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Has anyone removed their trans while the car is up on ramps? I would like to support the engine from above but dont think my bar support will work on a C4.
Has anyone removed their trans while the car is up on ramps? I would like to support the engine from above but dont think my bar support will work on a C4.
Have I Removed on ramps & Jack Stands NO but I have pulled Probably a 100 4+3s in my career, I really don't see why you shouldn't be able to as long as you get all 4 off the ground and your not to thick in the middle, it would be a young mans Venture I know my back wouldn't take to it well.
Things you might need, 4 Very Good Stands, as expected the tools and something that might make it easier a Motorcycle jack to lower & Raise the trans, or something like this https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...ack-61232.html
If you have a strong friend you could probably can do it to but I think you might feel it.
A good Floor Jack to get the car off the ground and a piece of plywood or board under pan to support engine if you wish, I have time to time let engine just sit hanging on the motor mounts but they were Newer cars and mounts where good and fresh.
I have heard of people bridging across the hood latch areas with 2x4s on there edge then slinging/chaining motor up, but if you have a Designed tool why not use it
Last edited by s carter; Jan 20, 2022 at 09:51 PM.
I had the back wheels on ramps and leveled the front with stands. It wasn't an issue. I yanked and and installed it on my back just pressing it up into place by hand but... it'd be smarter to do it with a jack and 2 people. I didn't support the engine because I had new poly mounts in it... it didn't budge nearly at all. I'd pull the distributor (or at least the cap) just in case it decided to kiss the firewall.
It's one of the few things on the car when you just get under and look matter it and go okay. The C-Beam nuts are annoying. But i have larger than average hands.
I have a transmission jack and have done a 240z and 61 imperial this way. Granted these are different cars but it worked ok. Guess i need to look at the clearance. How far back does the tranny have to go to get it out.
I have a transmission jack and have done a 240z and 61 imperial this way. Granted these are different cars but it worked ok. Guess i need to look at the clearance. How far back does the tranny have to go to get it out.
About the thickness of the pressure plate and flywheel... no more than a foot. I pulled the trans then pulled the bellhousing separate though which made it a little more interesting.
Once you have removed all the linkages and transmission cooler lines and wires remove 3of the 4 "C" channel beam bolts ( loosen the most rear bolt but don't remove) use it like a hinge, some people say remove the channel but it can be a bear to get back in. Just slide the channel around the side of transmission.(do Not Pry against Output shaft)
. Transmission will drop so have it supported. Then take out the bolts that hold the transmission to bell housing, the transmission will slide out with a giggle once your under the beam.
. To get transmission back just do in reverse, mount transmission into bell housing jack up until you're just touching beam take a pry bar slide the beam to side (do Not Pry against Output shaft) put it about an inch from tail shaft seal doesn't take much effort. Jack the rest of the way up beam will pop into position put beam bolts back in and transmission is secure enough to finish the installation.
Last edited by s carter; Jan 20, 2022 at 10:25 PM.
I just pulled my 700r4 using jack stands. I know you asked about the 4+3 but I would imagine the procedure is similar. The cheaper jack stands I had were too low, but I ordered a set of 12 ton jack stands off of Amazon which gave plenty of clearance. It wasn't fun but it wasn't terrible either. I had my brother help me out when lowering and raising the transmission just to help keep it stable. A second set of hands for that part would be helpful. I did use an additional jack stand to support the engine just under the rear of the oil pan to keep it from rocking and putting too much pressure on the motor mounts.
Just from curiosity, when you had the car jacked up on those 12 ton stands, did you use the frame rail jack points or nearby? Or did you use points elsewhere like the suspension / K-member / somewhere else?
Dont think it can be done on ramps. Like most cars the engine/tranny will need to tilt down. Straight back will hit the tunnel. Not enough up and down to get it out with the bellhousing. Not sure about removing the tranny without the bellhousing. If so I think the transmission jack with tranny should clear car.
Just from curiosity, when you had the car jacked up on those 12 ton stands, did you use the frame rail jack points or nearby? Or did you use points elsewhere like the suspension / K-member / somewhere else?
I found a nice pocket on the frame right in front of the rear wheels, and the frame rail just behind the front wheels. Here's some photos, but please excuse how trashy it all looks. I'm working on restoring this car that had been sitting for years before I bought it.
I found a nice pocket on the frame right in front of the rear wheels, and the frame rail just behind the front wheels. Here's some photos, but please excuse how trashy it all looks. I'm working on restoring this car that had been sitting for years before I bought it.
If you look in each of your photos you will see little arrows on the plastic trim pieces, they are markers for the pinch welds the cars Jack/Lift Points.
So you are technically on soft point's right now
what i did, was put a block of wood on each hood pin mount reciever pedestal, then a 4x4 across the top. removed the two rearward exhaust manifold bolts and replaced them with longer bolts. threaded them in until they bottomed out. then i used two wratchet straps, one for each side, from the 4x4 “gallows” down to hook on the bolt sticking out from the exhaust manifold. i believe i also wrapped a small wratchet strap around the 4x4 down to the hood pin perch to ensure no chance of rolling. ill see if i can find a pic
If you look in each of your photos you will see little arrows on the plastic trim pieces, they are markers for the pinch welds the cars Jack/Lift Points.
So you are technically on soft point's right now
i would not place jacks on the hz walls of the frame like that.
i only place the jackstands across perpendicular to the pinch weld.
i know of one c4 that was “soft” in the front locations and the jackstand we t through. it was east coast car that had corrosion issues.
It was so bad I took it off the road sold it for parts to a guy who put Driveline in a spare track car for practice laps.
. Don't get a car that started life in Wisconsin worked it way through Michigan taking a 12 year stop there before a final stop in Florida
Last edited by s carter; Jan 28, 2022 at 02:46 PM.
