What is the best vendor to get a 383 kit from? I would like to do the install this summer and Im trying to get some info now. What about price? Does it consist of crank rods and pistons or just a crank kit? Do you have to change the balancer and flew plate or is it balanced for the orig parts?
Thanks for any help!

Dave :chevy

 

I would first decide what you want the engine to do. You cold build a 383 to be anything from 350hp to a fire breathing monster 600+ hp with juice, a turbo, or SC. You have to know what you want it for and what you want out of it.

After these are decided, then talk to people that *know* what they are doing. People that *run* ETs they say their engines are capable of (if its gonna be a street/strip car). A VERY reliable setup that has been I'm sure hammered to eternity on the strip and most likey on the street it Beach Bum's. I would consult with him on what components, etc. Then build to as close to his specs as possible. I just said this in another post. The difference between a good engine and a turd is a well matched up set of components. Ones in which compliment one another throughout. Unless you want to be a pioneer of unchartered waters, have tons of money, not to mention time. Find something that is proven and copy it. Otherwise, be ready to be disappointed time and time again, both in the wallet and ET/HP department.

Building an engine is something many of us enjoy doing the first time, but when things don't work out after countless hours invested, becomes VERY annoying and frustrating. Save yourself the latter and do it right the first time.

I will be the first to admit, I know nothing about designing a killer setup. I was fortunate enough to run into Corkvette1, who has a great running car and was willing to help me out. My first question to him was HOW the heck did you get that thing running so good. His reply was: Years, and years of building engines and finding out what works and didn't. He further explained...how many people go out into the unknown when everything that is going in my new engine or corks is readily available to anyone. He doesn't have any specially made components. But the key is they are all VERY well designed for one another. Something I would bet 1 in 100 engines built experience. The ones that are out there are the ones to jump on and find out what makes them tick.

Good luck! :cheers:


[Modified by ski_dwn_it, 1:17 PM 1/2/2003]

 

Dave, email me off the list....

LPDesRoche@direcway.com

 

Thanks for the info ski down it.
Having built and raced Buick Grand Nationals for years, I to have seen many coimbos that had alot of high dollar parts, but didnt match and therefore didnt work much better then a stocker. I brought my 87GN from a 14.3 ET stocker to a 10.9 street car driven to and from the track. This was done by research test and tune weekends and networking with fellow board members.
After rereading my post, it did sound like a hopped up teenager with his first car. I have been building and racing for about 20 years with the first 12 years working with small block and big block bowties. The last 8 years have been with the buick camp.
With that said, my intention for the car is a very dependable pump gas driver that will run deep into the low 12s or high 11s on the motor, and low 11s to high 10s on the bottle. I dont expect or want to be there now. For me most of the fun is the progression to the goal, not getting there over night. My first mods are going to be 373 gears 2800 converter and exhaust. Im hoping that will get my into the 12s this year.
The 383 kit may be my winter project.

Lee,
I will email you off line.
Thanks

Dave :steering:

 

Lee,

After reading your last post I would definately get in touch with Beach Bum. His combo from what I remember a lower compression 383, I'm pretty sure with a SR, 219 cam, and 190 AFR heads with 1 3/4 headers. He is running mid 11's N/A...so with on the juice it would easily hit 10's.

Sounds like you have the mechanical ability, that is the other BIG variable between engines. :yesnod: :lol:


[Modified by ski_dwn_it, 1:48 PM 1/2/2003]

 

Scat makes some very reasonably priced stroker cranks. If your going to be using N2O and run into the 10's you may want to look into a forged crank. I know of quite a few mid 11's sec cars using cast stroker cranks (Beachbum was using a cast Scat crank) This places sells good quality kits for reasonable prices http://www.flatlanderracing.com/

You will also want to do some research to make you have all the right parts. When I was looking to do a 383 I wanted a 1 piece rear main seal, forged pistons, forged 6.0" rods and an internally balanced crank. What out for some place selling cheap kits, a lot times they are using 400 crank with a 2 piece rear main seal which requires adapter, special flywheel, and notching of your front crossmember to fit properly.

 

i bought my kit at allen motorsports in Dallas Texas....Tim Allen (no, not the toolman) has taken GREAT care of me in my endeavor and i am truly pleased with the customer service he has provided!
send me an IM or email and i will give you his contact info!
the parts i have are in my sig.....you also need to think about internally balancing......because of the limited space by the rack and pinion you can only get a certain size balancer so i think you NEED to have it internally balanced....although i could be wrong...don't quote me on that!



[Modified by 85_togo, 3:48 PM 1/2/2003]