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Anyone installed this on a C4 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-21811? What things do I need to take into consideration like access for service, clearances?
my car is 1991 M6
I have the Canton version of it. I build my engine on a stand, so if your going to install it with engine in car it CAN be done. Have to drop the 2 steel pieces under the pan and rotate the crank a bit to get old one out-new one in. You also have to change the oil pump pickup (at least I did).
But I saw your other thread about oil Temps. So if this is why your looking at this pan, I'd be looking into adding a decent oil cooler instead. I have a stacked plate B&M cooler in front of radiator of my built 383. My oil Temps will hang out in the 190-200 degree range.. they work good
thank you
Actually, I’m swapping it for a new 383, and they come with standard pan that doesn’t have an oil indicator, but since these cars corner well, and will see tracks, I want a pan that is able to supply oil safely in all situations, plus these pans come with 20mm bung for the sensor. The car has the water to oil cooler but I understand it’s not enough. They will mount the pan and install a proper scavenging tube.
I was wondering, can you remove the starter for servicing without removing the front exhaust, having this wide pan?
The 383 engine is rated 420Hp for carburetor setup, but with stock intake I expect it to do about 400lbft or less @5600rpm and I will reduce advance and possibly lean out (I’ll install EGT to see how it reacts) to keep max torque to 400lbft. well see what kind of temperatures it will get to. This engine is designed for mineral oil but I’ve found a semisynthetic designed for old cars that can handle up to 150C (Motul 10w40 eighties).
thank you
Actually, I’m swapping it for a new 383, and they come with standard pan that doesn’t have an oil indicator, but since these cars corner well, and will see tracks, I want a pan that is able to supply oil safely in all situations, plus these pans come with 20mm bung for the sensor. The car has the water to oil cooler but I understand it’s not enough. They will mount the pan and install a proper scavenging tube.
I was wondering, can you remove the starter for servicing without removing the front exhaust, having this wide pan?
The 383 engine is rated 420Hp for carburetor setup, but with stock intake I expect it to do about 400lbft or less @5600rpm and I will reduce advance and possibly lean out (I’ll install EGT to see how it reacts) to keep max torque to 400lbft. well see what kind of temperatures it will get to. This engine is designed for mineral oil but I’ve found a semisynthetic designed for old cars that can handle up to 150C (Motul 10w40 eighties).
Yup, same reason I used a pan like this as well.
Yup, starter can come right out. I have Full length headers and a gear reduction starter.
And the Canton pan has the drain plug, oil temp sender, low oil level sensor (I dont use that so its plugged), an inspection plug, and a 1/4 npt for a universal dipstick that I use.
I run 10 30 mineral oil..
And also, even though my pan says will clear a stroker crank and it did, make sure to check clearances when you install it.
For legit road racing or even autocross use, I would recommend the Kevko 1091-RR pan. Canton's don't work all that well and have a bad habit of the baffle flaps sticking and/or breaking. My 396 LT4 (~420rwhp) on 315 Hoosiers front and rear on a road course couldn't uncover the pickup with that pan.
For legit road racing or even autocross use, I would recommend the Kevko 1091-RR pan. Canton's don't work all that well and have a bad habit of the baffle flaps sticking and/or breaking. My 396 LT4 (~420rwhp) on 315 Hoosiers front and rear on a road course couldn't uncover the pickup with that pan.
I remember in 2017 when I bought the pan and everything else I saw you mention about possible issues with the Canton...was too late to return it. But I did go through it and I did find a questionable weld for one of the doors. I fixed the weld and everything else looked fine.....I would have bought the pan you recommended above but like I said was too late to return mine. No issues so far, but also haven't been to a real track with it. Hope to next year but in my area there are not too many tracks. A customer of mine runs the New York Safety track, but even that is a few hours from me.
I have recently managed to install the new engine but the Morosso pan has a clearance issure with the frame. It sits right on top of the two frame braces bolted to the frame that are mounted at about 45 degrees and they are virtually flush with the oil pan. This is probably caused by the fact the new oil pan is taller. I also have new engine mounts, I don't know, maybe they have something to do with it.
Did anyone go through this problem?
