Budget 383 Stroker Crankshaft recommendations
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
Likes: 3,216
From: Park City Utah
Anyone heard anything about the Speedway Kits?
They have one-piece RMS 383 crank, rods, and piston kits for around $750-$1000
They have one flat top kit that says it should be 11.2:1 compression ratio with 58cc heads like the 113 castings. Perhaps I could make that work with a slightly oversized head gasket? Get it down to 10.9:1 or so?
@Tom400CFI
I while back I made a thread asking about what it takes to get a high revving (consistent 6750-7000 RPM track and road race redline) small block chevy. I had assumed forged lightweight crank, rods, and pistons were the way to go. I forget who but several people posted something along the lines of it all being in the balance job, and the valvetrain.
That being said I really don't mind a 5750 RPM redline if it means I can avoid the extra cost of machine shop balancing, the extra turn around time, and keep things simple.
They have one-piece RMS 383 crank, rods, and piston kits for around $750-$1000
They have one flat top kit that says it should be 11.2:1 compression ratio with 58cc heads like the 113 castings. Perhaps I could make that work with a slightly oversized head gasket? Get it down to 10.9:1 or so?
@Tom400CFI
I while back I made a thread asking about what it takes to get a high revving (consistent 6750-7000 RPM track and road race redline) small block chevy. I had assumed forged lightweight crank, rods, and pistons were the way to go. I forget who but several people posted something along the lines of it all being in the balance job, and the valvetrain.
That being said I really don't mind a 5750 RPM redline if it means I can avoid the extra cost of machine shop balancing, the extra turn around time, and keep things simple.
If you're building low budget, I'd think long life would not be a driving criteria.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,501
Likes: 880
From: Saratoga Springs NY
2024 C4 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2022 C4 of the Year Finalist - Modified
My engine is fully balanced. 383. Eagle 3.75 crank, scat forged 5.7 rods, speed pro forged pistons..1 piece main seal (I machined original block from 88, about the only thing original to the car) 4 bolt splayed, 86 and up flexplate, and a 6 3/4 balancer for a 400 external balance engine. The shop balanced it all and said everything was right on the money. I also weighed every part before I built the engine. I have my rev limit set at 6400 and I easily hit it. Will slowly bring it higher, maybe..
That being said, if you wanna turn 7000, besides having the engine fully balanced, you have to have a cam/heads/intake that will actually let the engine spin that high. At some point the engine just will not be able to go any higher.
That being said, if you wanna turn 7000, besides having the engine fully balanced, you have to have a cam/heads/intake that will actually let the engine spin that high. At some point the engine just will not be able to go any higher.
Last edited by FostersPerformance; Aug 9, 2023 at 09:33 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 6,944
Likes: 1,490
From: New Jersey
This is what I was talking about. The nose on a Scat9000 requires 1 slug of Mallory to achieve "neutral" balance. My shop said "Hell no! We can just drill the counter-weights (cause the wackjobs couldn't install Mallory without it flying off on their dirt track cars. They decided drilling was a better choice. (I decided they were amateurs)
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 3,729
Likes: 559
From: Seattle Washington
FYI in 2021 I used a Scat 9000 Crank and with the advice of my Machinist I did not buy the pre balanced one and took it to a local balance shop. They called a week later and told me that they would have to add some heavy metal and it would be an additional $80. Oh well. If I was to do it differently next time I might order the pre balanced one and then take it to a local balancer and have it re checked. Had it received heavy metal over seas it might of been cheaper. But we are splitting hairs here.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,925
Likes: 441
From: Albuquerque NM
Still looking for crankshaft recommendations
If my goal is 400rwhp and high revs, 6000-6500 RPM redline consistently... AFR 195 Enforcers, 383, LT1 intake manifold converted, cam to match...
Should I be getting a forged crank?
Any leads on inexpensive forged 3.75 stroke, 5.7" rod length one piece rear main crankshafts?
Eagle has one for around $650
Pistons are Icon 9914-030 forged
Connecting rods are forged Eagle SIR
If my goal is 400rwhp and high revs, 6000-6500 RPM redline consistently... AFR 195 Enforcers, 383, LT1 intake manifold converted, cam to match...
Should I be getting a forged crank?
Any leads on inexpensive forged 3.75 stroke, 5.7" rod length one piece rear main crankshafts?
Eagle has one for around $650
Pistons are Icon 9914-030 forged
Connecting rods are forged Eagle SIR
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 3,729
Likes: 559
From: Seattle Washington
Still looking for crankshaft recommendations
If my goal is 400rwhp and high revs, 6000-6500 RPM redline consistently... AFR 195 Enforcers, 383, LT1 intake manifold converted, cam to match...
Should I be getting a forged crank?
Any leads on inexpensive forged 3.75 stroke, 5.7" rod length one piece rear main crankshafts?
Eagle has one for around $650
Pistons are Icon 9914-030 forged
Connecting rods are forged Eagle SIR
If my goal is 400rwhp and high revs, 6000-6500 RPM redline consistently... AFR 195 Enforcers, 383, LT1 intake manifold converted, cam to match...
Should I be getting a forged crank?
Any leads on inexpensive forged 3.75 stroke, 5.7" rod length one piece rear main crankshafts?
Eagle has one for around $650
Pistons are Icon 9914-030 forged
Connecting rods are forged Eagle SIR
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 6,944
Likes: 1,490
From: New Jersey
even an old school factory cast crank would meet the desired requirements honestly... the only one I would be nervous about is the eagle casting... I've heard of those snapping the crank snout off and seen pictures. I believe the issue has been "fixed" but this was back in 2016 or so...
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,925
Likes: 441
From: Albuquerque NM
Thanks for the input guys!
I am leaning towards the Scat 9000 cast crank.
Now I am wondering if I buy myself any high RPM redline long term survivability by having the setup internally balanced even with the one piece rear main seal and factory ZF6 dual mass flywheel? Perhaps the machine shop can remove the counterweights from the ZF6 dual mass flywheel?
But yeah, it is good to know that a good modern casting can safely do 450 crank horsepower and 6000-6500 RPM redline consistently even as a track car!
I am leaning towards the Scat 9000 cast crank.
Now I am wondering if I buy myself any high RPM redline long term survivability by having the setup internally balanced even with the one piece rear main seal and factory ZF6 dual mass flywheel? Perhaps the machine shop can remove the counterweights from the ZF6 dual mass flywheel?
But yeah, it is good to know that a good modern casting can safely do 450 crank horsepower and 6000-6500 RPM redline consistently even as a track car!
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,925
Likes: 441
From: Albuquerque NM
I ordered a Scat 9000 through a forum member that is a Scat dealer. I plan to get the entire rotating assembly balanced with the GM OE harmonic balancer and ZF6 dual mass flywheel. I think it will do the job!