C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Brake booster

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Old Apr 14, 2023 | 12:13 AM
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Default Brake booster

Hello I have a 1988 corvette that’s been giving me a lot of issues like slow starting, misfiring, shaking and a bunch of other issues I’ve changed and replaced a lot including a new distributor and timed it and it’s finally sounding good, the egr code is on but I haven’t gotten around to change that but I went to start it and take it for a drive and when I pressed the brake at idle the engine sounded like it was going to stall. The brake has had trouble stopping the car and the pedal isn’t stiff I assumed it just needed pads but now idk when I disconnect the vacuum line to the booster the rpm’s jump up then calm down when press the brake then the rpm’s don’t change so would this be the booster going bad and could that be why the car takes forever to start?
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Old Apr 14, 2023 | 01:24 AM
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An easy test is too clamp vice grips on the vacuum hose going to the booster. If your idle and performance improve you know the booster is bad. Put tape on the vice grip teeth and open them a little to not damage the hose.
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Old Apr 14, 2023 | 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Warriorofsun47
Hello I have a 1988 corvette that’s been giving me a lot of issues like slow starting, misfiring, shaking and a bunch of other issues I’ve changed and replaced a lot including a new distributor and timed it and it’s finally sounding good, the egr code is on but I haven’t gotten around to change that but I went to start it and take it for a drive and when I pressed the brake at idle the engine sounded like it was going to stall. The brake has had trouble stopping the car and the pedal isn’t stiff I assumed it just needed pads but now idk when I disconnect the vacuum line to the booster the rpm’s jump up then calm down when press the brake then the rpm’s don’t change so would this be the booster going bad and could that be why the car takes forever to start?
You can test whether the brake booster is functioning and holding vacuum pretty easily. When you press the brake with the car running, the pedal normally doesn't feel "stiff" because you have assist from the booster. When you shut the car off and wait a few seconds, you should still be able to get 1-2 additional presses until the pedal gets solid/stiff. If it's IMMEDIATELY solid/stiff on the first press, it means the vaccum has leaked off rapidly and suggests you've got an issue with either the booster or the check valve.
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Old Apr 14, 2023 | 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by topfuel67
An easy test is too clamp vice grips on the vacuum hose going to the booster. If your idle and performance improve you know the booster is bad. Put tape on the vice grip teeth and open them a little to not damage the hose.
the engine actually stalls when I plug the vacuum line
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Old Apr 14, 2023 | 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Warriorofsun47
the engine actually stalls when I plug the vacuum line
My son has a 1990 which has a "speed, density" system for the injectors, but I believe your 1988 has a MAF sensor. My guess would be that the computer has adjusted the IAC motor all that way closed to try to keep the idle down at a level it wants, but that means that the ONLY source of air for it to idle is what's leaking in through the vacuum leak in your booster. When you suddenly clamp it closed, you starve the engine of air quicker than the IAC can compensate for it. Someone else would have to chime in with whether that explanation is plausible for a MAF sensor engine. I know that in the speed density system, the computer doesn't really know or care where the combustion air is coming from, just uses some calculation based on manifold vacuum, temperature, and RPMs to figure out how much fuel to inject.
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Old Apr 14, 2023 | 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by phaze426
My son has a 1990 which has a "speed, density" system for the injectors, but I believe your 1988 has a MAF sensor. My guess would be that the computer has adjusted the IAC motor all that way closed to try to keep the idle down at a level it wants, but that means that the ONLY source of air for it to idle is what's leaking in through the vacuum leak in your booster. When you suddenly clamp it closed, you starve the engine of air quicker than the IAC can compensate for it. Someone else would have to chime in with whether that explanation is plausible for a MAF sensor engine. I know that in the speed density system, the computer doesn't really know or care where the combustion air is coming from, just uses some calculation based on manifold vacuum, temperature, and RPMs to figure out how much fuel to inject.
do you know how I would fix that maybe the main airway is blocked or the throttles stuck to a certain extent the car struggles to start and once it finally does I have to press the gas to keep it from stalling immediately
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Old Apr 14, 2023 | 11:05 PM
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Once you replace the booster you should be able to reset the iac. There's a procedure in the FSM or search this forum. It is covered a lot. I have a 92 so I don't have the FSM for the L98 anymore.
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Old Apr 15, 2023 | 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Warriorofsun47
do you know how I would fix that maybe the main airway is blocked or the throttles stuck to a certain extent the car struggles to start and once it finally does I have to press the gas to keep it from stalling immediately
I think it is important you rule out the booster.. which I guess you could say you have.. however, I would think, and I know nothing about the older c4's but I would think, if you clamp it off and start the car and keep letting it try to get to idle that the system would clear itself out.. Just keep the car running and let it almost die, get it running again, etc.. over and over..
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Old Apr 16, 2023 | 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by barchetta1
I think it is important you rule out the booster.. which I guess you could say you have.. how
ever, I would think, and I know nothing about the older c4's but I would think, if you clamp it off and start the car and keep letting it try to get to idle that the system would clear itself out.. Just keep the car running and let it almost die, get it running again, etc.. over and over..
This is what I'd probably try as well. Though I might suggesting disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, then reconnecting first to get the ECM to forget anything it's learned.
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Old Apr 17, 2023 | 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by barchetta1
I think it is important you rule out the booster.. which I guess you could say you have.. however, I would think, and I know nothing about the older c4's but I would think, if you clamp it off and start the car and keep letting it try to get to idle that the system would clear itself out.. Just keep the car running and let it almost die, get it running again, etc.. over and over..
yeah the booster goes stiff as soon as the engine is turned off so I got a new one I’ll try what you said to do but if it doesn’t work would I just replace the iac?
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Old Sep 20, 2023 | 12:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Warriorofsun47
yeah the booster goes stiff as soon as the engine is turned off so I got a new one I’ll try what you said to do but if it doesn’t work would I just replace the iac?
Hi, Has this fixed the issue? I'm having a similar problem. Thank you!
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Old Sep 20, 2023 | 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by 1988C4Corvette
Hi, Has this fixed the issue? I'm having a similar problem. Thank you!
yes it did it was pulling vacuum from the booster so once I changed it then it was fixed
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Old Sep 20, 2023 | 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Warriorofsun47
yes it did it was pulling vacuum from the booster so once I changed it then it was fixed
Thank you so much! Ill try this out!

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