I'm pulling apart the TPI unit for an injector swap. I'm finding the lower runner bolts not too tight. (it's not the 1st time someone was in there.) and certainly no way a torque wrench is getting is there when I put it back together.
I don't think there was a vacuum leak, the gaskets look good. No air streak marks. But I know they need to be tighter.

Do you TPI guys have a method of tightening the lower runner bolts ?

 

I tighten them by feel. They do loosen up a bit after a while as the gaskets compress.

 

I changed mine over to stainless hex head, and then a long hex head ball driver reaches at all angles with a torque wrench. Blue loc-tite on the threads so they don't loosen.

https://www.mcmaster.com/ball-end-he...x-bit-sockets/

 

What kind of a finish is on your runners & plenum ?? It's pretty.

 

Thanks. It's as close as I could get to the factory finish after some experimentation. After a good machine shop cleaning and surface prep clean w brake cleaner, I repainted them with Rustoleum Universal combination primer & paint in Titanium Silver (2 coats), then clear coated with KBS Satin Diamond Clear in multiple light spray coats.

 

fixed it for you

I believe that 'hex socket head' cap screws can also be purchased with a 'flange' option. Yours appear to use washers but maybe that's just 'optics'! It certainly is attractive! Black finished hex socket head 'flanged' seem to be out there!

 

I thought I was the only one looking for a factory finish. I started researching that cerakote stuff, but never got serious about it.
Does your paint job hold up ?? Did you have to scuff up the aluminum prior to painting ?

I also like the PVC hose routing. Is that factory? or you customized it? Please post up some more pictures. It's really nice.

 

Yes, the paint and clear is holding up really well, probably because the paint has primer properties to it as well as just color. Didn't have to scuff it, the factory finish is sort of a media-blast looking surface that takes paint well after prep. Just cleaned the surface as well as possible.

The valve cover vent hose is custom. The factory one is all rubber and it routes down underneath the injector wiring harness and gets smashed to hell by the valve cover flange and intake manifold castings (they have the fuel rail mount posts, etc.). That routing is pretty stupid in my opinion, the hose becomes inaccessible and can kink / crack / fail and you'd never know it until oil vapor and liquid are accumulating on your intake manifold from the broken hose.

So I got some stainless 3/8" brake line and cut the length I wanted, bent it slightly with a tubing bender, and put some beads on the end with a beading tool (so the hose stays on without clamps). Then I cut a new factory hose to the lengths I wanted just for the ends and the stainless pipe makes up the middle. It routes over the valve cover flange and wiring harness, and I can remove it / work on other stuff nearby much easier. The reason for the bend in the stainless is so that the factory hose bend near the valve cover is maintained - the bent steel raises the connection point up to the top of the valve cover.

Here is a pic of my version of this hose - 1/ in pieces prior to assembly, then 2/ installed so you can see the angle of the bend.





I'm not going for NCRS points, I just want my car to be running great and easier to work on. When I find something that I think can be done better I try to figure out a way to improve it.

 

You need to go into business selling that vent hose kit. I'll be your 1st customer.

 

I thought the factory finish on the intake was the raw aluminum?

That does look sweet.

 

Nah, just PM me your contact information / shipping and I'll make you one and send it. People on this forum have given me literally a metric ton of help. I'm glad to help others when I can.

 

You can use liquid pipe sealer with teflon on the intake bolts. This will hold the torque and also prevent any oil migration through the bolt holes that protrude into the lifter valley.

 

It is.


I had mine hottanked and media blasted to refinish and clean.

Re: the lower bolts, a swivel extension worked for me.

 

I would buy one also,,,

 

PM me your info, I'll make one for you also.

 

The runner gaskets, do you put them on dry ? spray adhesive ? any sealer ? Want to avoid vacuum leaks.

 

Dry.



Never had any leaks.

 

Same. You can put something on them....but IMO it'll just make it a messy, PITA to take 'em apart later.

 

Third vote for dry. They are made of some material that seems to squish a bit and turn somewhat soft-plastic in texture over time with engine heat. I think they're designed to work that way.

 

The 2 O-rings for the flexible Fuel hoses connecting to the Fuel rail. They do not come in the standard SK24 kit. Where do you get those 2 O-rings rated for fuel ?