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Couldn't seem to find anything on this. My headlight gears stripped out a while back and I replaced them, they were making a grinding noise everytime the headlight tried to go down. Headlight was still being weird when it closed, like instead of one smooth motion it was kind of jerky in the way it went down. About a month later, it started grinding again, wouldn't close all the way. Pulled it off and, yup it stripped out the gear again. I'm fairly certain that this isn't the gears doing at this point. I was told there's a limit switch that tells the motor when to stop, and that could be the issue. I'd rather not buy a whole new motor as they're about $150 - $200. Gears aren't cheap either. If anyone knows what I could do to fix this issue, or somewhere to start I'd appreciate it. I'm not exactly an expert in electrical.
not sure on yours but i think new C4s have a control unit that I am guessing measures load to know when to stop. someone should chime in soon about your year.
It sounds like the motor or assembly you put back together was binding; ""Headlight was still being weird when it closed, like instead of one smooth motion it was kind of jerky in the way it went down."" The motor shaft has to fit down just right and the 2 red plastic/rubber spacers have to be on top of the square copper bearings. If the limit switches do not open it runs your battery down and makes a clicking noise every 7 seconds. If you buy new ones pay attention to whether you need 2 or 3 wire motors. Can you manually open it smoothly? BE CAREFUL AS THEY CAN MOVE WITHOUT WARNING WHEN MOVING MANUAL **** AND TRAP YOUR ARM EVEN WITH KEY OFF.
Last edited by Vets-Vet; Feb 11, 2023 at 01:50 PM.
On 84-87 cars the headlight motor armature is spring loaded to the center position. The limit switch is a simple mechanical device. If the motor has power and the headlight can not rotate any farther it will force the limit switch to open. When the headlight assembly hits the stop, the worm gear will force the armature forward or back depending on the direction and open that limit switch.
"If the motor has power and the headlight can not rotate any farther it will force the limit switch to open"
The motor has to travel the full distance at each end to open the switches, I believe that you meant to say if it can't rotate far enough to hit the switch the thermal breaker opens.
"If the motor has power and the headlight can not rotate any farther it will force the limit switch to open"
The motor has to travel the full distance at each end to open the switches, I believe that you meant to say if it can't rotate far enough to hit the switch the thermal breaker opens.
Distance of travel makes no difference. When the headlight hits the stop and can no longer rotate the pressure against the worm gear will force the armature forward or back compressing the spring and opening the limit switch. The limit switches are on the ends of the armature and have nothing to do with the position of the headlight. A broken tooth jaming the gears can cause the limit switch to open in the middle of travel. If the plastic gear that is driven by the worm gear is worn or stripped the motor can continue to run even if the headlight is fully open or closed. And it can run until the battery dies or you pull the plug. Probably why they changed the design for 88 and up models. This is on 84-87 only.
I figured it out. The grease inside the motor was so old and chunky that it wasn’t letting the assembly move far enough to close the switches. Cleaned it out, turned the gear around, worked perfect about five times and then it got stuck on the bad teeth. New gears coming soon. Seems like a lot of people replace the motors without needing to. Swap the gears, clean out the whole motor. Shoulda done that last time.