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12-14 volts. They need to be pulsed. Running them continuously can damage them from overheating..
You can buy a tester/cleaner box on Amazon for around $35.
Well, V=IR so, I= V/R
I used 12 volts from the battery. Made a jig using an injector plug, a switch, a long twin lead and clips to connect to the battery posts.
12/15 =.80 DC of course. You need to ohm your injectors to see, but mine where 14.5 - 15. I used the same jig and clamped the clips to the meter ends to read resistance.
bought this rig off fleabay years ago - about $30 or so. only used it once, but as i remember worked OK to test the injectors. powers from the car's battery. had to make up a plug-in adapter for the injectors. as i recall, had to remove the spring-clip on the injector plug for easy on/easy off use.
You used a typical 9v for a transistor radio? I tried that and it didnt have enough current. The car battery made it click on and off. When you where putting your top end together, was it tough to get the cold start connected while messing with the
tubes and upper plenum? As I recall you said you tightened everything by hand. I read somewhere that 18 ft lbs was the magic number.
Yes, cold start was a ****** !! Everything had to sort of go together a little loose and then get organized together at the same time. I left it unpluged for flexibility. Getting the fuel rail / CSI fitting screwed in was difficult at best. Make double sure the injector is well seated into the manifold, it can fool you. I would apply a small amount of motor oil to the large oring on the injector as well.
Last edited by Vets-Vet; Mar 29, 2023 at 07:24 AM.
