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Hello
I’m working on a set of brake cooling inlets for my c4
Here is the left side, almost finished:
These are 3d printed from PLA and glued together. The printer has a 210x210mm bed so I can’t print directly large parts. If anyone is interested they I’ve posted the files for free download. As you can see they lower a bit the ground clearance but I wanted a larger scoop area.
Hello
I’m working on a set of brake cooling inlets for my c4
Here is the left side, almost finished:
These are 3d printed from PLA and glued together. The printer has a 210x210mm bed so I can’t print directly large parts. If anyone is interested they I’ve posted the files for free download. As you can see they lower a bit the ground clearance but I wanted a larger scoop area.
This is a neat idea. Have you tried these out of PETG yet? I would worry that the PLA would break down from UV light over time. Also do you plan on attaching any kind of ducting to them? I wonder if they would be more effective if you attached some sort of pipe to direct air directly on the caliper/rotor.
I love it when people 3D print parts for these cars. So far I've made door speaker grills, a flex fuel sensor mount, and drill jigs to drill holes for direct port nitrous.
I've never done this but in the owners kit you get with the 90- 95 ZR1 they say to remove the two outer air deflectors to improve brake cooling . Center has to stay for directing air to radiator and intake . This is what they recommended for tracking your car on a road coarse .
I've never done this but in the owners kit you get with the 90- 95 ZR1 they say to remove the two outer air deflectors to improve brake cooling . Center has to stay for directing air to radiator and intake . This is what they recommended for tracking your car on a road coarse .
I thought of that but I think this should bring a lot more air into the center of the discs and it’s pretty easy to do it. I hanged the plastic frame in front of the display of my computer and drawn it by hand. Previously I tried to take measurements and draw it and I spent a lot of time with pretty poor results.
Yes, I’ll use ducts. I’ll try a tube used for collecting wood dust in wood cutting tools. I can use racing ducts but these should work and are transparent and look better.
I’ve printed parts from Petg but they don’t look that good. I got better results with PLA. I keept the can under a cover and UV light shouldn’t get there. Also I could use a paint to protect it. The cover has some PLA rings and a string goes through them. But they are blue and should reflect more UV. they are now like a test to see what happens
Yes, I’ll use ducts. I’ll try a tube used for collecting wood dust in wood cutting tools. I can use racing ducts but these should work and are transparent and look better.
I’ve printed parts from Petg but they don’t look that good. I got better results with PLA. I keept the can under a cover and UV light shouldn’t get there. Also I could use a paint to protect it. The cover has some PLA rings and a string goes through them. But they are blue and should reflect more UV. they are now like a test to see what happens
PLA is easier to print with for sure. But if you can get the hang of using PETG it makes way stronger parts. Although Esun PLA+ makes a great Glock 17 but for car parts PETG seems to hold up better.
This is an old picture but these arms I printed for my chickens are what I used to learn how to print with PETG. These were only done with 20% infill.
Here is the nozzle that will direct the air to the center of the brake disc
They were printed of ASA( similar to ABS). Will see if this plastic is stable enough when exposed to higher temperatures. They can be wrapped in aluminum foil for a little bit more protection but I expect them to get no hotter than 60-70C. They will be suspended of the car chassis. This means they will be protected by vibration from the wheels.
The nozzles arms are too long and wobble which makes them interfere with the lower control arms. I’ll try a shorter arm and higher clearance. they were too low anyway. the second option, is to tie them to the control arms using zip ties and some small spacers.
here is one nozzle attached to the lower wishbone. On the other side I have the nozzle suspended like in the previous images but it’s a shorter and thicker arm.
Anyway I think PETG would be a better plastic but we’ll see how long this ASA can hold.
the plastic holds well, both versions (nozzle hanged by arm from chassis and nozzle tied to the lower arm) didn’t have any problems. On the race track I had cheap, street pads (like $40 per f/r) and on heavy braking there is brake fade when braking after long straight lines making them dangerous. I’ve switched to willwood pro matrix f/r, now they are on the car but I didn’t test them. I’m currently waiting for an engine swap so it’s going to take quite a while. the car has been sitting for over one year now as the shop where I’m going to do this is too busy and most avoid working on these cars.
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Brake cooling
