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Has anyone taken apart the engine oil cooler thats located on the out side of the motor between the oil filter and the motor? My rebuilder says it's a good idea to rebuild it or take it apart and clean it but, I can't locate it in any of my manuals.
Anyone have any experience with this?
Thanks
I've never taken it apart, but I've had it off the engine to put it on another one. Coolant flows through it, not sure how much could get gummed up in there.
Has anyone taken apart the engine oil cooler thats located on the out side of the motor between the oil filter and the motor? My rebuilder says it's a good idea to rebuild it or take it apart and clean it but, I can't locate it in any of my manuals.
Anyone have any experience with this?
Thanks
I think it is not rebuilable...IE not openable. When I had a motor come apart (broken rod, piston, etc), I replaced mine, as I could not guarantee that it was clean. The passages are small, and metal could be trapped in it. It was not cheap to replace (actually I considered it expensive), but if you have circulated ANY metal through your oil system, I would replace it!
Thanks for the pic's scorp. This brought up a question or two. Did you replace your oil cooler hoses with new ones, and if so where did you find them?
Are you going to put your motor in the way it is with the H2O pump and hoses on?
Thanks for the pic's scorp. This brought up a question or two. Did you replace your oil cooler hoses with new ones, and if so where did you find them?
Are you going to put your motor in the way it is with the H2O pump and hoses on?
I actually didn't buy any new ones, I just cleaned up what I had. And yup, that engine dropped in with the hoses on like that. :)
How much did you give for your new(?) oil cooler? The dealer quoted me $300.00. Can this be bought after market?
I didn't get a chance to see what was actually wrong with my motor. The dealer told me after 15 min of diagnosis time that I had a spun main bearing. Don't know how much if any metal was involved.
Do you think that it could be back flushed and if this would be effective?
I think you should consider going with a real oil cooler. Get rid of that Modine oil warmer. You can get a very big B&M cooler for less than $100. Then you plumb the lines up to the area in front of the radiator where you mount it. Screw a plug into your block when you take out the coolant line running to your old cooler. Get the nice Morosso oil cooler adapter that replaces the Modine warmer plate. You will see huge drops in oil temps. It might make your engine last longer this time. I got my cooler from Doug Rippie but the B&M one looks about the same. I had a heavy equipment truck hydraulic hose place custom make me the hoses because I hate those braided hoses with the Aeroquip fittings. These hoses were actually less expensive and I think better.
Don't forget to get a good road race oil pan while your at it. Your engine will thank you. Good Luck.
Sorry, my mistake. I saw the bottom pic but thought that since I didn't see the filter in it, that you did something else with it (didn't see the threads without my glasses).
So you call it a oil warmer. Why? I'm being told that it's an oil cooler.
The original cooler that came on the Z51 package was made by Modine, this is the cooler that you have I would think. It circulates coolant from the engine through and this is supposed to take the heat out of the oil. Most people that run with this type of cooler see oil temps get pretty high when running hard. That's why they are affectionately refered to as "oil warmers." With my cooler I almost always have the oil temps stay about where the engine temps are, rarely above 210 degrees when running hard on a hot day.
:cool: Super nice setup. Does the stock filter extend below your pan? The 7.5 qt pan on my LT4 looks similar to yours and I like the stock location better than finding space for a remote filter mount. I'm adding the oil cooler when my rebuild is done. Thanks, Paul
I used to use a Delco PF35 and that doesn't hang lower than the pan. I now use Fram HP4 filters and they don't come down lower than the pan either. My pan is an 8 qt. http://www.champpans.com. It is very comparable to the Canton pan and much less money.
I think you should consider going with a real oil cooler. Get rid of that Modine oil warmer. You can get a very big B&M cooler for less than $100. Then you plumb the lines up to the area in front of the radiator where you mount it. Screw a plug into your block when you take out the coolant line running to your old cooler. Get the nice Morosso oil cooler adapter that replaces the Modine warmer plate. You will see huge drops in oil temps. It might make your engine last longer this time. I got my cooler from Doug Rippie but the B&M one looks about the same. I had a heavy equipment truck hydraulic hose place custom make me the hoses because I hate those braided hoses with the Aeroquip fittings. These hoses were actually less expensive and I think better.
Don't forget to get a good road race oil pan while your at it. Your engine will thank you. Good Luck.
[Modified by Bob86ZZ4, 11:43 AM 1/9/2003]
[Modified by Bob86ZZ4, 11:45 AM 1/9/2003]
If you put that cooler on make sure that you monitor the oil temp and it doen't get too cold which can be just as bad as too hot!
A good point. During colder weather I put a piece of cardboard in front of the cooler and run a bungee cord around to hold it in place. And I don't ever stomp on it till the oil gets warm.