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Changed the oil and filter today (90° today in Central Texas) and noticed a leak coming from either oil pan or top of rear engine seal seal.
I already got the oil pan gasket but decided to tackle all gaskets and hoses the next 2 months. I have a booked up April weekends (going to San Antonio tomorrow for cousins birthday party, next weekend brother in town, April 15th birthday weekend with dad in town, Austin Rat Rod show with high school buddies in town on the 20th thru the 23rd and finally Austin Radwood car show the 29th) and will start in May with the C4. I wanted to take both the c4 and my 92 z28 to Radwood but it will only be the z28.
I replaced the intake gaskets about a month ago so I guess fixing those force the leaks to other areas.
I don't think you can "force" the leaks to another area if the PCV valve is working correctly. If not then the crankcase is pressurized and you could "force" the leak to a new spot. Dan
Check your oil cooler on top of your filter. I found mine loose and barely holding on. I had to remove the filter and tighten up the pipe inside that holds it to the block. You may need a new gasket above it. Leaks at this spot can travel along the oil pan lip and look like a rear main seal. Easier to fix than what you're planning, so check it first before you get all the way into Plan A.
From: Clifton Park, NY ............Clearwater, FL ... 85 Original Owner
Originally Posted by topduarte
changed the oil and filter today (90° today in central texas) and noticed a leak coming from either oil pan or top of rear engine seal seal.
I already got the oil pan gasket but decided to tackle all gaskets and hoses the next 2 months. I have a booked up april weekends (going to san antonio tomorrow for cousins birthday party, next weekend brother in town, april 15th birthday weekend with dad in town, austin rat rod show with high school buddies in town on the 20th thru the 23rd and finally austin radwood car show the 29th) and will start in may with the c4. I wanted to take both the c4 and my 92 z28 to radwood but it will only be the z28.
I replaced the intake gaskets about a month ago so i guess fixing those force the leaks to other areas.
Did you replace the intake manifold gaskets? On my 92 I had lots of leaks when I got it. I did the intake, oil pan, timing cover and valve covers. I still ended up having a leak at the back of the intake manifold. That china wall is difficult to seal properly since it just takes gasket sealer and no gasket. I got it on the second try and now my 92 is leak free. I also had a leak back there from the oil pressure sensor, but did that first.
I'm battling fixing the leaks on my 92. I'm down to one leak that keeps the LR portion of the block above the oil filter wet, but doesn't leak on the ground. I'm convinced that it is the China Wall at the rear of the intake. Mr. Goodwrench resealed the intake about 20 years ago, but it appears that he used silicon, and it is leaking again in the vicinity of the oil pressure sender stand pipe. The gaskets arrived a couple days ago from rockauto, I still need to procure the exact type of RTV that I like to use on China Walls because I've never had to do one over, and I'll attack the intake. I hate leaks.
What rtv do you use? First time I used RTV black. Second time I used the tube that came with the Felpro gaskets that was also RTV black, but I don't know if it was permetex. I apply to both sides and let set up for about 10 minutes.
Broke the damn oil level sensor but just ordered one from Advance fro $31.29.
Cleaned up oil pan and engine to tranny aluminum plate.
Good 90 minute workout.
The dipstick going thru the original gasket thru me a curve but figured it out.
Did notice the factory or one of the owners but some gasket maker on the edge of both front and back ends of oil pan.
Also in 1st pic, the electrical connector to the oil level sensor is not fun to take out. Need to get deep in with very skinny screwdriver or needle nose pliers to pop it out.
Last edited by Topduarte; May 2, 2023 at 08:04 PM.
The FSM specifies to use RTV on the corners of the block where the caps meet the block. I like to apply it to the area where its needed and let it set up for about 10 minutes so it doesn't ooze out into the oil pan. I also try to smear a little on the pan gasket where it will contact so it makes a better seal.