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So I power washed the engine and removed the pumps and compressor. I want to get everything clean. So how do I get the intake, plenum and runners clean. Machine shop?
I have been using so much elbow grease. I'm starting to sound like the tin man, OMG. Last time I assembled an engine. The engine was on a stand. This sucks!! LoL.
I have some pictures of the intake manifold. Inside the runners. It is dirty. Maybe even oily. The car does not burn oil. The low coolant light was on. And every once in a while I needed to add coolant. No drips or puddles. So I am thinking head gasket. So the, 113, heads are coming off. I drive the car when I can and some, rare track use. I am convinced to stay with the TPI. It generated power where I drive. So there is no reason to go with a different induction system. I am thinking shorty headers. Like I said I rarely go over 4500 rpm. I think long tube headers are for higher RPM, correct?
Yeah....I'm lazy, so I say, "**** that ****!"....and I hit the "Easy Button".
Use an aluminum etching cleaner. Spray it on...spray it off. EASY.
See this intake? See that suspension? It was a dirty, old DOG, **** box when I bought it. Sprayed it on....sprayed it off and look at the thing....
Wow, that looks amazing, does the etching cleaner harm anything else, is it really this simple? lol. If so, I'm definitely doing this, that looks brand new.
The stuff I used was "Eagle 1, Etching aluminum wheel cleaner". There are numerous brands, however. At work, we use "Alumabrite" brand, on aluminum side panels on snow cats and it works awesome too.
Originally Posted by Dacer Spears
Wow, that looks amazing, does the etching cleaner harm anything else, is it really this simple? lol. If so, I'm definitely doing this, that looks brand new.
Pretty much, "that simple". You have to get caked on crud off, so that the chemical can touch the aluminum -a power washer makes quick work of that type of crud.
I've been using this type of product for decades. While I try to get most of it on what I want to clean, that is aluminum, and I try to avoid letting it hit a bunch of other stuff, I've let the product hit plastic, the composite leaf spring, steel, cast iron, paint, rubber ...it doesn't affect any of that. The only thing I've seen it stain or tarnish is gold iridated components. It'll turn them white so you want to avoid letting it land on anything that is gold iridated.
It does indeed work awesome. Check out one example of a before and after, HERE!.
I've taken aluminum parts and even carburetor parts and all my Corvette engine pieces and put them in the dishwasher on a long hot cycle. There's no etching and they're really clean. Just don't tell your wife. They don't appreciate the need for clean engine parts.
The stuff I used was "Eagle 1, Etching aluminum wheel cleaner". There are numerous brands, however. At work, we use "Alumabrite" brand, on aluminum side panels on snow cats and it works awesome too.
Pretty much, "that simple". You have to get caked on crud off, so that the chemical can touch the aluminum -a power washer makes quick work of that type of crud.
I've been using this type of product for decades. While I try to get most of it on what I want to clean, that is aluminum, and I try to avoid letting it hit a bunch of other stuff, I've let the product hit plastic, the composite leaf spring, steel, cast iron, paint, rubber ...it doesn't affect any of that. The only thing I've seen it stain or tarnish is gold iridated components. It'll turn them white so you want to avoid letting it land on anything that is gold iridated.
It does indeed work awesome. Check out one example of a before and after, HERE!.
Wow, incredible stuff, I checked out that before and after you linked. I have a pretty clean car right now, but I would like that bright aluminum pop.
I agree and that's why I share that here. You can polish aluminum and make it look like chrome, but I've never loved that "custom" look. Scrubbing w/detergents gets it clean too...but I love the etching cleaner b/c when it's done, it does "pop" as you said (good description), yet it still looks totally OEM. It looks like the parts just came off the assy line, and that's one thing I really like about that way of restoring the aluminum surfaces.
Great thread. My 85’s engine has a fair amount of gunk on it. Regardless of whether I just use simple green or the etching spray, what parts should I avoid spraying? Thanks in advance.
Already covered in post #11, but here it is again, WRT aluminum brighteners....
Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
I try to avoid letting it hit a bunch of other stuff, I've let the product hit plastic, the composite leaf spring, steel, cast iron, paint, rubber ...it doesn't affect any of that. The only thing I've seen it stain or tarnish is gold iridated components. It'll turn them white so you want to avoid letting it land on anything that is gold iridated.
jseremba, tom 400 speaks truth and wisdom here. i have done a few tpi intakes with aluminum brightners and it loojs outstanding. no elbow grease required. in canada its called alumabrite from napa. eagle1 etching mag cleaner same thing.
its *not good* for concrete…ie it will eat it just like vinegar and muriatic will.
i took my dissassembled tpis and put them on a tarp. spray them down. let that stuff work. for REALLY bad manifolds with heavy scale in the pits…..just multiple applications and casual abrasion is all thats required.
use the hose to dilute and wash it away.
the tpi and the lt5 are my two fav intakes.
this was my 85 beside my 87. 85 had been cleaned. when i sold this car…..the guy opened the hood and he almost gasped. the thing is that its not painted. its factory. and as you know, most tpis today look like absolute *****. so when he opened the hood, he bought it. the restored valve covers help too. i think this was my 86 partially through reassembly after getting its cleaning. enjoy the process.
edit: i know you will want to do your engine accessory brackets. you can. but know that they are not really aluminum. called “pot metal” ive heard this reference no idea where it comes from. the brightner will 100% clean and restore an even finish. but it wont be shiny. it never was. use the brightner to restore an even, clean, finish. dont let it sit on the pot metal too long. you will know what i mean. wiping with a cloth can help on the pot metal. cheers.
Last edited by VikingTrad3r; Jan 22, 2023 at 01:13 AM.
