Team,

I'm in the process of removing the rear wheel hubs so I can replace them with new ones. Driver side is off, however, top bolt on passenger side is keeping me from success. Can't get to it just yet due to the half shaft in the way.

In any case, I also bought the u-joints for the half shafts. I need advice with the following:

- Do the hubs being off offer any advantage in removing the half shafts WITHOUT having to undo the tie rods?

- Should I focus on the hubs first and get them installed before I start messing the the half shafts?

Thanks for the help.
Ric

 

Just undo the remaining bolts that hold the rear knuckle in place. Bring the knuckle to the bench to remove the hub bolts and clean everything up. While it is out, you get the opportunity to look a lot of things over and check bushings.

At that point pulling the half shaft out is pretty simple.

 

While on the bench, check the 'Teflon' washers, one in each side. They are known to disintegrate so they may not show any evidence of having been in there. They are also hard to find.

 

I believe the half shaft out first is the way I got to the hub bolt but I was doing the half shafts anyway. I remember telling myself a year ago that if I ever did it again I would (mark and photograph) unbolt the support rods as that is easier to do trying to get the job done ( I can't remember why though, I think re assembly). Just remember to tighten support rods with weight on the wheel. I believe at some point I also removed the camber support rod. The teflon washers Sleezy Rider talks about can be stuck to the axle and hard to see. I thought mine were missing.

I used this, at 5:29 into the video.

 

All,

Thanks for the responses. My initial thought was to raise the knuckle with the jack to see if I could gain the clearance. Remember, it's only one bolt remaining.

I also like the idea of removing the tie rod, but I'm afraid to ruin the grease boot. I will need to anyone since I'm replacing the joints. Do they even sell those? What about the Teflon washers... Who has them?

 

Teflon washers are the C4 corvettes Black hole, unobtainable unless from a parts yard. I bought rock auto grease boots but they look much smaller than the oem, never installed them. I obviously did not do enough homework before buying.
.

 

SUCCESS!

I was able to get the last bolt out. I was going at it at a slightly wrong angle it seems. Anyway, both wheel hubs are out.
In preparation to remove the half shafts, I removed the tie rods. No need for a fork and mess up the boots..I simply loosened the castle nut all the way to the end of the rod and tapped with the hammer. After 4 light-medium blows, it popped. The driver side popped out on it's own.

I moved on to the caps on the passenger side u joints. The bolts had a lot of surface rust, so it was a bit tough getting the socket on. I then realized I couldn't take the bolts off because the whole thing was spinning. So I got a bit smart and rigged a stop. See below. Notice the 1/4" ratchet extension.😉


Anyway, removed all cap bolts and caps. However, the chips were frozen in place, so I had to tap on them until they broke loose. After all that, I had a hell of a time removing the shaft, so I removed the cross link at the bottom of the knuckle. No dice, so I loosened up the trailing arms. After slicing my forearm with the cutter pin on the spring bolt, I was able to drop the shaft by pulling the knuckle out and allowing for clearance.

Then it hit me.... It's the spring that's causing all the pain and suffering. With that said:
​​ Is it wise to remove the spring bolt to unload the knuckle?

 

I have done U joints and wheel bearings on 3 cars now and in my opinion you should basically just pull most of it apart.

I disconnected the toe rods. I release the spring. I remove the lower strut camber arm, and remove the half shafts.

it ain't too bad.

 

I think this is the way to go, especially when it comes time to put the shafts back in place.

 

Team,

I noticed the bushings in the trailing arms are deformed. Looks like they need replaced.

- What brand bushings are recommended for these? Energy Suspension or Prothane ok to use?
- Why are my trailing arms made of composite plastic as opposed to previous years made of aluminum?
- Do I need to use Loctite on the bolts for the u-joint caps? Blue I assume?

Thanks.

 

There is potentially reason to go with the SuperPro bushing set. The material is softer than the polyurethane of the ES or Prothane kits. This prevents the rear suspension rates from being as high as they would be with the ES or Prothane kit. Rear suspension rates can be too high! That can cause snap oversteer especially when the rear rate rapidly increases as suspension travels.

The complete SuperPro kit while more expensive than the ES or prothane kit, isn't that much more expensive.

 

I was just looking at Superpro's site. They don't have a complete kit. You have a link I can use?

 

https://www.corvettepartscenter.com/...on-bushing-kit

I just ordered the SuperPro 84-87 set from them and installed it in my 1985.

That vendor I linked shipped promptly and had good communication!

 

Team,

Do I need to replace the u joint straps and bolts with new ones? Can I reuse the originals? Do I need to use blue loctite?

Thank you

 

Just clean them up with a wire wheel and yes, blue loctite.

 

10-4!

 

Team,

At the end of the day, I had to remove the driver's side knuckle. The u-joint caps were frozen in place against both inner and outer yokes. At that point I figure I'd remove the passenger side as well. Even with the knuckle removed, the shaft was still hanging there without support.



The old u-joints were also a pain. Again, completely bonded to the aluminum ears on the shafts. It too a heavy duty vice and 5"3" pipe to break them lose.


Knuckles all cleaned up with new Moog hubs installed and torqued to 65 lbs-ft.



​​​​​​
One last update, I had also ordered Moog u-joints which are now installed on the half shafts.

Since I was already there, I ordered Super Pro bushing for the trailing arms (dog bones), which I installed today.

Ric

 

Heck yeah looks great!

I killed a wimpy 6" chyna freight bench vise just a couple weekends ago doing basically the same job.

 

One other thing...this is what the dog bones looked like. HEAVY buildup of deposits right between the bushing and the aluminum. It was most prevalent on the ends, both bottom and top, that attach to the body. After removing all that corrosion, there was heavy pitting on the aluminum.

 

Made it easier.... Didn't it?