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I read the speakers needs amps. The radio diesnt have one. That means you cant just replace them with any speaker and ecpect them to work, right?
Look for "replacement" speakers @ Crutchfield, they're low ohm resistance and made to work with the factory radio. They have only one brand "PowerBass OE-400" , try this link, https://www.crutchfield.com/g_51200/...rs.html?tp=102
$67.99 pr, 3 point mount.
Crutchfield is a true asset to those who have questions regarding what fits and what doesn't. I have used them since the mid 1970's and have been nothing but happy with my transactions with Crutchfield.
You can get adapters to fit more commonly sized, non-amplified speakers to fit. (You'd have to use a more standard stereo that doesn't use amps at the individual speakers.) I have these (and the matching ones for the rear speakers) for my 85, haven't installed them yet though: http://car-speaker-adapters.com/items.php?id=SAK073.
I believe people have mounted 6×9 speakers in the rear without adapters.
To be honest I gave up on the Bose stuff in my 84 a long time ago. I put in an aftermarket head unit. Then I made some adapters out of sheet aluminum that let me mount 6 1/2" speakers in the doors after removing the Bose boxes and amps. Then I put factory size speakers under the dash pad. Then I replaced the rear Bose stuff with a set of 6x9's. I used the head unit to power the dash and rear speakers and I put a small Alpine amp under the seat for the door speakers. I can actually hear the radio with the top off now. I 3d printed speaker grills for the doors that look pretty good too.
All of this was fairly inexpensive and the sound quality and level is way better now.
Yup 6x9s fit fine without adapters in the back. I think I put 6.5s in the front and they fit just fine after removing the bose box. I bought some sort of adapter, but honestly it was cheaply made enough that I couldve made something out of cardboard almost as well.
The bose boxes are a bit of a pain in the *** to get out, but they will come out.
You can get adapters to fit more commonly sized, non-amplified speakers to fit. (You'd have to use a more standard stereo that doesn't use amps at the individual speakers.) I have these (and the matching ones for the rear speakers) for my 85, haven't installed them yet though: http://car-speaker-adapters.com/items.php?id=SAK073.
I believe people have mounted 6×9 speakers in the rear without adapters.
I have a set of the front adapters from them and they fit 6.5" speakers in my 85 without issue. I was able to get 6x9s to fit in the stock rear brackets with some creative mounting hardware, but without drilling or cutting.
How do you keep water off of the speakers with those adaptors? This is one reason stock autos use plastic shells. The doors are not hermetically sealed.
I have seen in the past many have just Stripped out the insides of the Speaker/Amp Box and Cut and adapted the face to meet their new Aftermarket Speakers.
How do you keep water off of the speakers with those adaptors? This is one reason stock autos use plastic shells. The doors are not hermetically sealed.
I would assume the main reason the stock speakers are sealed are for acoustics and the amp. There are plenty of car door speakers that are not totally sealed up. I did want to keep water from dripping on top of my speakers though, so I went with a set of these Boom Mat speaker baffles and just cut the bottom of it out.
I went through this process on my 85, here's what I found...
The factory bose radio head sends a signal at 1 ohm to each corner, where an amplifier bumps it up significantly to the bose speaker. You cannot just replace the speaker as it is a custom size, and any other speaker doesn't sound good....I tried putting a 6x9 to the leads just to see if it would work....not good. Ditch the whole setup. Head unit, boxes, all of it out. You can fit two 6x9s in the rear without adapters assuming your 6x9 speakers have slots to allow a little slip. I put a foam between the body and my speaker, and a speaker ring to the grille. You can snip the connector on the amp side when you remove the box, and solder on the + - leads to two little connectors and cap the power leads. The head unit I replaced with a single din JVC digital media receiver with a c4 corvette dash kit. Everything hooks in nice and easy, and behind that, I have a Kicker KEY200.4 amplifier behind the dash that goes to the speaker leads.
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Originally Posted by ACMX92
I would assume the main reason the stock speakers are sealed are for acoustics and the amp. There are plenty of car door speakers that are not totally sealed up. I did want to keep water from dripping on top of my speakers though, so I went with a set of these Boom Mat speaker baffles and just cut the bottom of it out.
To you and Mixnutz (and others using front speaker adapters): Two questions:
1) Are the speaker adapters (as linked by MixNutz (above) STURDY enough to avoid "buzzing"? (How about door internals for that matter)?
2) Did you cut out the bottom (reduce the depth) of the "Boom Mat Baffles" because they are too deep for our doors? (If not, why).
Bonus question: What's the max depth you can install using those door speaker adapters? Can it be deeper if you make a DIY version that sits flush with the door panel (vs where the somewhat recessed OEM baffle sits)? If you say it can be deeper, let me (and the forum) know if you're talking about moving the speaker baffles above the surface of the interior door panels?? (Maybe that creates better sound -- by not "crowding" the outer door skin so much?) Ok, 1 more: Is dynomat required for 6.5" speakers (on the inside of the door skin) to avoid vibration?
Unfortunately I haven't gotten around to installing my new speakers yet. I've been busy with LS swapping the tow rig and that took much longer than I had hoped...
I am planning to get them installed this winter though. I'll make sure to make a thread when I do it.
To you and Mixnutz (and others using front speaker adapters): Two questions:
1) Are the speaker adapters (as linked by MixNutz (above) STURDY enough to avoid "buzzing"? (How about door internals for that matter)?
2) Did you cut out the bottom (reduce the depth) of the "Boom Mat Baffles" because they are too deep for our doors? (If not, why).
Bonus question: What's the max depth you can install using those door speaker adapters? Can it be deeper if you make a DIY version that sits flush with the door panel (vs where the somewhat recessed OEM baffle sits)? If you say it can be deeper, let me (and the forum) know if you're talking about moving the speaker baffles above the surface of the interior door panels?? (Maybe that creates better sound -- by not "crowding" the outer door skin so much?) Ok, 1 more: Is dynomat required for 6.5" speakers (on the inside of the door skin) to avoid vibration?
THANKS!
I can answer a little of this (I think). I didn't take measurements back when I did this so I can't give you exact dimensions. But what I can say is that all I did was trim the fiberglass on the door speaker hole just a little. Then I cut two speaker adapters out of 1/16" thick aluminum. I cut a square that was 8"x8" I believe. The adapter had a hole in it for my new speakers. I riveted this piece to the fiberglass door. The speakers were just off the shelf basic 6.5's. I didn't use shallow or marine speakers because there was plenty of room. Now I didn't use the factory covers. I 3D printed a set of covers. I didn't use any Dynomat or anything like that. I get no rattling and they sound great. In hind sight I wish I would have used a better speaker. But these are fine. I