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Will be doing the first mechanical repair on my auto 1989 Corvette that started leaking bad. I assume it is the rear of the intake. What kit to get? Fel-Pro or Mahle MS1541 or the full Mahle MS1541W kit? Tips and tricks and where else it may be leaking if this doesn`t do it.
I did my first intake manifold and chyna wall gasket job when I was maybe 15 or 16 years old, on my dad's old 85 Z51 4+3 that he had given me as my first car, over a decade ago!! It certainly was my first real "mechanic" level job, but on these cars it is a right of passage.
You'll do fine. Set the time aside, don't rush, take care with fastener heads and stripping and cross threading threads.
Use shop rags to plug the intake ports in the cylinder heads. Make sure you understand the procedure for setting or resetting the timing, as you have to pull the distributor to do this job. For me, the first time around at 16 years old, that was the toughest part, re-setting the timing.
I just did the intake manifold gasket job again this past year on my 1991 ZF6 car as part of an LT1 intake manifold swap, and this time setting the distributor timing was a piece of cake ;
IMO either gasket set will work. Most importantly IMO is a thorough cleaning of the china wall top surface using a metal brush, brass or something, plus a wipe with acetone, then lay down the 1/4" thick bead of "The Right Stuff" RTV gasket maker, add a little extra where the china wall meets the cylinder heads, draw the bead up a hair onto the cylinder head surface.
A little blue RTV is allowed around the coolant passage ports of in the intake gasket on either side of the gasket. This will help seal, and help to keep the gasket "stuck" to the cylinder heads as you locate and drop the manifold down onto the heads.
You shouldn't use any other RTV on the intake manifold gaskets themselves.
Now is also a good time IMO to preventatively replace the oil pressure sensor and switch sender located at the back of the motor by the distributor. These sensors are cheap and easy to replace, WHILE This job is being done, and while you are at it, disassemble the little contraption of NPT pipe fittings back there, clean the threads on all of that, and using thread sealant (white permatex stuff high temp) reassemble it. Those sensors back there often go bad, and or spring oil leaks eventually. Reinstall that stuff IMO after you reinstall the intake manifold.
Okay back to the manifold... after you lay your RTV down on the front and rear china walls, and lay the intake manifold gaskets down on tbe cylinder heads, held in place lightly by RTV blue around the coolant passage ports, you carefully drop the intake manifold down onto the motor, lining up the intake manifold to cylinder head bolt holes.
Now get all your bolts started by hand, especially if you have aluminum cylinder heads (late 86-91), then tighten down lightly with a tool. I wouldn't do final torque yet, but I would use the factory torque pattern on the intake manifold bolts to get things snugged a fair bit. Allow an hour or so for the RTV to harden, then do final torque.
I did my first intake manifold and chyna wall gasket job when I was maybe 15 or 16 years old, on my dad's old 85 Z51 4+3 that he had given me as my first car, over a decade ago!! It certainly was my first real "mechanic" level job, but on these cars it is a right of passage.
You'll do fine. Set the time aside, don't rush, take care with fastener heads and stripping and cross threading threads.
Use shop rags to plug the intake ports in the cylinder heads. Make sure you understand the procedure for setting or resetting the timing, as you have to pull the distributor to do this job. For me, the first time around at 16 years old, that was the toughest part, re-setting the timing.
I just did the intake manifold gasket job again this past year on my 1991 ZF6 car as part of an LT1 intake manifold swap, and this time setting the distributor timing was a piece of cake ;
IMO either gasket set will work. Most importantly IMO is a thorough cleaning of the china wall top surface using a metal brush, brass or something, plus a wipe with acetone, then lay down the 1/4" thick bead of "The Right Stuff" RTV gasket maker, add a little extra where the china wall meets the cylinder heads, draw the bead up a hair onto the cylinder head surface.
A little blue RTV is allowed around the coolant passage ports of in the intake gasket on either side of the gasket. This will help seal, and help to keep the gasket "stuck" to the cylinder heads as you locate and drop the manifold down onto the heads.
You shouldn't use any other RTV on the intake manifold gaskets themselves.
Now is also a good time IMO to preventatively replace the oil pressure sensor and switch sender located at the back of the motor by the distributor. These sensors are cheap and easy to replace, WHILE This job is being done, and while you are at it, disassemble the little contraption of NPT pipe fittings back there, clean the threads on all of that, and using thread sealant (white permatex stuff high temp) reassemble it. Those sensors back there often go bad, and or spring oil leaks eventually. Reinstall that stuff IMO after you reinstall the intake manifold.
Okay back to the manifold... after you lay your RTV down on the front and rear china walls, and lay the intake manifold gaskets down on tbe cylinder heads, held in place lightly by RTV blue around the coolant passage ports, you carefully drop the intake manifold down onto the motor, lining up the intake manifold to cylinder head bolt holes.
Now get all your bolts started by hand, especially if you have aluminum cylinder heads (late 86-91), then tighten down lightly with a tool. I wouldn't do final torque yet, but I would use the factory torque pattern on the intake manifold bolts to get things snugged a fair bit. Allow an hour or so for the RTV to harden, then do final torque.
Good luck!
That was a great write up dude thank you so much! I am 20 doing my first mechanical job, so I am a bit late to the party haha. Any other tips and tricks you would like to share?
Intake gaskets job
