Have a look at CNC Motorsports website that is where I bought my " Kit" . I bought it during the goverment shutdown and had to wait months for it to arrive. Modern Cast Cranks are much more durable than the factory ones of the past. 9 out of 10 Scat brand Cranks sold today are cast. I went with the Scat Cast Crank and H Beam Rods with ICON Forged Pistons. My machinist told me not to buy a pre ballanced kit and take it to somebody local which I did. The only surprise was the balancer had to add some heavy metal, and that cost another $80. I think making 400 HP with the stock Heads is a bit optomistic. But doable with AFR's.

 

Just got off the phone with Chad at Golen. I described to him what I was looking for and he came back with a rough estimate of 8.5k. This would be making use of as much of my current engine and included balancing with my flywheel. He said that I would be in the are of 500chp.

Does this seem like a good deal?

 

Been doing some soul searching, and I have decided to go with Golen. It means I wont have the car done for this summer, but from all the reading I have done it should be a quality build with a warranty. This leads me to my next question. The motor should be making around 500chp which the stock clutch probably wont hold for long. I have been looking for a replacement and found a company called Mcleod but I'm having trouble figuring out if they will work with the stock dual mass flywheel. If anyone of you know the answer to this please let me know,

 

I still think 500HP is a tall order with stock Heads. There are many Clutch install threads here on the Forum if you use the search. Generally Mcleod is not one of them for the ZF Trans and Carolina Clutch and Ram are.

 

Its been a long time coming, but its finally happening. I found someone selling a built Lt4 383 that seems legit and I got it for a decent price.

 

How many miles on the engine when it spun the bearing? What signs did it give to let you know of an issue, just the sparkles in the oil?
What are the details of the 383 LT4?

 

My stock motor has about 90k on it and after 2 pulls on the dyno it was down on power. I started hearing a tapping which turned into a knocking, after dropping the oil pan and found glitter.

The engine I'm picking up is an older build, but the guy has a video of it running and tons of receipts to prove his claims. Its always a gamble buying used engines, but I have been satisfied with the sellers claims.
Ill be checking everything i can to be sure, but i think the parts alone are worth what i'm paying for it.

 

 

Hi everyone,

From my 383 perspective that I did in my C4 a while back, I needed a smaller (externally balanced) harmonic balancer, a mini starter because I am running a 700R4 and had to change the flex plate which had a different amount of teeth. Also, I put in a BBK adjustable fuel pressure regulator.
The above are a few unplanned surprises that arose. I hope this may be of help.
cheers
Darcy Bast

 

Welp, looks like I bumped into a "Problem" again.

After driving many many hours to go pick this engine up, under the assumption it was a 383, I dropped the pan when it got it home and discovered that it has a 14088532 crank in it. Doing some research on this, its an stock replacement for a 350ci, albeit stronger than original stock. Needless to say I was disappointed. A quick phone call to the seller leads me to believe that the person who originally sold it to him blew smoke up his *** and made him believe it was something it wasn't. I could hear he was upset with my findings and offered to take motor back if I desired, I declined. What i actually purchased looks to be a built 355ci with many many supporting mods.

Below is a list of things I have verified with my own eyes.

- LTCC opti kit
- Stock LT4 heads that have been ported and polished. (unless AFR heads from around 2004ish don't come with markings on the outside) these have 22224 stamped on them
- Stock LT4 ported intake
- JE 4.030 pistons
- Lunati rods
- 14088532 Crank
- Eletcric Water pump
- Tpis AC eliminator bracket
- Canton oil pan
- ARH long tube headers
- Spec Stage 3 clutch
- Spec solid Alum Fly wheel
- Holly 58mm TB

Things I still need to check

- What Comp Cam is in it ( the receipts have a few choices and i need to confirm but I'm leaning towards it being custom ground, I have a Cam serial number I can look up) Some of the specs are listed in an above pic.
Spoke with Comp Cams and ran the serial number listed above. I need to pull the timing cover to confirm, but this seems like decently large Cam for a street car. When tested by comp it made 402chp on a 355.
- What lifters/springs are in it
- What Injectors are in it
- What valves are in it
- Tune

All things said and done, this still feels like a decent buy for the price I paid ($2900). If i manage to verify what's in it and give it a good clean and once over it'll still be a decent motor. Anything else I should look for when i going through this?
Also, anyone care to speculate on the numbers a motor like this could produce? I have a dyno sheet posted above, but now I'm not sure if its crank or wheel HP or if its even real anymore.

Thanks for reading.
-Brick

 

Cam specs,

I called Comp yesterday and confirmed this cam was made and sold to the original builder. From what the guy at comp told me this is a "big" cam for a 355.

Intake/Exhaust
283/289
.569/.577
112 lsa
4° of advance

I need to find the piston dish/dome cc for these JE pistons that are installed, but if i leave it at 6 for the time being I get a compression of 11.3:1

 

If the heads flow around 300, I am guessing the dyno graph is to the wheels.

 

even with it being a 355? Also looking at the flow chart it's seems to be 275/190 at pea, but who knows.

 

Info is confusing, so difficult to add up I think it could do that if everything is matched very well, and 300cfm, it's a big cam,...but I would think it would need to spin higher, around 6800.
My LE2 H/C setup with 280cfm heads, stock short block, made 402/360 wheel, but it was 6500+ rpm. Mine drives great with a 230/230 cam 106lsa.
You got good parts for the $, at worst, maybe have to change the cam to match the heads better, or for better drivability.
Or swap the short block now for a 383, and sell the 355 if you want more torque.