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A question for you folks that are running Hyme joints on your suspensions.
I have the Banski units for toe and camber adjustment on my 86. I have some looseness in the 3 and 9 o'clock positions (9 on the passenger side and 3 on the drivers side). I cannot find the issue in the toe rods where I think the problem should be. This is the first car I have ever used these parts on so I have no background with hyme joints other than my maintenance background from the Air Force. Airplanes have them everywhere and they don't wear out. My units are 4 years old and have the rubber protectors on them.
Would this be the reason Banski went out of business?
A question for you folks that are running Hyme joints on your suspensions.
I have the Banski units for toe and camber adjustment on my 86. I have some looseness in the 3 and 9 o'clock positions (9 on the passenger side and 3 on the drivers side). I cannot find the issue in the toe rods where I think the problem should be. This is the first car I have ever used these parts on so I have no background with hyme joints other than my maintenance background from the Air Force. Airplanes have them everywhere and they don't wear out. My units are 4 years old and have the rubber protectors on them.
Would this be the reason Banski went out of business?
This isn't why Banski went out of business. Everybody who runs their stuff (including me when I still owned a C4) liked them. They use Aurora rod ends like a lot of others. There are of course different grades of these things, and what you'd find on an airplane is eleventy times higher grade than any of these aftermarket links. But you should be able to buy replacements on the market pretty easily if you can get the numbers off the rod ends you have now. I can't help you with how to find the looseness, except to say you can just unbolt one end of the link in question and then it should be pretty obvious where any slop is.
This isn't why Banski went out of business. Everybody who runs their stuff (including me when I still owned a C4) liked them. They use Aurora rod ends like a lot of others. There are of course different grades of these things, and what you'd find on an airplane is eleventy times higher grade than any of these aftermarket links. But you should be able to buy replacements on the market pretty easily if you can get the numbers off the rod ends you have now. I can't help you with how to find the looseness, except to say you can just unbolt one end of the link in question and then it should be pretty obvious where any slop is.
Matt,
Thanks for the quick reply.
Like you said, aircraft quality parts are extraordinary in quality. I should call a mechanic friend or two and see what they have access to.
I really didn't want to disassemble the links but I believe you are right. I will have to in order to find the culprit.
They are fairly cheap Heim joints, standard 5/8 stuff, four years is a long life for those. The more expensive stuff has tighter tolerances better materials and design, and also varies with misalignment tolerance (if there’s not enough, they would wear and perhaps fail fairly quickly. Aircraft would not have the cheap ones as mentioned, but they wear out on aircraft on a regular basis also, I’m in the aircraft business myself.
Banski is local to me, the man just got tired of dealing with it, he’s done it for a long time and got burned out, wanted to pursue other interests. Got many of the parts from Colemans Machine.
Some of the heim joints out there are much cheaper even and wear out within 1,000 miles easy.
The rubber boots are a PITA but they do make the parts live a little longer.
Thank you all for your responses. I will pull the units off and mic them. Could be the through bolts are wearing.
I haven't had the time to get to this because of the ZF install currently going on. I will check on this before I re-install the exhaust.
Rod ends can wear if they're not kept clean. But it's more likely you've worn out the tie rod itself.
If you have the EZ-Just threaded rods that use the clamps instead of jam nuts, they have a tendency to wear the threads out, especially if the clamps aren't tightened properly. You can over-tighten them easily, since the bolt through the clamp is steel and the clamp is aluminum. Too much monkey and you deform the threads and it'll never tighten properly again and you get the wiggles.
The good news is you can get new arms from Coleman:
Or just put an OE replacement tie rod assembly on it from Rock Auto. The toe links don't take a lot of load and the stock ones have more than enough adjustment for any sane or even racing oriented alignment. The tie rod ends use ball joints that don't have the problems you find with the trailing arms' rubber bushings. There's no advantage to the fancy race parts in that location other than the bling.