Rear wheel stud replacement question
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Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 63
Likes: 7
From: Lubbock, Texas
Rear wheel stud replacement question
92 vert, notice one lug is missing on the rear hub. Do I have to remove the hub to replace the stud? I have searched and found both answers but figured Id ask here to get the "real" answer
thanks
thanks
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,394
Likes: 2,741
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 18
Likes: 3
From: Royal Oak, MI
I had to do this a few weeks ago when I got new tires. I did the Tire Rack mobile installation (which was great, by the way), and the tech warned me in advance that one of the lugs was cross-threaded and if he should proceed, to which I said yes. I mean, I really wanted my new tires. Of course the stud snapped.
I know it's probably not proper regarding the hub/bearings - but a little PB Blaster, a lot of heat, a big hand sledge with a large punch and it came right out. Drawing the new one in with a few bolts and a lug was painless.
YMMV. Good luck.
I know it's probably not proper regarding the hub/bearings - but a little PB Blaster, a lot of heat, a big hand sledge with a large punch and it came right out. Drawing the new one in with a few bolts and a lug was painless.
YMMV. Good luck.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 2,778
Likes: 580
From: Langley BC
No you don't.
here is the solution:
get a piece of heavy walled pipe that is wider than the retained part of the stud. Cut it to like 1inch long.
then use a c-clamp to push the studs out one by one rotating the hub so you can get them out.
it's easy.
here is the solution:
get a piece of heavy walled pipe that is wider than the retained part of the stud. Cut it to like 1inch long.
then use a c-clamp to push the studs out one by one rotating the hub so you can get them out.
it's easy.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 6,228
Likes: 698
From: Clifton Park, NY ............Clearwater, FL ... 85 Original Owner
I had to do this a few weeks ago when I got new tires. I did the Tire Rack mobile installation (which was great, by the way), and the tech warned me in advance that one of the lugs was cross-threaded and if he should proceed, to which I said yes. I mean, I really wanted my new tires. Of course the stud snapped.
I know it's probably not proper regarding the hub/bearings - but a little PB Blaster, a lot of heat, a big hand sledge with a large punch and it came right out. Drawing the new one in with a few bolts and a lug was painless.
YMMV. Good luck.
I know it's probably not proper regarding the hub/bearings - but a little PB Blaster, a lot of heat, a big hand sledge with a large punch and it came right out. Drawing the new one in with a few bolts and a lug was painless.
YMMV. Good luck.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 6,119
Likes: 1,994
From: St. Charles MO
I agree you don't have to remove the hub. However, I would do it with the C-clamp press method DMITTZ outlines here instead of the giant-hammer way. The hammer could put some serious forces on the wheel bearing inside that sealed hub. Normally that wouldn't be a big deal, and I've hammered out my share of wheel studs. However, on a C4 the original bearings aren't very robust and all available replacements on the market today are even worse. So to me, it makes sense to try to take care of the bearings in your car as best you can, and the press method will spare them any shock loads.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 1,767
Likes: 648
From: USA
For me it's always been a couple short blips of the air chisel (pointed attachment) on the end of the stud, out in a second! Then some big flat washers (at least one) to make sure I'll have threads all the way until the new stud is seated and to shield against galling, some anti-seize on the threads of the new stud and a sacrificial lug nut to draw the stud home with an impact! Of course, if I have the clearance to use the air chisel on the back side of the hub to install the stud, I might do it that way, just depends on the vehicle and it's design/setup.
However, if the new stud does not immediately start to draw through the hub using the impact, it's time for the C-clamp and pipe piece to press it in. But more than 9 times out of 10, using the anti seize reduces the friction enough to protect the threads from pulling, rolling or galling.
Finally, rarely but every so often, yes it's time for HEAT combined with the methods above and as a last resort....the BFH!!!! To me it's about how sanitary the method and results are, combined with speed/timeliness (but not the point where speed compromises the integrity of the components)👍
However, if the new stud does not immediately start to draw through the hub using the impact, it's time for the C-clamp and pipe piece to press it in. But more than 9 times out of 10, using the anti seize reduces the friction enough to protect the threads from pulling, rolling or galling.
Finally, rarely but every so often, yes it's time for HEAT combined with the methods above and as a last resort....the BFH!!!! To me it's about how sanitary the method and results are, combined with speed/timeliness (but not the point where speed compromises the integrity of the components)👍
