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So I went under the car earlier this week to re-secure my bleeder line. Much to my chagrin I looked over at the base of the inspection cover on the bellhousing and saw that it was wet on the inside . Pulled the inspection plate and ran the car on jack stands to be 100% sure and yep, RMS was oozing. Good news was the back of the flywheel was bone dry.
I had a NON leaking RMS when I did my clutch job, so I assume I screwed up the installation. I have a new National 4359V seal to put in (same I already put in, and when I pulled the prior one (should have left it!) appears to have been what someone else had put in prior that wasn't leaking). Just to 10000% confirm, that is a brown elastomeric Fluoroelastomer(i.e. rubber-like) seal and NOT teflon? I have some assembly lube I am going to use to aid in not screwing this up a second time...I am also going to put some RTV around the outside which I did not the last time (this seal slid out much more easily than the old one, could be just because it had just been done or perhaps it wasn't as tight as it should be).
I have the PVC pipe I used prior (but admittedly I think I still got it a little crooked before seating it fully in the housing, which I believe is what toasted it), and plan on starting the seal by hand first then using the PVC pipe to push the seal in by hand much more slowly and carefully (and only light taps with rubber mallet/fist if needed). Should the seal be pressed ALL the way until it bottoms out in the housing or should it be flush with the front face?
Any other suggestions?
Some pics:
Eeek. Note that it appears front flywheel contamination may come from the flywheel bolts weeping from the back side. View of hub
Part 2:
When I pulled things apart I discovered my new RAM bearing had thrown grease around onto the PP housing. I have been emailing Mike at RAM and it could be normal for the bearing to throw some due to excess grease. However there was enough that Mike suggested it’s not a bad idea to swap it out while it’s apart. Not sure how many people pull their clutch back apart after only 2-300 miles or so, so perhaps "normal" but not noticed.
EDIT: Mike Norcia is great to work with, he still thinks it could be completely normal but is sending me a brand new bearing under warranty today, awesome! He also suggested to recheck my clearances as I might be able to remove a shim now that the clutch is broken in and therefore have additional clutch life, cool!
PICS:
Huh? Believe this rubbed off of the PP housing when removing. Some of the grease wiped off of the PP Back side of bearing Inside of bearing
I did some more reading... it looks like my #1 mistake was driving the seal all the way into the housing until it bottomed out...it should be flush with the housing (the seal was not folded over and nothing looked deformed)... With that straightened out I think I will give this another go soon. Any issue using a very thin coating/smear of gray "right stuff" around the outside of the seal (I have some leftovers in a tube)? Probably unnecessary but thought it might be a good idea and wouldn't hurt...
I don't like using a hammer on Rear main seals. A few years ago I made a tool by cutting out the center of an old flex plate and welding it to a piece of steel tubing. That way I can press it in evenly using bolts and have full control.
So I was inspired by RWDsmoke and the Kent Moore tool to create this frankentool…. It worked well!
4 inch sched 40 pipe inside sched 40 cap, pushed flush. The cap hits the housing right when the seal is flush so the seal cannot be pushed too far in. Top view with 7/16-20 4 inch bolts through a steering wheel puller Seal seated fully (carefully adjusted as went and cranked until cap flush) Flush. This better not leak!!!! Little bit of RTV on outside of the seal before installing and some assembly lube on the inner seal lip.
If the seal is rubber encapsulated, which that one appears to be, it's not necessary to use a sealer. However a little RTV is like chicken soup. It can't hurt.
I do have one criticism, however. Please, when working with mechanical things and machinery take the jewelry off! No good can come from having that ring on your finger while you're working, and if nothing else, it will just get scratched up.
If the seal is rubber encapsulated, which that one appears to be, it's not necessary to use a sealer. However a little RTV is like chicken soup. It can't hurt.
I do have one criticism, however. Please, when working with mechanical things and machinery take the jewelry off! No good can come from having that ring on your finger while you're working, and if nothing else, it will just get scratched up.
Thanks! I agree on your comment, sound advice. I have been taking it off when I am doing things where I might whack my hand on something etc... but sometimes I forget. It's worse than getting scratched (it won't), it's tungsten carbide...so if I were to injure my finger badly, I could be in a situation where the ring won't come off, it cannot be cut off and that leaves some pretty gruesome options (although it can be shattered). I had a recent situation where I did hurt my ring finger and immediately pulled the ring off (not working on the car) just in case...it scared me enough that I plan on getting a silicone wedding band etc... and only wear the real one when I go out.
RMS fail and more
. Pulled the inspection plate and ran the car on jack stands to be 100% sure and yep, RMS was oozing. Good news was the back of the flywheel was bone dry.
