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I'm upgrading to a MOMO steering wheel, but the OEM airbag cable is in the way. I can't tuck it behind the new hub, so I'm forced to remove it. How should I go about that?
You need a clock spring removal tool. It will compress the clock spring and you will remove the snapping that holds it in place. Then from there you use the tool again to help remove the lock plate that is next.
at that point you should be able to unplug the airbag connector from the dash harness and remove the protective sheathing. Then start working on pulling it up the column.
Please do not just hack it off. This part is no longer made.
As said I can't Stress this enough, before pulling make wheels straight and do like Chump Vett said. Once you have the Clock Plate free Secure the Clock assembly with a tie wrap or two on each side of the through the shaft and around and pull up snug, you don't want the inside getting to much out of time.
You need a clock spring removal tool. It will compress the clock spring and you will remove the snapping that holds it in place. Then from there you use the tool again to help remove the lock plate that is next.
at that point you should be able to unplug the airbag connector from the dash harness and remove the protective sheathing. Then start working on pulling it up the column.
Please do not just hack it off. This part is no longer made.
Ok, good news the Clock Spring Remover was included in the Steering wheel removal set, or it might be the same as the Lock Plate remover in this kit—they look identical. However, could you provide a quick walkthrough on setting up/using this tool? Unfortunately, there aren't many online resources on using them, and after reading your advice, I want to make sure I do this correctly. Thanks a lot!
In the FSM 3F5B-5 covers SIR Coil removal. That reference is from a '95 FSM but it should be same or very close all '94+ cars. It probably covers the winding/unwinding (centering) also but I paid no attention.
In the FSM 3F5B-5 covers SIR Coil removal. That reference is from a '95 FSM but it should be same or very close all '94+ cars. It probably covers the winding/unwinding (centering) also but I paid no attention.
Is there a way you could share that section or guide me on where to locate this page? Unfortunately, I don't have the Factory Service Manual; I only have the Haynes repair manual with me. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
It's not tough thread tool on to shaft position the U on each side of the lock plate and compress enough to take pressure off wire clip. Take a trans pick and slide clip off, release the spring tension remove tool and secure the clocking coil with the tie wrap so as not to damage.
From your point, screw the lock plate remover on and spin the wing it down to put pressure on the clock spring.
you will then create a gap and either use a pick or snap ring pliers to remove the snapping and slide it off the shaft. Remove the lock plate tool and then flip the coil out of the way, you tug on the harness snd get a few more inches to let it dangle. No need to worry about locking it in place as it has a brake on the back to keep it from unwinding,
Install the lock plate tool and depress the lock plate. There is a wave lock washer that will slide off. And then beneath it a cir-clip. Use a pick to remove the cir-clip and slid both it and the washer up the shaft. Now the lock plate and the plastic guide for the horn ground contact will come off.
at this point you are done with the upper end.
Now go to the mid line of the column where all the connectors are. Disconnect the yellow wire. And then slide the protective sheath off the column. This should give you all the room you need to get the harness out.
From your point, screw the lock plate remover on and spin the wing it down to put pressure on the clock spring.
you will then create a gap and either use a pick or snap ring pliers to remove the snapping and slide it off the shaft. Remove the lock plate tool and then flip the coil out of the way, you tug on the harness snd get a few more inches to let it dangle. No need to worry about locking it in place as it has a brake on the back to keep it from unwinding,
Install the lock plate tool and depress the lock plate. There is a wave lock washer that will slide off. And then beneath it a cir-clip. Use a pick to remove the cir-clip and slid both it and the washer up the shaft. Now the lock plate and the plastic guide for the horn ground contact will come off.
at this point you are done with the upper end.
Now go to the mid line of the column where all the connectors are. Disconnect the yellow wire. And then slide the protective sheath off the column. This should give you all the room you need to get the harness out.
Thank you so much, I realized the lock plate remover isn't the correct size as it's hitting the yellow disc. So I'll just get new tool then get back to work! Best answer I could of received though so thank you again👍
Thank you so much, I realized the lock plate remover isn't the correct size as it's hitting the yellow disc. So I'll just get new tool then get back to work! Best answer I could of received though so thank you again👍
Sorry to bother but I have one more question. I've applied pressure with the tool on the plate, but I'm uncertain about where exactly to use the pick for sliding it off. And I'm supposed to apply enough pressure to create a visible gap between them before using the pick? I started hearing cracking before seeing a gap, so I wanted to confirm before attempting trial and error.
You need to get enough pressure off to wear the snap ring spins freely. At that point you take the pick and start working the clip off or preferable snap ring pliers.
I'm upgrading to a MOMO steering wheel, but the OEM airbag cable is in the way. I can't tuck it behind the new hub, so I'm forced to remove it. How should I go about that?
Hi
I am considering the MOMO wheel also, Did you have to cut the hub adapter to make it fit?
Fortunately, I didn't have to cut the adapter. But the one I bought was labeled for the years 84-96 (one size fits all.). The only do-it-yourself mod that I had to do (1996) was sand papering the bottom. Otherwise, there could be slight rubbing, causing the wheel to not turn as smoothly / not recentering. But definitely worth it, MOMO makes some great wheels!
From your point, screw the lock plate remover on and spin the wing it down to put pressure on the clock spring.
you will then create a gap and either use a pick or snap ring pliers to remove the snapping and slide it off the shaft. Remove the lock plate tool and then flip the coil out of the way, you tug on the harness snd get a few more inches to let it dangle. No need to worry about locking it in place as it has a brake on the back to keep it from unwinding,
Install the lock plate tool and depress the lock plate. There is a wave lock washer that will slide off. And then beneath it a cir-clip. Use a pick to remove the cir-clip and slid both it and the washer up the shaft. Now the lock plate and the plastic guide for the horn ground contact will come off.
at this point you are done with the upper end.
Now go to the mid line of the column where all the connectors are. Disconnect the yellow wire. And then slide the protective sheath off the column. This should give you all the room you need to get the harness out.
Is there a way to de-pin this connector? Then just pull the other end of the cable from the steering column?
Fortunately, I didn't have to cut the adapter. But the one I bought was labeled for the years 84-96 (one size fits all.). The only do-it-yourself mod that I had to do (1996) was sand papering the bottom. Otherwise, there could be slight rubbing, causing the wheel to not turn as smoothly / not recentering. But definitely worth it, MOMO makes some great wheels!
Could you please give me a call as I would like to talk with you about this.
Thanks
Hawkeye56
cell 319-470-0052
Airbag Cable Removal
