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if you are leaving the intake manifold on the engine to clean it, ive not done this. mine have always been so nasty that i remove them to really get after them. the cleaning agents i use i would not want to get on other engine components which i would fear is what happens if i did it on the car
if you are leaving the intake manifold on the engine to clean it, ive not done this. mine have always been so nasty that i remove them to really get after them. the cleaning agents i use i would not want to get on other engine components which i would fear is what happens if i did it on the car
Fair enough. I was tempted to takeoff the intake manifold but I’m running into a time crunch. Original objective was replace old/worn sensors/ components while getting the car running correctly. Most of the system is original from 1987.🥸 Had some time during winter. Thought I would learn some and give her a bit of a refresh while getting her back on the road. Spring will soon be here and I still need to replace belts/hoses, service tranny, change diff fluid, and replace pads/rotors. And sort out some sketchy looking vacuum line routing. Need to find someone with similar year C4 so I can take pics for reference/comparison. Better get crackin…..
as far as i can recall, pot metal parts: thermostat housing, all accessories and their mounting brackets. i dont touch the accessories with any even heavily diluted acid as im not sure it would be good inside the part. for brackets and tstat neck, i have used a very weakened acid and it allows it to come clean, but if left to dwell on part, it seriously dissolves the part. mottles and dulls it.
muriatic is waaaaaaaay stronger that the retail products above. it will work. id suggest after cleaning u will want to dip the parts in a base, baking soda water, to stop the reaction.
I work in the Marine industry and we use a product called Aluma Bright. Its basically watered down Muratic Acid that we water down some more. The last time I bought some Muratic Acid at Home Depot I was so disappointed at how weak it was I pretty much just used it straight. Didn't even smell strong.
I work in the Marine industry and we use a product called Aluma Bright. Its basically watered down Muratic Acid that we water down some more. The last time I bought some Muratic Acid at Home Depot I was so disappointed at how weak it was I pretty much just used it straight. Didn't even smell strong.
thnx for commenting. my last purchase of muriatic was at a place called canadian tire up here. i poured a cup of it into my dishwasher and ran it on the wash cycle. it absolutely cleared out the scale and cleared out the house too. it was very strong smelling!!
but if its all the same if watered down enough, then i will absolutely try it. I have a tpi intake i will be sparkling up and will give it a go.
i know a guy who used it on his engine bay in general and it caused the metal to flash rust. which was the basis for my comment about doing it on the aluminium prts while off the car.
Well here’s the latest on rescuing the lil’ red vette. Plenum and intake runners cleaned/brightened. Throttle body thoroughly cleaned. Top of intake cleaned. Fuel rail cleaned/ O-rings replaced. Brand new fuel pump installed. Brand new FPR installed. New thermostat and coolant temp sensor installed. Removed old fuel injectors. They look ROUGH!! Looking at a set of rebuilt flow matched Bosch lll from FIC. Planning to replace fuel filter and IAC, service auto tranny, and change oil while waiting for injectors.
Here’s where I could use help. My FPR was not connected directly to the plenum. It was connected to a smaller vacuum line running toward the front of the engine. (?) I would really appreciate pictures or clear information that will help me insure vacuum lines are set up correctly. I’ve purchased new vacuum line to replace old/rotted sections.
Took a break from my ‘87 rescue project to work on my back patio/ fire pit project. Time to get back to it and get Little Red on the road. Received Bosch lll injectors from FIC, changed oil, and auto tranny filter/fluid. Found source of tranny leak. Stripped tranny pan bolt hole. Helicoil? While I have her up, planning to drain old coolant and replace knock sensor/coolant lines. Then replace old vacuum lines before installing injectors/fuel rail so I can connect fuel lines to check for leaks and correct fuel pressure.
It’s been a journey of learning and discovery but I’m hoping to get her rolling in the next 2-3 weeks. Spring is here…..🥳 Any suggestions regarding new brake pads/rotors? Thanks guys🙏🏼