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I'm preparing to send my 1989 L98 block to the shop for cleaning, etc. I've gotten it down as far as I can with the tools I have, so a few questions:
Do I need to remove the oil cooler? If so, how? That nut is shallow and huge; what size and should I use (buy) a wrench or socket? I know, seems a silly question but that nut is so shallow, I feel I've got one shot to get this right.
I haven't removed the cam bearings; cheaper to rent the removal & install tools or have the shop remove (and install new)?
Do I need to remove the three screw-in plugs (oil?) and the large press-in plug in the back (around the rear of the cam)?
There are also three plugs around the front of the cam but they look like they're press-in. Leave them be?
Any other advice? Although I've toyed with building it to a stroker, I've decided to stay stock with the bottom end so I bought an Eagle rotating assembly (nearly stock but with +7 piston head, original is +5).
The cylinders are nearly perfect so I'm just going to give them a light hone. The coolant galleys all have light rust but nothing flaking. My thought is to just ask them to hot tank and replace the cam bearings (also need them to press the pistons/rods).
Leave it alone with the exception of the cooler. Let the machine shop determine the cylinders shape dependent on your pistons. They can remove/install cam bearings before you finished ordering a tool. Most of your aftermarket rotating assemblies will not use pressed-pin pistons/rods.
Leave it alone with the exception of the cooler. Let the machine shop determine the cylinders shape dependent on your pistons. They can remove/install cam bearings before you finished ordering a tool. Most of your aftermarket rotating assemblies will not use pressed-pin pistons/rods.
I would have to see an image of what you are describing....I assume you are talking about something along these lines - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/e...hoCYUEQAvD_BwE
Here is a good video worth the watch since you will be at that stage soon...
What I figured...yeah, remove it yourself as the machine shop will have to before it's cleaned. Sometimes parts like that go missing. If you stick with the kit you already have make sure you take a piston with you so they can determine if your cylinders are within spec.
They do offer a 383 rotating assembly which uses a 5.7 rod. None of the usual grinding or cam oddities and makes for a stout street engine. That is what was in my El Camino the evening this picture was taken...
Last edited by HandOverFist; Nov 4, 2022 at 10:30 PM.
Rich, thanks for the Vizard vid and the suggestion. I chose a +7 because I want to make room for aggressive lift in the future with pump fuel. I'm sticking with the 113 heads and going to have them flowed and upgrade the valves, springs, etc when I upgrade the cam down the road. I'm in the PRC (People's Republic of California) so I'm constrained on exhaust and ECU. I'll likely find my optimum headers before I make any changes to the the heads or cam. As it is, the stock 113 is at least 80% efficient and with flow I can probably achieve an 84% at 6.00 lift, so I've got plenty of room to play in the top end by choosing this +7 piston. I'm sticking with the TPI and targeting light-to-light and cruising; I'll never visit a strip or compete. And I'm not bothered by the press-fit; floating is one more thing that can go wrong (IMHO) so I'd rather pay the ~$50.00 to have them pressed by a pro. ...and I've already got my kit sitting in the garage.
But I really appreciate the guidance!... Thank you! If nothing else, airing my thoughts and getting these suggestions helps me to to iron out my plan. Very much appreciated.
What I figured...yeah, remove it yourself as the machine shop will have to before it's cleaned. Sometimes parts like that go missing. If you stick with the kit you already have make sure you take a piston with you so they can determine if your cylinders are within spec.
They do offer a 383 rotating assembly which uses a 5.7 rod. None of the usual grinding or cam oddities and makes for a stout street engine. That is what was in my El Camino the evening this picture was taken...
Love it! Yeah, I was toying with a 377 stroker but in the end thought that I'd rather do that with a spare engine once I've got the car 'drivable'. More of a holistic approach for now and then push the envelop once I've ironed out the rest.
Rich, thanks for the Vizard vid and the suggestion. I chose a +7 because I want to make room for aggressive lift in the future with pump fuel. I'm sticking with the 113 heads and going to have them flowed and upgrade the valves, springs, etc when I upgrade the cam down the road. I'm in the PRC (People's Republic of California) so I'm constrained on exhaust and ECU. I'll likely find my optimum headers before I make any changes to the the heads or cam. As it is, the stock 113 is at least 80% efficient and with flow I can probably achieve an 84% at 6.00 lift, so I've got plenty of room to play in the top end by choosing this +7 piston. I'm sticking with the TPI and targeting light-to-light and cruising; I'll never visit a strip or compete. And I'm not bothered by the press-fit; floating is one more thing that can go wrong (IMHO) so I'd rather pay the ~$50.00 to have them pressed by a pro. ...and I've already got my kit sitting in the garage.
But I really appreciate the guidance!... Thank you! If nothing else, airing my thoughts and getting these suggestions helps me to to iron out my plan. Very much appreciated.
I would recommend a SuperRam setup for your car. It’s street legal in California and will really wake up whatever cam you choose. I ran one for years in California and it was great for either street or strip.
I would recommend a SuperRam setup for your car. It’s street legal in California and will really wake up whatever cam you choose. I ran one for years in California and it was great for either street or strip.
@383vett any recommendations on where to find a SuperRam?
Prep for machine shop
