New motor wont start. It cranks, but its like its not getting spark, every little bit theres a pop sorta noise out the drivers exhuast (cant hear passangers as well.)
I hooked up the timing light and it strobes when I crank it, so I am guessing its sparking (havent pulled a plug and checked that yet).
I get fuel pressure (hardwired the pump just to be sure it was running.)
I cant get the tester in to test compression on #1. Can I test it on #3 to determin if the cap/rotor is in proper place (should be, but incase it was 180'd I want to check).
I turned the Dist alittle in each direction, and sometimes the sputter goes away, but only on far off turn.
No codes are coming up on the Check Engine, although I dont know if they would since it hasn't started yet.
Anyone think of anything? It feels SOOO close to starting, just wont.
Give me your thoughts PLEASE. I am letting the battery charge overnight while I work, and I will try again in the morning...
Matt

 

Have you made shure your distributor is not 180 out or for that mater is pointing at #1 when your timing mark is @ TDC you will have to pull the dist. cap when the timing mark is @ TDC and then pull the valve cover to make shure both valves are closed and the rotor is pointing @ number 1 cyl when the timing mark is @ TDC you probably already know this but hope it helps

 

I know it was set TDC on #1 Which rotation I couldnt tell you though. Engine builder said it should be compression.
I talked to a friend of ours that owns a shop and has done lots of motors, he said spin it 180 and try that.
Battery is dead now though, and work is ocming up, so I will try starting it again tommorow morning.
THanks for the input.
Matt

 

Another way I like to use to make sure the distributor is in properly: Pull out #1 spark plug (I know you said it is hard but you better get used to doing it), turn the engine over by hand untill you get the timing mark lined up with the indicator on the block. Now screw a compression tester into the #1 spark plug hole. Don't put the guage on. Try to blow with your lips into the #1 cylinder. If you are at top dead center on the compression stroke you won't be able to blow into it. If you can blow in then you are 180 degrees off so turn over the engine to bring the timing mark back up to line up on the tab. Try it again to make sure it is now at tdc on compression stroke. Now pop the cap off the dist. and make sure the rotor is pointing directly at #1 post on the cap. There ya have it.
If you have the timing all taken care of move on to fuel. Attach a pressure guage to the schrader valve fitting on the fuel rail and make sure you have at least 40 psi when you turn on the key.
You can check to make sure your ecm is sending voltage to your injectors by hooking up a noid light to an injector wire plug and cranking. If the light doesn't flash your ecm isn't working. I bought a really nice noid light kit with about 12 different lights for just about every fuel injection system there is from my Matco tool guy for about $70.
You can check spark more accurately by getting an OTC spark tester from your Matco, Mac, or Snapon guy. This is a handy tool that you install in-line on one of your plug wires. You adjust the gap on the tool and crank the engine over and see if the spark jumps the gap. By hooking up your timing light you can't really tell the power of the spark, a small amount will trigger the timing light to blink but may not be strong enough to ignite fuel in the cylinder.

Good Luck.

 

Ug. I would doublecheck each wire to make sure they're in the right sequence, as well as all the plugs going into the distributor (but if your timing light is working then that's probably not the cause).

Also, did you check to make sure you were at TDC on the compression stroke of #1? As you're turning the crank, put a finger over the spark plug hole and see if it pushes past your finger. That would also put you 180* out of wack. so if you're TDC on compression for #1, the the rotor should also be pointing at it (or just a little past it). Then it should fire since you're probably getting juice to the plugs!

Good luck, I felt your pain two weeks ago with electrical shorts, damper issues, and a weak ignition...

:banghead:


Uh... yeah, what Bob said. :D


[Modified by Ramanstud, 1:46 AM 1/23/2003]

 

Bob hit it right on the head in his write up. Just go back to the basics...it takes air, fuel at the valves and spark delivered at the right time to make it go. If you have 40 or so psi fuel pressure while cranking then work on it from a spark / timing problem.

 

Turned it 180: no go.
Reset #1 at TDC on compression, couldnt blow into it at all, redid distributor/wires: no go.
Dont have a fuel pressure guage unfortunatly, and nobody rents them either, but I do have a pressurized system (hit the valve and gas comes out under pressure). I also beleive its firing the injectors, cause I can smell gas on the plugs (no liquid on them though).

Air isnt a problem, even tried % open throttle starts, no MAF hose, etc

She sputters air out (I might have a video clip tonight, assuming I can get the wire I need for the camera, so someone can hear it)

What could be the matter?
Thanks again... :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :( :( :sad: :sad: :nonod: :nonod:
Matt
I WANT MY BABY BACK :mad

 

Okay, I don't see where you have done a good test for spark. Go get one of those tools like I describe above and do that. You gotta make sure you have a good strong spark.

 

Years ago, I rebuilt an engine for my Fiero and I had tightened the rocker arms too much. The valves were never fully closing. it was doing exactly the same thing as your car is doing now. Also, the starter turned really slow due to this. I loosened the rocker arms and it started right up.


[Modified by Siveck, 10:05 PM 1/23/2003]

 

If you know that the distributor is in the proper place, how far did you turn the distributor in each direction? Same issue with my new engine when I tried to started it the first time. I had to turn a little on each try but kept going the same direction until the car started. I had to turn the dist. at least a quarter turn before the engine started (90 degree). I don't know what you mean by turn a little each direction, how little? try to turn the dist. a little more.

 

Turned it quite a ways (45+ degrees).

Update... Got an injector Noid, all are getting the signal, got a fuel pressure guage, ~45psi, got a spark tester, all seem to fire.
Got some Starter Fluid, spray it in, and she stutters, morel/less turns over.
So we are pulling the plenum/runners now to test the injectors (and replace the crap TPiS bolts I put in). See if they are flowing gas or if they are clogged.

I might start a poll wether or not I should swap to the SuperRam at this time or not ;)
Matt