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I just installed a new battery in my C4 ZR-1 which to my understanding uses the same battery and posts as every other C4. I have a tinder question as a result. I don't want to hook up a battery tender with the clamps, instead, I want to use the rings that came with my tender. However, they are narrower than the posts. I think they are something like 8 or 10 mm whereas the posts are 3/8 of an inch. In short, I can't use the rings without drilling them out to make them bigger. I assume I'm not the first person to have this issue. Any solutions are welcome and appreciated.
There are side terminal specialty bolts that would allow you to use the ring terminals on your tender probably without requiring the reaming of the terminal. A specialty automotive audio installer or a fleet service that does electric add-on accessories(plows/spreaders etc) likely has in stock. I'd think a likely find would be one that either has an M6/M8 female thread or an M6/M8 male post that you could nut. An easier find would likely be a 3/8 male threaded post. Modify the cord with your own 'crimp & seal' ring terminals.
***There's also some very nice side terminal bolts most commonly found on some earlier Cadillacs that you could then use the clip-on clamps.
you didn't say what year "zr-1" but it is likely a 90 or 91 which have the stud for all the fuse links. You can secure the (+) lead to the stud behind the battery. You can secure the (-) lead to any bolt that secures something to the frame. There are a couple of bolts inboard of the battery, including the discriminatory sensor mounting bolt for the sir system.
You will probably find it easier to remove the side panel and battery to facilitate this installation, i did. Both my 90 and my 92 have permanently connected tender ports such as you desire. I route the connector plug out the side gills. For driving locally i tuck the connector up into the gill so i can still grab it, but it won't flop in the wind-stream. For longer trips i push it entirely into the fender, and have to fish it out when i want to use it again. Fishing it out, particularly in the 92 (because the holes are so tiny) is a pain. You could also put it over the wheel well seal and close the hood on it. That wouldn't hurt anything.
Would a pair of these work? They have a second bolt within the main attachment that's usually used to connect audio power supplies for amps directly at the battery....
Recoil GMS 2Pcs Short GM Battery Side Post Terminal Adapter
https://a.co/d/5oak83Y
It does have a usable stud in the firewall mounted fuse box by the battery.
This deserves maybe some consideration. Remove a cover from either of the under-hood fuse blocks and investigate. With the fender removed Fuse Block #1 might be the more accessible? See FSM 8A-201-5. In a different post I thought you mentioned having to redo the fender panel to correct fit . so ........
Would a pair of these work? They have a second bolt within the main attachment that's usually used to connect audio power supplies for amps directly at the battery....
If you don't find something that suits you just buy any of the aftermarket S/T Bolts and then drill/tap to match the ID of your ring terminals. Use threaded fastener of your choosing and then you say .. I OWN THIS!!!
This deserves maybe some consideration. Remove a cover from either of the under-hood fuse blocks and investigate. With the fender removed Fuse Block #1 might be the more accessible? See FSM 8A-201-5. In a different post I thought you mentioned having to redo the fender panel to correct fit . so ........
My solution worked “just fine” but I like that idea for a more discreet install and as you say “owning” the spot and hiding it in the fuse block itself. Remember battery tenders are NOT putting out a lot of amps so don’t have to go overboard. A friend of mine just uses the cigarette lighter adapter version for his Porsche…
Also what can’t be seen is the charger lead attached there has a fuse in it…this should be present for any permanent charge lead install.
On my 88, the cigarette lightet plug is wired to be hot all of the time. If your model is also that way, you could hook into your tender that way. Then you do t have to pop the hood at all. Just leave a window cracked a bit.
I ran into the same issue with the terminals not fitting the side mount battery screws. I set mine up on my 96 using the positive post on the block right next to the battery and then grounded the black on a frame support bar. My plug hangs out just under the hood by the windshield wiper. Works good.
The scratches on the hood were not caused by the tender. The neighbors cat did that. At least I think it was him...he loves my car. Doesnt hang out on any of our other cars. Only paw prints on the corvette. Can't fault him for that... Hahahahaha!
I'm curious about this setup. I'm a little bit confused about how it works. Seems pretty simple. Can you explain to me how this somehow magically gets power back to the battery?
Using the same magic that gets the power form the battery to the cig plug to begin with.
With the key out of the ignition, push in your cig plug. If it heats up, wire your tender to a cig plug (polarity matters!!!) and just plug it in. It'll work. If it doesn't heat up with the key out, then yours isn't wired hot at all times and this won't work.
07-03-2023, 09:20 PM
Batter Tender Question
