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have a good set of internal and external torx drivers on hand. I believe the rotor is a t5 and the cap retaining screws are an e6, but it the number might be reversed. I had to trim the handle on the t driver to get it to fit and shave some of the bevel from the e driver to get it far enough in the cap holes.
The biggest PITA about the job IMO is getting all the coolant when it comes splashing out the various hoses on the WP.
[QUOTE]Yeah, I did the wires about 2 years ago. I wish I would have pulled the opti and changed it. How hard is it to get the balancer off?
Bill[/QUOTE
THE BALANCER IS EASILY REMOVED BY TAKING THE THREE BOLTS OUT THAT CONNECT IT TO THE HUB ON THE CRANK. THE OPTI IS CLOSE TO IT BUT IT CLEARS. THIS WILL SAVE YOU TIME VERSES PULLING THE HOLE THING WITH A BALANCER PULLER. THE HOLE JOB IS PRETTY STRAIGHT FORWARD. AFTER REMOVING THE WATER PUMP YOU WILL HAVE A CLEAR SHOT TO ALL THE BOLTS CONNECTING THE OPTI TO THE BLOCK. THE TIMING IS NOT ADJUSTABLE AND THE SHAFT IS INDEXED SO IT CAN ONLY GO IN ONE WAY. I WOULD REPLACE THE WATER PUMP INLESS IS HAS VERY LOW MILES. MY CAR HAD 88K AND THE ORIGINAL PUMP WAS FINE AND NOT LEAKING BUT I REPLACED IT ANYWAY. MY LUCK IT WOULD START LEAKING THE NEXT WEEK AND RUIN MY VERY EXPENSIVE OPTI.