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My timing tab is all rusted. I can't see the #'s. Is there a picture so I know where I'm at ?
also, the car is all factory. Current timing with the EST disconnected the balancer cut is straight up. No where near the timing marks. Car runs too good for this to be accurate.
Do these balances move ? My rubber looks dry rotted, but the car runs too good for there to be any problems.
I don't think there's any differences in the years but yes the balancer absolutely does spin. If it runs good I'd say don't mess with it, but that's hypocritical cause that's a problem I have hahaha. What's making you want to check the timing? Plus if it was really off by 20-30 degrees as the balancer would supposedly be if it was off that much, the engine wouldn't run very well at all. The best way of checking for TDC is raising the piston to the top of the cylinder and making sure that both the valves are closed on the #1 cylinder. Even then there's still +/- 5 degrees difference from TRUE TDC. But it'll give you a good indicator how off the balancer is.
Don't over think it if it runs good! If you want some more positive affirmation, please do post a video of it and we'll take a look!
I replaced the distributor, but I indexed it exactly as the OEM was. The orientation was perfect. Can runs fine. But I just put a timing light on it to get it perfect, and the hash mark is at the 12 o'clock position. Not 2pm mark looking down at the motor.
I replaced the distributor, but I indexed it exactly as the OEM was. The orientation was perfect. Can runs fine. But I just put a timing light on it to get it perfect, and the hash mark is at the 12 o'clock position. Not 2pm mark looking down at the motor.
Are you sure you can't just clean it off? I hit mine with a wire brush and it was perfectly readable.
This is an F-body, so the front of the motor is different. Hard to get in there. But that is not my problem now, the timing is way off, or the balancer is slipping.
and yes, with the EST disconnected.