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I was just wondering irf anyone has had a 4 wheel alignment done lately? What can I expect to pay for it? I stopped by a place today and inquired, and he told me that their lift is not made to get a corvette on it so they will not even attempt it. He alsosaid that it would prolly run around $200.00. Does this sound about right?
That's a reasonable price. These cars actually take some time to align up front with the old-school shim method. They aren't difficult, but a bit time-consuming.
You can get a set of toe plates and if you have a level driveway or garage or shop floor, little bit of basic alignment knowledge, you can do a potentially better alignment for less than it costs to get the alignment.
It doesn't measure Caster quite so easily, but the best way to set caster is based on driving dynamics/behavior. And after everything is aligned, and then you change caster, you do need to re-check-adjust toe and camber.
Price sounds reasonable (maybe a little high). I would advise you to check and ensure that all of the bolts are tight after the alignment. Specifically, get and check the torque on the rear lower camber bolts. Most shops don't know the correct spec for tightening them. Without being sufficiently tight, they will loosen and the cam will shift, altering the alignment. I can't remember it off the top of my head but it is around 150 ft-lbs. I had a situation on my 86 where I made sure to tighten these on the car after the alignment, unfortunately, I didn't think to check the front nuts, which were not tightened and the shims fell out.
About 3 years ago I had a four wheel alignment done at a local shop that had a Hunter laser machine and knew how to use it. I think it was about $150.00 at the time. I did replace all four original tie rod ends with quality greaseable units before. I tore apart one of the original lifetime greased tie rod ends and all there was was a little small pea sized piece of dried grease. I would not spend the money with quarter century old tie rod ends still installed. Dan
I am getting this alignment because I have replaced all bushings with Superpro and have also installed the rebuilt rack from Turn One with new inner and outer tie rods.
Definitely look around your area for a hotrod shop or speed shop. When I was looking to get my alignment after replacing all of the bushings and tie rods on my 86, a national shop quoted over $500 to do the 4 wheel alignment. I got lucky and my tuner suggested a local tire shop that races their own car. I had a chat with the owner and he told me they do many C4 corvettes every year. For $125 they fixed me up in less than an hour. They even asked if I wanted daily driver, spirited driver or race car set up. I went with the spirited set up.
I found a highly recommended alignment/autobody shop that does a lot of older corvettes. He tells me prolly around 149.00
If they are close to you, that's great. If not, you aren't all that far from St. Louis and I would strongly endorse Solo Performance Specialties. Dave Whitworth runs that shop and he can align a C4 correctly, to any spec you ask for.
If they are close to you, that's great. If not, you aren't all that far from St. Louis and I would strongly endorse Solo Performance Specialties. Dave Whitworth runs that shop and he can align a C4 correctly, to any spec you ask for.
The shop I talked to is only 12 miles from me
Looks like they adjusted everything. RR camber is not perfect though. Any time you see red in the final readings means it is out, but they did adjust it toward spec.
All looks good, given the constraints on that RR camber eccentric. I hate those things: stupid way to adjust alignment settings on a car, and GM is still doing it to this day (at least on the Alpha platform). Otherwise, they got it all within factory specs. My preference is to go for -.05 to -1.0 degree of camber both front and rear, even for a street alignment. It simply provides more grip that way. I would also max out the front caster available at whatever camber setting you choose (you usually have less caster available as you stray from 0.0 camber), again to improve grip with steering angle. A teeny amount of toe in, like you got, is ideal for most uses. That said, for a car that's going to be a street driver only (never exploring any limits), the factory alignment specs are just fine...nothing to be stressed about.
So, I got my four wheel alignment and was told that the RR cam was ‘wallered’ out too much to get closer than -0.3. All other specs look good. Post #14
Since then I have gone from OE 16” wheels and tires up to 17” and have also lowered the rear. I am going to get another alignment but before I do, I have several questions:
What could my alignment guy have been referring to when he said ‘wallered’ out? The only parts used for adjusting rear camber is the spindle rod bracket, part # 14060165 and the rear strut rod camber bolt kit, and of course the wheel spindle rods themselves. Am I missing something here?
The spindle rod bracket, part # 14060165, is the same for the right and left?
Looking around, I have noticed that the rear strut rod camber bolt kit that everyone is selling comes with a spring lock washer. If I were to replace one of these, would I use that lock washer? The FSM or the GM parts book does not show a lock washer.
I had the whole rear-end out of this car replacing bushings and so forth earlier this year and I did not notice any wear on any of the parts I re-installed. I got the alignment and wheel balance immediately after I put the car back togeather.