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Hello all,
My 92 c4 has an oil leak at the timing chain cover which is dripping into my MSD opti cap. Is there a way to get the crankshaft hub off and pressed back on without removing the engine. Any thoughts
Thanks Danny
I just went through this on my 92 and you can remove it without lifting the engine or unbolting a motor mount. You remove the balancer from the hub. To do this, I think it was 3 5/8s bolts you remove first. Then you'll need to loosen the power steering line that goes into the rack that is right in the way. The line has a curve in it, but still not enough clearance for a puller to fit in there. I then used a 2 jaw puller to get the balancer off the hub. I used a cheap socket to keep the point of the puller centered on the crank head bolt and to protect that bolt. You don't remove the crank hub bolt yet. I saw some advice where people just pound the balancer off the hub. NEVER do that. You risk bearing damage smacking on the balancer. Once the balancer is off then you remove the hub from the crank. I bought 3 bolts that were the same thread as the 3 that hold the balancer to the hub that were 2 1/2" long. I used the old style puller that looks kinda like the old atari logo. It has 4 holes, one on the bottom and then three on the other side. The next trick was getting a bolt small enough to fit into the crank hub bolt hole and small enough to clear the crank hub as it is being removed. I had a long skinny bolt in my scrap drawer with a 1/4" or maybe a 5/16" head. I used a socket over that to keep the puller bolt centered. I was sure to keep checking as I think I even had to use different length bolts as it was coming off and you run out of bolt length.
To reinstall I made a pressing tool basically using large washers on a long threaded shaft. An old slide hammer puller set I have came with the right thread long all thread that I was able to use. Use a really large washer, 2 or 3 for strength. Slide the balancer hub on the crank (after figuring out the alignment - its in the FSM). Gently tap it on a little to get it set. Screw the all thread all the way on. Slide the washers on. Get nuts that are the same thread and use those to press the hub on the crank. I used 2 so that when you're done you can get the all thread back out. The balancer pressed on the hub using the 3 bolts tightening each one a little at a time very easily.
One other area to look out for an oil leak there is the front of the intake manifold. There's no gasket on the front and rear top of engine oil intake manifold to engine valley. It is prone to leak. It must be sealed with black RTV.
Topfuel67 thanks for your incredible detailed instructions and your immediate response. I apologize for not responding in turn. I'm not doing the work my mechanic is working on car. He wants to remove engine thats why i asked the question and sought out other options. I am replacing the intake Manifold gaskets and using "The Right Stuff" sealant for the china wall. That's when he noticed the oli leak at shaft. Unfortunately he is dead set on doing it with engine removed afraid he may break something doing repair in car. So I won't be replacing timing cover gasket . Thanks again