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I managed to turn a routine fuel filter change into a royal pain in the ***...I need some guidance to get me back on track.
I removed the old filter (spilled some fuel, but not bad). I then started to install the new one, which became quite a bit difficult to get the threads started on the engine side...then on the tank side. Anyway, after getting gasoline all over my left arm and some pretty nasty chemical burns, I managed to install the filter and put everything back together.
I turned the key on to check for leaks and sure enough...it leaked. I loosened up both ends on the filter thinking I may have cross-threaded, retightened everything and is actually leaking more now.
- I have the right Purolator filter
- I took a picture of the engine-side threads, and they look good and in place
- However, I did find an o-ring on the floor. I assume it came from one the the lines?
..... You need to put new O-rings on both ends of the filter pipes ... O-rings are not included with new fuel filters ... its best to use the brown ones as they are for fuel systems and are made of Viton rubber ... you can find them in assortment packs in the "Help" section of your local chain auto parts store ... they won't have a listing for fuel filter O-rings because the O-ring is part of the hard line assembly .....
I know you can buy the orings separately. I did the last time I changed my filter. I forgot the #. Bought at a chevy parts counter. Dan PS EDIT: Yes, they were brown.
The Box parts stores (auto zone. NAPA and so on) most of the time have them hanging on the Motor Mite/Help wall. If you're unaware of this it's a verity of all odd parts like door handles, "O" Rings and so on
Most any auto parts vendor should be able to change the OE/GM # 22514722 to whatever they sell. Don't do generics from multi-packs. It actually shouldn't be very expensive from a dealer or 'local' ACD Jobber.
As the others have said, new o-rings. It doesn’t matter how tight you make it it will leak, the o-rings are the sealer (it’s not a tapered/compression fitting seal). I forget what the fitting/seal name is but I’m sure someone here knows.
You can pinch off the line at the tank and that will help with preventing some of the gas spillage.
I forget what the fitting/seal name is but I’m sure someone here knows.
.
Sealing for later fuel and other fluid systems for GM are GM/Saginaw. It's important to use appropriate seals for all Saginaw style connections. No generics!
Confession time: I was a bit overconfident embarking on this task. I researched some, but only to figure out the location of the filter. I should have dug a bit deeper. The o-rings never crossed my mind. Also, I didn't vent the fuel tank by removing the cap. There was a lot of pressure in there aggravating the fuel spillage. My left arm looks like it was exposed to the Texas sun for 12 hours straight. It's red and it's is still burning. My phone wreaks of gas too.
One word of caution: Skip pulling the pump fuse... Go ahead and disconnect the battery altogether. Fuel will be spilled regardless, and the vapors will be in the air. You are in VERY close proximity to the starter, which is hot wired to the battery. If a wrench comes in contact with the starter solenoid cables and crates a spark, the results will be catastrophic.
Confession time: I was a bit overconfident embarking on this task. I researched some, but only to figure out the location of the filter. I should have dug a bit deeper. The o-rings never crossed my mind. Also, I didn't vent the fuel tank by removing the cap. There was a lot of pressure in there aggravating the fuel spillage. My left arm looks like it was exposed to the Texas sun for 12 hours straight. It's red and it's is still burning. My phone wreaks of gas too.
One word of caution: Skip pulling the pump fuse... Go ahead and disconnect the battery altogether. Fuel will be spilled regardless, and the vapors will be in the air. You are in VERY close proximity to the starter, which is hot wired to the battery. If a wrench comes in contact with the starter solenoid cables and crates a spark, the results will be catastrophic.
Again, thank you all for the help.
Ric
I've changed my filter a number of times and also played with the fuel line in that area, converting it to stainless braided line. I also experienced gas running down my arm, getting under my gloves and burning the skin. I remember one time I was using an old incandescent trouble light and the gas was everywhere including on the bare light bulb which was smoking. Not the smartest thing I've ever done. Even though it takes and extra minute or two, clamp or disconnect the fuel line coming out of the tank. Looking back at what I did, I'm glad I didn't fry at the time.
I've changed my filter a number of times and also played with the fuel line in that area, converting it to stainless braided line. I also experienced gas running down my arm, getting under my gloves and burning the skin. I remember one time I was using an old incandescent trouble light and the gas was everywhere including on the bare light bulb which was smoking. Not the smartest thing I've ever done. Even though it takes and extra minute or two, clamp or disconnect the fuel line coming out of the tank. Looking back at what I did, I'm glad I didn't fry at the time.
I did the exact same thing when I was young. The gas hissed as it hit the hot bulb. I've always considered that to be the closest I've come to dying.
Fuel Filter Change Issues
