LT1 Engine Install Advice
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 155
Likes: 36
From: Cleveland Ohio
LT1 Engine Install Advice
I have the LT1 out of my '96. Trying to put it back in but the engine keeps getting sandwiched--I can't get the front of the engine low enough because I can't get the balancer by the steering rack. I can't move the engine any farther back to clear the rack because the flywheel is up against the transmission bellhousing. I need maybe a 1/4 inch more wiggle room and it will go down enough to get the flywheel under the bellhousing and back in to place. The steering rack has some kind of rivet in the exact spot I need clearance. Unreal.
My question is: would it be easier to loosen the bolts on the steering rack to gain the clearance by moving it forward - or loosen the transmission from the C beam and try to push that back? I didn't need to unbolt the C Beam to get the engine out so it's all in place and the trans supported by a jackstand. Could I loosen the C Beam bolts (but not remove) enough to wiggle the trans back enough?
My question is: would it be easier to loosen the bolts on the steering rack to gain the clearance by moving it forward - or loosen the transmission from the C beam and try to push that back? I didn't need to unbolt the C Beam to get the engine out so it's all in place and the trans supported by a jackstand. Could I loosen the C Beam bolts (but not remove) enough to wiggle the trans back enough?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 155
Likes: 36
From: Cleveland Ohio
I thought about that. Engine is fully dressed as it came out. Would have to take off the new water pump off to get to the balancer. Wasn’t thrilled about doing that. But it might be easiest.
I thought it was a pain to get the balancer on/off with the engine in place?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 155
Likes: 36
From: Cleveland Ohio
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,348
Likes: 289
From: MA
That little rivet/plug on the rack prevented me from removing my very first Optispark because the balancer was jammed against it.
So I ground that rivet/plug down almost flush with the rack tube with my angle grinder. Now I have no more problems removing the balancer.
So I ground that rivet/plug down almost flush with the rack tube with my angle grinder. Now I have no more problems removing the balancer.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 155
Likes: 36
From: Cleveland Ohio
You have an auto? Did you remove the C Beam bolts or just loosen? I was trying to avoid dealing with the c beam and taking the trans cooler lines off.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,270
Likes: 118
From: N. Babylon NY
My car (1992) is a little different. I have a 4L80 (auto) with a fabricated "C-Beam". I left it connected on the transmission side and unbolted it on the rear side. My C-Beam does not bolt to my rear as I have a cross member before the rear axle (9" solid axle). When it was stock it was much easier, so the procedure is the same. I have steel braded lines for the cooler and left them on. I also did it with a ZF 6 speed and removed the trans at that time. As another member suggested-you can remove the damper. The hub stays on. Its 3 bolts with plenty of room to reinstall (if you are using a stock damper). I would try that first.
Last edited by STEVEN13; Jul 6, 2022 at 10:14 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,969
Likes: 242
Did you get your LT1 back in?
With so little additional room needed, consider removing the 3 bolts that hold the balancer to the hub. That has to be the easier path vs the steering rack.
Like others, I too used the happy hooker. I’m sure you could accomplish the same with a load leveler.
With so little additional room needed, consider removing the 3 bolts that hold the balancer to the hub. That has to be the easier path vs the steering rack.
Like others, I too used the happy hooker. I’m sure you could accomplish the same with a load leveler.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 155
Likes: 36
From: Cleveland Ohio
Yes-it's finally back in. I took off the balancer and it wasn't too bad to get in. I put the balancer back on while the engine was still attached to the hoist since there was a little extra room to work. I also ended up having to take the motor mounts off and put them in the engine bay, then finish lining up the engine and trans. I think when I put the trans on the jackstands it dropped lower than I had thought--I ended up needing to jack up the trans a decent bit to line up with the engine. All in all it wasn't too bad considering I worked alone. Thanks for all the advice.
Now I just need the ARH headers to show up haha. Really excited to put those on and do a tune.
Now I just need the ARH headers to show up haha. Really excited to put those on and do a tune.
