When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm looking to install a Roll Bar in my 1990 Coupe. As of now I am just planing on doing some Autocross and a few Drag and RR Days. I have a Tube Bender that can do up to 1 1/2" but not 1 3/4" which looks to be the standard these days. So I'm probably better off buying a Kit. I'm looking at the Autopower 31400 or something similar. My main concern is how well does the " Hoop" follow the contour of the Roof line. For now I do not plan on adding any Door Bars just a 4 Point. I am proficient at Tig Welding and I have a Milling Machine to cut Notch's. If I do get addicted about Racing and want to step up to a cage I should probably see about having my install inspected before I fiberglass everything back together. I doubt I'll ever be fast enough at the Drag Strip so that probably means the SCCA ? I assume I start that process by joining them. So besides the Autopower, who are we using ?
When I did mine (6 point in my 88) in 2003ish, no company made a kit. So through Jegs I ordered a "kit" which was nothing more then a main hoop and a bunch of tubes notched on one end. The hoop was way too tall. Once we cut it down it fit great. It matches the lines of the roof.. I can get to every halo screw and what not. I believe Competition Engineering made it. I still have all my receipts, so if you really need me to I can find the part #. I also made outriggers for the rear tube so they mount above centerline of axle, but angled a little to allow the targa top to still store back there. All in all it wasn't a bad job. I would have also gone with swing out bars for the door bars, but back then they were not legal at all in any class of racing I wanted to do (so I was told).
I had my 90 caged fully and the welder who fabricates about 20 cages per year advised me not to bother. Mine was custom fabbed from scratch with a bender etc.
I have since been reading up a bit and it looks as though 1 1/2" with a wall of .120 is feasible. So I might be able to make my own bends after all. I might get a scrap and see how well my bender does with it.
The idea of a rollbar is to save your head in the event of a rollover. a 1 1/2" bar would be good for attaching seatbelts but will not pass NHRA tech. Go 1 5/8" to be safe.
I've see things pop up time to time craigslist might be worth a local scour to find similar (or shipping/trip?)depending what new / or your time/materials to build cost.
"$800 heres a c4 vette 84-96 10 point SCCA Cert roll cage, with front subframe support kit; 1 3/4'' x 120 DOM tubing rear hoop welded only has to be fit in your project. , cost with shipping was $1280.85 have the recept. "
I've see things pop up time to time craigslist might be worth a local scour to find similar (or shipping/trip?)depending what new / or your time/materials to build cost.
"$800 heres a c4 vette 84-96 10 point SCCA Cert roll cage, with front subframe support kit; 1 3/4'' x 120 DOM tubing rear hoop welded only has to be fit in your project. , cost with shipping was $1280.85 have the recept. "
I'm looking to install a Roll Bar in my 1990 Coupe. As of now I am just planing on doing some Autocross and a few Drag and RR Days. I have a Tube Bender that can do up to 1 1/2" but not 1 3/4" which looks to be the standard these days. So I'm probably better off buying a Kit. I'm looking at the Autopower 31400 or something similar. My main concern is how well does the " Hoop" follow the contour of the Roof line. For now I do not plan on adding any Door Bars just a 4 Point. I am proficient at Tig Welding and I have a Milling Machine to cut Notch's. If I do get addicted about Racing and want to step up to a cage I should probably see about having my install inspected before I fiberglass everything back together. I doubt I'll ever be fast enough at the Drag Strip so that probably means the SCCA ? I assume I start that process by joining them. So besides the Autopower, who are we using ?
You don't need to do anything to go autox, drag race or hit track days. Just show up.
Putting anything on the inside of the car starts blurring the lines between streetable and track only pretty quick. Look how ridiculous this thing looks and let us know how you feel about having swingouts.
Heres a few kits from S&W, S&W Race Cars (swracecars.com)
Notice the DOM tubing is not recommended for NHRA-IHRA certification. The .120 wall thickness is too close to the .118 minimum and may not pass sonic check
Heres a few kits from S&W, S&W Race Cars (swracecars.com)
Notice the DOM tubing is not recommended for NHRA-IHRA certification. The .120 wall thickness is too close to the .118 minimum and may not pass sonic check
I find it odd that all there Kits are EWS or DOM if its not recommended. I also see that other Vendors say that they no longer supply Chrome Molly Tubing. It certainly looks like the SCCA wants to see DOM Tubing at 1/3/4. Since my car at best might get close to the NHRA 11.49 I will probably build towards the SCCA specs. I have since figured out my Tubing Bender will not do 1 1/2 at .12 wall so I am back with buying a Kit in DOM.
You don't need to do anything to go autox, drag race or hit track days. Just show up.
Putting anything on the inside of the car starts blurring the lines between streetable and track only pretty quick. Look how ridiculous this thing looks and let us know how you feel about having swingouts.
I completely agree. There’s no way I’d put a cage in anything unless it’s a dedicated race car. A cage has no place in a car you drive on the street.
Ive been in 3 C4's with bars. One has the swing outs and its still a pain to get in and out of. One had a 4 point, and the last one has a full cage. Its a dedicated race car, but even at that, it was a lot for me to get in and out of......
But on the street, IMHO a rollbar is more dangerous then none at all. My biggest concern would be, being rear ended and it jacking your head up into the steel tube, that is part of your frame. Again, that little padding aint gonna help a lot with no helmet on.
One last point, read carefully how the bar is to be installed.... Most are not legal for NHRA, that I have seen. I believe the main loop is to go all the way to the floor. On a C4 you are going to need to slide the seat forward for that to happen. Then look at the angle that the rear supports are supposed to run. Also, look at what NHRA wants for clearance above your head.
This kit is from Auto Power, the main hoop fits pretty good, but it is very close to the halo trim. It is not finished yet, I was unable to work on it for a couple years, hopefully it will be in this summer.
This kit is from Auto Power, the main hoop fits pretty good, but it is very close to the halo trim. It is not finished yet, I was unable to work on it for a couple years, hopefully it will be in this summer.
Hi, you wouldn’t happen to have the part number for the kit that you ordered from them? Thanks! Kevin
The company is Autopowerindustries.com, I bought it through Corvette Mods, they seem to have been bought by another company, I can't find the onr I bought from them, but they list it on autopowerindustries.com, hope this helps
This kit is from Auto Power, the main hoop fits pretty good, but it is very close to the halo trim. It is not finished yet, I was unable to work on it for a couple years, hopefully it will be in this summer.
One thing that has not been mentioned is how the a Roll Bar gets right in the way of your vision through the rear view Mirror. I'm assuming in the picture nothing has been welded yet I would think that flipping the Hoop the other way would be less intrusive. I like to check to see who is sitting on the on ramps when driving the freeways of Washington State. I got to know some of our States finest Highway Patrol in my youth.
4-point roll bar by DRM installed 1995-1996. bar by hatch release used to hold up rear window (Astro-wing by 49th street). Roll bar welded to steel plates just behind racing seat with back brace Rear bars welded to rear frame rails
Removeable swing out driver side bar. While working at Orlando Speed World (Track tech inspection)
I knew the NHRA tech inspector from when I ran a comp B/ED in N J. Division 1 . Had the car checked for roll bar and door bar. Division tech said your good to 11.49 with your setup. My best run was a11.54 @ 120.xx. Steering wheel my own design . I drive this car on the highway and drag race when i have time for FUN! My dragster I ran was the RED BARON 7.48 @175.xx at my last race Gatornationals
March 1988.
John
One thing that has not been mentioned is how the a Roll Bar gets right in the way of your vision through the rear view Mirror. I'm assuming in the picture nothing has been welded yet I would think that flipping the Hoop the other way would be less intrusive. I like to check to see who is sitting on the on ramps when driving the freeways of Washington State. I got to know some of our States finest Highway Patrol in my youth.
He does have it “mocked” up incorrectly. The purpose of the diagonal bar is to keep it from collapsing in a rollover. So currently he is protecting the passenger instead of the driver. Hopefully he hasn’t started welding. Based on how small the cuts are in the fiberglass it doesn’t look like he was seriously involved.
But I will say all diagonal bars are going to obscure visibility.
Preferred Roll Bar Kit ???
