power stop cross drilled rotors
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 1999
Posts: 6,839
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From: Louisville,KY
Cruise-In I Veteran
Cruise-In II Veteran
Re: power stop cross drilled rotors (C44ever)
A few questions:
If drilled rotors are better for stopping for street use, why are not all cars, at (least the high peformance cars, Corvette etc.) equipted with drilled rotors from the factory?
At what tempature does this dreaded outgassing occure? Cold, normal operating temp, or extreme race track temps? If it only occures at high temps why would a street car (or high performance SWIFT) need drilled rotors, except for aesthetics?
How much of this hyperbol on this thread is just people parrioting the advertizers :bs ?
Rember: the late, great E.F. said, " What is behind you is of no consequence",
If drilled rotors are better for stopping for street use, why are not all cars, at (least the high peformance cars, Corvette etc.) equipted with drilled rotors from the factory?
At what tempature does this dreaded outgassing occure? Cold, normal operating temp, or extreme race track temps? If it only occures at high temps why would a street car (or high performance SWIFT) need drilled rotors, except for aesthetics?
How much of this hyperbol on this thread is just people parrioting the advertizers :bs ?
Rember: the late, great E.F. said, " What is behind you is of no consequence",
The answer is......$$$ :yesnod: They look to cut expenses every way they can. :yesnod:
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,876
Likes: 764
From: Sligo PA
Re: power stop cross drilled rotors (CorvetteZ51Racer)
Sorry about snapping at you corvettez51racer. I had a bad job interview and was mad and snaped at you, sorry. Anyway yes I did change my pads with my rotors but used the same as before. Your right about that guys swift being easy on brakes it's his driving thats not. I think he has been through 3 sets of pads now. Oh well. I will say one very bad thing about cross drilled rotors. You can't turn them. You have to buy new ones insted of having them turned. That sucks
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,861
Likes: 4
From: Houston TX
Re: power stop cross drilled rotors (Phobos84)
Phobos, it's cool. No hard feelings at all. We all have our bad days...I myself am tired because I found out today that I have to miss a bunch of grad school classes in a couple of weeks for a trip related to my research, and I don't know how in the world I'm going to have time to do my takehome tests that need to be worked while I'm out of town, as I will be working 12-15 hour days while I'm out of town :(
Anyway, I must admit that I'm surprised about the improved braking with the drilled rotors and new (but same compound) pads. I myself have never had luck with the rotors, as have all of my friends...of course, I'm HARD on brakes....ever know anyone who could make a 2400lb, 280hp Porsche 911 race car with Brembo Turbo brakes fade to worthless on a 65 deg day? :reddevil I've also managed to burn my stock rotors a wonderful shade of blue...I think the Z06 guys call it Electron Blue
Anyway, I must admit that I'm surprised about the improved braking with the drilled rotors and new (but same compound) pads. I myself have never had luck with the rotors, as have all of my friends...of course, I'm HARD on brakes....ever know anyone who could make a 2400lb, 280hp Porsche 911 race car with Brembo Turbo brakes fade to worthless on a 65 deg day? :reddevil I've also managed to burn my stock rotors a wonderful shade of blue...I think the Z06 guys call it Electron Blue
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 1,803
Likes: 1
From: PA
Re: power stop cross drilled rotors (Zora)
Zora,
I'm not sure what significance we should attach to the fact that your drilled rotors lasted 3 years. My mother's non-drilled 9" rotors on her '79 Mustang are still original too...that's 23+ years! If you want to see how your rotors last under performance duty, I'll gladly borrow them for a single weekend. Figure on ordering a new set monday. ;)
Some folks notice the "initial bite" with drilled or slotted rotors is better. I'm not sure why lighter pedal pressure is better, unless you have a muscle disease or similar handicap. A minivan or Cadillac can almost toss passengers thru the windshield with a quick brake tap. Sensitive brakes and light pedal pressure is not "better". Use your leg muscle to apply brake pressure, as needed. I can apply adequate pressure to engage ABS anytime and anywhere with solid rotors.
[Modified by Rick93Z07, 10:54 AM 1/9/2003]
I'm not sure what significance we should attach to the fact that your drilled rotors lasted 3 years. My mother's non-drilled 9" rotors on her '79 Mustang are still original too...that's 23+ years! If you want to see how your rotors last under performance duty, I'll gladly borrow them for a single weekend. Figure on ordering a new set monday. ;)
Some folks notice the "initial bite" with drilled or slotted rotors is better. I'm not sure why lighter pedal pressure is better, unless you have a muscle disease or similar handicap. A minivan or Cadillac can almost toss passengers thru the windshield with a quick brake tap. Sensitive brakes and light pedal pressure is not "better". Use your leg muscle to apply brake pressure, as needed. I can apply adequate pressure to engage ABS anytime and anywhere with solid rotors.
[Modified by Rick93Z07, 10:54 AM 1/9/2003]
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,861
Likes: 4
From: Houston TX
Re: power stop cross drilled rotors (Rick93Z07)
I agree with Rick on the brake modulation. If you're doing any sort of performance driving (and I do recognize the fact that the person who started the thread isn't racing the car) is you want to have as much control over the car as possible. Yes, you definitely want enough bite to utilize the full capacity of the pads, rotors and tires. BUT, you want to have enough resolution in pedal feel to be able to dance on the brakes and gas to drive a car through the turns. It is VERY hard to be smooth on a track with lightswitch power/throttle response, and lightswitch brakes. Mine are relatively soft up top...they do work just fine, they just require more pressure before they really bite...and that's the way I like them. It's also nearly impossible to heel-toe downshift if you have lightswitch brakes.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,178
Likes: 2
From: Windermere FL
Re: power stop cross drilled rotors (CorvetteZ51Racer)
The only company that makes good drilled rotors is BAER and their Eradispeeds. They cost but they give you an improvement over stock. Drilling isn't prefered. The pro racers have gone to slotted for improved performance and gotten away from drilled. Also, no maker will warranty against cracking. If it happens, you pay for it. As to performance, a better rotor will improve your performance. The drilling does nothing. Most people who say they have better braking have it because the rotor is better to begin with. Check with VBP and other reputable brake guys and autocrossers. Drilled are good for show but not for performance increases. You'd get much larger performance increases from better pads or calipers than from a drilled rotor vs. the same rotor that isn't drilled. :yesnod:
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,861
Likes: 4
From: Houston TX
Re: power stop cross drilled rotors (92TripleBlack)
I've never used the Baer's myself, but I have heard they are good. The Brembos are also good, but again, you will pay $$$ for them. And even in race conditions, the Brembos are definitely not immune to cracking...it just takes longer.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 893
Likes: 0
From: Liberal Kansas
Re: power stop cross drilled rotors (CorvetteZ51Racer)
I will reply to the above post. I have the Baer system and have been to a couple of open track events and several Auto Xs. I always check the rotors after the events for stress crack where the holes are drilled. Every thing has been fine but last week I put new pads on and went out to bed them. I use a infrared temp gun to monitor rotor temps so I dont overheat the rotors. When I got home for the cool down period i checked the rotors for cracks and i believe i have few small hair line cracks on the outer holes of the rotors where most of the people say they will appear when you use cross drilled rotors. I can post pics when I get off work tomorrow to see what everyone thinks.
I forgot to say that the open track events I went to i did not beat the car all that hard. I am new to all this and took it easy compared to others and I have brake ducts to the fronts
[Modified by Rob90, 7:55 AM 1/10/2003]
I forgot to say that the open track events I went to i did not beat the car all that hard. I am new to all this and took it easy compared to others and I have brake ducts to the fronts
[Modified by Rob90, 7:55 AM 1/10/2003]
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,733
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From: Sarasota FL
Re: power stop cross drilled rotors (CorvetteZ51Racer)
Quote:
Just because Winston Cup uses something doesn't make it smart...they use roller tipped rockers which is pointless (seen the reason behind this on a Spintron using Hendrick's and Penske valvetrains) You're talking about a racing body that decides to race 3400 lb cars on 10" wide tires at 200 mph...
The Cup cars at Martinsville provide some of the most severe braking conditions in all of Motorsports. I would think that if slotted rotors hold up there, they will work any where.
Just because Winston Cup uses something doesn't make it smart...they use roller tipped rockers which is pointless (seen the reason behind this on a Spintron using Hendrick's and Penske valvetrains) You're talking about a racing body that decides to race 3400 lb cars on 10" wide tires at 200 mph...
The Cup cars at Martinsville provide some of the most severe braking conditions in all of Motorsports. I would think that if slotted rotors hold up there, they will work any where.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 1,803
Likes: 1
From: PA
Re: power stop cross drilled rotors (92TripleBlack)
I have not used Baer, but I watched a buddy burn a pair of their fancy 2 pc blue hat slotted rotors to the ground in 1-1/2 days, while driving fairly conservatively. He was on the cell phone on day two and Baer's tech dept was making countless excuses (wrong pads, wrong fluid, improper break-in etc). I believe they cost close to $600 and the damaged replacement disc sections were on backorder and "triple" the cost of my aftermarket OEM spec Aimco/Koni rotors. For reference, his previous set of OEM GM rotors lasted one season...about 7 events!! Unlike typical replacement rotors that carry a 90 day to 2 year warranty, the Baer rotors are sold AS-IS.
In general, big Baer brake setups are excellent. They sell wider and/or larger rotors that can absorb more heat and provide better cooling. However...be aware that fancy replacement rotors from Baer (or any other brand) designed to fit the marginal OEM brake configuration provide little or NO benefit.
In general, big Baer brake setups are excellent. They sell wider and/or larger rotors that can absorb more heat and provide better cooling. However...be aware that fancy replacement rotors from Baer (or any other brand) designed to fit the marginal OEM brake configuration provide little or NO benefit.
