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Took the Vette to work today. I stopped at a stop sign, turned the wheel to the left and proceeded to make a left turn from a standing still. Normal driving... No clutch dumping or anything.
As soon as I start moving, I hear a clunk... Pretty sure it came from the passenger rear tire area. Within 30 seconds the SES light comes on.
I continue driving to work. I duplicated the clunk another 2 times. Taking off with the wheel turned either direction causes the clunk. The second time seemed to come from the torque arm area.
I will pull the code when I get home, but wanted to ask you for your preliminary opinion:
- Are the rear hubs causing the clunk, perhaps suspension? Any thoughts?
- Why would the SES be triggered?
Hoping for someone with prior experience will chime in.
Did you pull the code at all? Curious, as my 93 does this when first moving forward or backward, but not often. I am thinking U-joints wearing out, but that shouldn't set an SES.
Did you pull the code at all? Curious, as my 93 does this when first moving forward or backward, but not often. I am thinking U-joints wearing out, but that shouldn't set an SES.
Yes, I pulled the code today...P0300 for random/multiple misfires. No idea what's causing it. My cruise quit working a while back...vaccum leak?
This should have nothing to do with any clucnk in the rear. Cars have a way of throwing riddles at you.
In any case, I'm searching for all 6 u-joints so I can replace them. Need to do the hubs as well along with all rotors, pads, rebuilt caliper.....and so on.
I'm going from memory, back in 2017, so take this with a grain of salt. When I'd hit any kind of pothole in my '95, my SES would light for a few seconds and the engine would have reduced power. After 15-30 seconds all would go back to normal. I replaced the two knock sensors and everything became better/as good as new. Do you still have your original knock sensors in? A possible explanation: whatever is causing your clunking noise (bad wheel bearing, bad u-joint), is setting off your old, sensitive, failing knock sensors.
They are easy to change and cheap. If no coolant comes out when you remove them, stick a pointy thing in the hole and break loose the crystalized coolant. There is no need to drain the coolant if you are quick with your fingers and tools.