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Okay thanks...So with the reference wire measuring half a volt, and the Full throttle position reading 4 volts and then "OL", would you think my TPS is bad?
Okay thanks...So with the reference wire measuring half a volt, and the Full throttle position reading 4 volts and then "OL", would you think my TPS is bad?
Thanks!
If you went WOT with the TPS sensor reading you have the engine most likely will go into “reduced power” mode and you would get a trouble code…is that what it did ??…that would not cause your misfires.
If you went WOT with the TPS sensor reading you have the engine most likely will go into “reduced power” mode and you would get a trouble code…is that what it did ??…that would not cause your misfires.
Well it started with a P0300 code. After some other maintenance, the code went away, but it would stall and sputter once the car got hot. Then I got a P0122 code, did some more maintenance. That code went away, but still stalled and sputters...next up a P0304 code, which is what it currently has, and it seems to cut off all the time now, even before it's hot. If you want to know the maintenance I did, let me know. Your thoughts welcome...
When you said the reading said “OL” did you mean 0 volts ???…OL is a resistance reading when you are on the ohms scale !!…you sure you’re using your multimeter correctly ???…P0304 is a #4 cylinder misfire and the P0122 is a TPS code.
I had it set to VDC, and "OL" came up on the screen maybe 7/8's of the way to WOT. .
I've used the ohms meter the most...guitars, amps etc....Usually get the "OL" when a pickup or something has a broken lead and is dead. If this makes no sense, maybe I'll just have to try again.
Yes...I guess the P0122 is what got me looking at the TPS.
It's just kinda been like.."ring around the fault codes" lately...
I promise, I'm not using the staple "Centech" you see everyone using, LoL...
it's an older Craftsman one. Had a Fluke, but like this one more. Mainly used it for guitar and amp stuff. Always been very good. Could very well just be "pilot error". If it stops raining, I'll go try again...
This time, when I moved it open and closed, I got the "OL" in there in different spots...Kept working it, and now it no longer does the "OL" at all.
The TPS is basically a potentiometer, right? Reminds me of stuff I have seen with guitars. Luckily, I'm a little more at home with that stuff. You get like a guitar from the 50's with CTS pots...sounds are crackly when you turn the volume up. Spray some cleaner in there, work it back and forth, and it's fine. Then you get something more contemporary, with "sealed" pots. They go bad, and you just have to replace them. Kind of more like what this TPS is, I am thinking...
So when working it back and forth made the "OL" go away, had me thinking...Maybe it just has dirty traces inside. Probably just metal on metal for 27 years,,,Plausible?
I don't plan to hack it open and attempt to clean it or anything, ha ha...Kind of more wondering if it's worth chasing and ordering a new one...
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