I am upgrading my cam to the hot cam and wanted to go to nitrous in the future. Do the standard "don't go over 100 shot parameters" still stand when using this cam on a stock botom end motor. Just motor I am looking to get about 330 rwhp so I guess that would be about 430ish on the gas. Can the pistons take this or are you asking for trouble at the level...

 

First off nitrous dosent kill a bottom end, rpm does. There is a chain of damage with nitrous. The frist thing that nitrous will destroy are plugs. If not plugs then Exhaust valves then intake valves, then pistons, then bearings. Rings are in with the pistons. As far as 100 shot. I read a test a while ago that said that you can put 150 shot to a stock 350 V8 before you start to melt stuff. I have run a 125 shot on a stock engine for a year. I'm now running a 150 shot with stainless valves, forged pistons and Clevette 77 race bearings. In picking a cam to use with nitrous just pick a cam you want. Unless you plan on running nitrous a lot. The only thing you can do in a cam to help nitrous is to have higher exhaust lift and duration to help vent the burnt nitrous.
Hope this helps

 

mmmmmmmm nitrous! love it! :steering:

 

Nitrous oxide is the best thing since sliced bread :yesnod:

 

I just completed my set up. See mods, I had stainless valves and some minor porting on the intake and exhaust heads. You are correct on your HP estimates I gained an additional 33 rear wheel with the cam, 1.6 rr etc. Just in the break in period now, but shortly looking to put down a few C5's at the strip. I have 330 rear wheel and about 110 additional with TNT 100 shot.
:cheers:


[Modified by red-y, 11:22 AM 1/11/2003]

 

My LT's should be here in the next few days. So I will be getting started on all this shortly.. I did talk to some people about the supercharging option but that would be worth about 360rwhp and an outlay of about 5k cash.

I think the 330rw with the cam and headers will be enough for everyday with the n2o kick when needed. Besides I want to do this in stages and this provides the best gains for the budget


[Modified by Ruby6spd, 9:14 AM 1/13/2003]

 

I would disagree with this. RPM does not kill it when Nitrous is in the mix. Detonation does. Yes, you are right when it comes to the "chain", unfortunately, that chain can be completed from start to finish in less than 2 seconds.

To answer the question, the 100 hp shot is still pretty safe, but you will probably want to upgrade your fuel pump just to be on the safe side.

 

Most of the time when something goes wrong with nitrous in a street car using a smaller nitrous system you will lose one thing that leads to another. For example. I installed a 50 shot dry on a friend of mine car (4 cyl) Anyway I didn't know his number 4 injector couldn't keep up with the extra fuel we tried to push through it. It melted the plug in #4 and a piece of the plug took out the exhaust valve. No damage to piston or walls. So it's not to say your going to destoy everything in that list it will just be in that order. Remember there are always exceptions. My comment about rpm had nothing to do with nitrous. Even without nitrous rpm is what kills a bottom end. You right detination is never good but rpm is the main factor in bottom end damage. If your not overreving the engine your not doing damage in most cases.

 

FWIW, I know of nobody using a 50 shot of nitrous on a Vette. Most start with a 75 and end up at 100-150. With a 100 you will most likely see more of the blown plugs, etc. At 150 you will see cracked ring lands and blown rings before you can react to a plug problem. I still disagree that the main factor in bottom end damage is RPM. I have never had a problem in my bottom ends (many of them) due to RPM, but have had several due to Nitrous and detonation. I will agree that in NA applications that RPM is the #1 killer, but add nitrous to the list and RPMs don't come close. Considering that this question is posed in the Forced Induction/Nitrous section, you pretty much have to rescale your variables a little.

:cheers:

 

Vette92, what fuel pump are you using, and plugs. Also, did you retune your chip for NOS? My 396 needs more power and I am considering 150hp shot, progressive style.

 

I am using two Walbro 340's in the tank, one feeds through the stock line, the other through an additional 6an braided line that attaches to the drivers side rail. You could feed it with just a single Walbro 340 though.

As for the programming, my car is tuned for NA performance. You do not have to tune specifically for Nitrous. Some do, but usually that is only the guys who run their cars down the 1/4 only and no where else. The only component that would be wise is a timing retard box. The MSD Digital 6 has one built in for Nitrous. I run a 6AL and the MSD timing control on top of it because the MSD Digital 6 had not hit the market when I installed mine.

For plugs, I have run both the Autolite 103 which is 2 stages colder, or the Autolite 104 which is one stage colder than stock. Stock is a 106. I have also run NGK TR55's but they were not the right heat range for Nitrous. The TR6 is what is suggested I believe. Mine seems to like the Autolite plugs though and I change them once or twice (if not more) a year. Usually just as an excuse to tinker on the car, or I have them off for something else and might as well throw some new ones in while I was at it. Normally they will last a year or two anyway depending on milage. They are all copper core plugs.

If you want a progressive shot, the only suggestion I have is to stay away from the Jacobs Nitrous Mastermind. When it works I guess it is great, but when it doesn't it is really lame. It is about a 50/50 whether you get a working one. The one I tried I tol Summit to send me one that works or refund my money and they refunded my money without question.

Chris

 

Your right about the Nitrous Mastermind. The first one I got wouldn't open the nitrous solenoid at all. I called them and they said sometimes a capasitor is faulty and it is covered under the warenty. I drove back to Summit Racing and swaped it for another one and it has worked great for over a year now. Best mod I think I ever put in my car. You just have to find one that works right. But think about it this way. It is the most inexpensive nitrous controller out there. Usualy $180-240 depending on place so I guess you get what you pay for.

 

quote = "don't go over 100 shot parameters"

why is this such a big deal, I have 3 friends that have 2 LT1's and and LT4, they all run 175 wet shot on a stock car and run high 11's with the LT1's and the LT4 ran a 11.15 with 175 shot and minor mods. they all have been running it like that for over a year with no probs so why not go over 100 :confused:

 

Everybody knows somebody getting away with the larger shots, but for every 1 getting away with it, there are 3 others rebuilding there motors because of it. Depends which side of the equation your luck sits.

 

I run 150 only on grudge matches. I had done this several times with good results.... actually 150 is very addictive. do use it!!! not because your car cannot handle it.. but because it is like "Crack" addictive, addictive addictive. I am going through withdrawl just pilling down to 100! THE power IS NOT THE SAME :cool: :cool: To be honest, if you have all the safey feature, Fuel cutoff switch, 93 octane, RPM activation/deactivation switch, proper retard, cold plugs etc... It may not save you but it really helps you from making mistakes. 150 is fine if you use it in moderation... My car has 108k


[Modified by 92LT1Roadster, 2:28 PM 2/12/2003]

 

Nitrous is not the Killer!!!! Running it lean will eat any piston up! just some words from NOS Tech Direct! :D and now you know! :flag