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The voltages seem correct as long as they carry enough current to run the motors. If these are original relays the covers can be taken off and the contacts cleaned and very very lightly filed with a fine file or 800 grit paper and cleaned again after. The problem with some relays was the motor malfunctioned and the limit switches (inside the motor) did not turn the motor off after it hit the stops and the motor would have high current. In that situation the little glass bulb inside the motor which is a thermal circuit breaker would open the circuit. Every 7 seconds the thermal breaker would cool off, close the contacts and start the cycle all over again. That cycling is what burned out a lot of relays.
P.S. These motors are strong, once you start fixing things and applying voltages make sure your arms, elbows and hands are out of the way in case the headlight door moves. They are quick when they do so. If you plug a motor in just remember this, Headlight motors always have power, even without the key on. If a headlight is open and you plug in the headlights with the headlight switch in the off position, the headlight will move to the closed position without anything in the car on. Same if the headlight switch is on and motor unplugged it will open when plugged in.
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I'm gonna replace both relays. They look toast. All rusted and corroded. Will post the update.
Good news! Headlights are up and working after replacing both relays and the isolation relay. Thanks for everyone that helped along the way. Truly greatful for everyone here