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Ok, so in my other thread my 8" balancer is barely touching the K member....I finally checked the motor mounts last night and I can definitely move the passenger side one (and about 10 years ago when I got them one seemed loose, but didn't give it much thought - always listen to your gut)....so anyways, I looked at the FSM and seems changing both is doable in the car. Advice?? Brand recommendations? Should I go poly? I didnt at the time thinking there is no reason for it, but now I'm reconsidering it.....
Thanks
Your gen motor mounts are traditional clam shell style.
After removal. Drill the tack weld. Install new mounts. Secure clam shell with a screw.
You will find plenty of pic vid resources.
Not a C4 but installed poly MMs in 3 TAs.
no issues to report.
** I believe exhaust heat, factory OR aftermarket
Temps break down both gen MMs
*I discovered both of my 94 LT1s specific MM deteriorated. I purchased 1 set new when 1 dropped in my 383 i discovered that aftermarket MM was breaking down. I currently designed and made 3 - 1 Crmo MMs. I can Adj the height in 1/4 increments, make solid, or.. currently trying a 1" poly puck combo
Last edited by THE 383 admiral; Oct 10, 2022 at 03:38 PM.
I did my 86 twice, just jack up the motor one side at a time enough to take the weight off. The first time I used OEM mounts. After about ten years they were sagging enough that I couldn't get the serpentine belt off the pully. I went with poly about eight years ago with no problems.
Your gen motor mounts are traditional claim shell style.
After removal. Drill the tack weld. Install new mounts. Secure claim shell with a screw.
You will find plenty of pic vid resources.
Not a C4 but installed poly MMs in 3 TAs.
no issues to report.
** I believe exhaust heat, factory OR aftermarket
Temps break down both gen MMs
*I discovered both of my 94 LT1s specific MM deteriorated. I purchased 1 set new when 1 dropped in my 383 i discovered that aftermarket MM was breaking down. I currently designed and made 3 - 1 Crmo MMs. I can Adj the height in 1/4 increments, make solid, or.. currently trying a 1" poly puck combo
Love to see pics of that being adjustable, that's cool..
I did my 84 in car. Wasn't too horrible. I used prothane iirc. I supported the engine by the oil pan with a 4×8 (car was on ramps). Not the best idea but wasn't horrible. The prothane bushings are on the harder side. It tightened up the feel of the front end in a way... engine not moving around as much on loading and unloading made it feel better when you got on it.
I’d like a good aftermarket engine mount for the earlier C4, either urethane or solid mount. Or perhaps front motor plate kit of some sort. Any guidance/help would be appreciated.
I usually dont bash anyone, so im not going to, so this is more of a FWIW thing.
Went to suspension.com (was referred to them) and on the site it showed 2 inserts, and 6 nuts, 12 washers, and 6 bolts in the description "whats in the box". Shows it made by Prothane.....Like $60 bucks..Ok, ordered....In my order email it shows the part number and the tracking # (got it in a few days, so thats good)...I received it yesterday, and its ONE insert and 3 zip ties made by Energy Suspension......i looked up Prothane and Energy suspension part numbers, and yes, its 60 bucks for TWO inserts with hardware if you buy the Porthane ones, and its 60 bucks for ONE insert and 3 zip ties if you get the Energy Suspension ones....WTF.........So i emailed the company and told them i feel a bit deceived, but i ordered a second one from them (no choice at this point)...And they need to fix the website and pictures as that is VERY deceiving..See what happens. The company was great though as far as emails and shipping goes - ill give them that...
When putting the whatever new mounts back in I recommend this. Don’t tighten the mount to frame bolts until after you get the long through bolt slid through. Sometimes you need every bit of wiggle room to get things lined up.
When putting the whatever new mounts back in I recommend this. Don’t tighten the mount to frame bolts until after you get the long through bolt slid through. Sometimes you need every bit of wiggle room to get things lined up.
Finally got the new mounts yesterday after the company sent the wrong one 1st. They are made by Prothane. Well molded, but we shall see. I might tackle this on Sunday, will post pics, and hope this solves the issue.
Getting ready to do the job...when I jacked hoist up just a little (until I felt a little pressure), I can now fit a business card between balancer and k member. So hopefully this does the trick.
Passenger side looked ok, but rubber very flexible. Drivers side. Looks twisted..... Drivers side. Looks twisted..... New Prothane inserts. Fit perfect. Happy with them and definitely recommend them....ill show more of the job soon for reference. Hope this fixes it, but definitely looking like this was the issue with the drivers side being this twisted.
If anyone wants to know, these are from suspension.com...they are Prothane, was like 70 bucks shipped for the pair. But here is some advice.... Dont drill the rivets out. Its alot easier to grind the heads off from this side with an angle grinder...took 5 mins tops. Then just use a punch to push the rivet out... I used stainless hardware but the bolts in the kit are plated so up to you...but anyways, lightly put a smear of grease in the metal shell, both sides..Then put 3 3/8 bolts in the mounting holes before you tighten the 3 5/16 bolts up. Tighten them up in a pattern until all are fully compressed. This keeps the 3 mounting holes straight and even. Finished. Old twisted one and new one. Also they install from the top down in the car in case you didnt know.
Well, got the new ones in last night. I now have clearance again between the balancer and the K member.. Today is going to be 70 up here, so i might try to get the car out for another run.
Changing motor mounts
