On my 1994 Coupe the PKE Fob programming function does not work. I have had this vehicle for about 4 years and a couple of weeks ago the fob quite functioning. First I put in a new battery. When turn ignition key to the on position the PASSIVE KEYLESS ENTRY light on the Driver Information System / display comes on for about 2 seconds then goes out – have read that this means the PKE system has passed the basic self test. Tried to reprogram / match the fob using the following procedure:

1. Move all transmitters out of range.

2. Turn the ignition key on.

3. Push TRIP OD0 on the Driver Information Center twice.

4. Within five seconds, press and hold FUEL INFO until the PASSIVE KEYLESS ENTRY light comes on.

5. Turn the ignition off, but leave the key in the ignition.

The PASSIVE KEYLESS ENTRY light should begin to flash to show the system is in programming mode.

6. Bring one transmitter into range. The light will stop flashing and stay on to show that the code is stored.

7. Move the transmitter out of range. The light should start flashing again.

Problem: when follow this procedure, after pressing and holding the FUEL INFO button, the PASSIVE KEYLESS ENTRY light never comes on. Tried several times and no luck – fob still not working. Any suggestions as to why the programming function is not working or what should be my next step(s) will be appreciated. Thanks Bob

 

Does your PKE light illuminate when you turn ignition switch to Key to "run"? If not start there with the bulb.

Also the PKE system does not store codes and there is nothing to clear. It either is working, or it is not.

 

Thanks for the reply. Yes, the PKE light illuminates when turn ignition switch Key to "run". Was not trying to program the PKE system / module but trying to program / pair my fob as a possible solution to my fob not working problem. Just trying to ID why when follow the noted 7 step procedure, and after pressing and holding the FUEL INFO button, the PASSIVE KEYLESS ENTRY light never comes on as the instructions indicate it should. Thanks Bob

 

Thanks, great info. Will give it a try. Thanks again

 

Tried your suggestions. Started the car and checked the function of all the buttons on the DIC panel by verifying that the LCD responds to the changes commanded with the buttons. All buttons are functional. Checked the key in ignition chime with door open. The chime does not work. Tried my backup key and still no chime. Have had the car for about 4 years and to be honest I can not say for sure it ever worked. Question: what is the relationship between the chime and pairing my fob, especially since all the other related areas seem to be functioning? Must I fix the chime before I can pair my fob? Also, checked the PKE Module. Rolled down a window, left key in ignition and locked the doors. Closed the driver door and both doors immediately unlocked.preventing me from locking my key in the car. If you have any other suggestions they will be appreciated. Thanks again, Bob

 

The door outside key locks have switches. If one of these is 'closed', PKE won't enter programing. To test: Doors closed. Allow courtesy lights to go OFF. Turn outside key to the rear: courtesy lights should come ON. Return key to center. Try other door. Test successful on both doors.

Test the Door Ajar switches. Close both doors. Turn key to RUN. DOOR AJAR light must be OFF. (You can open and close each door, AJAR light should be ON with a door open, key in RUN.) Test successful, door AJAR light functions.

The PKE has some diagnostic codes available. I've never done this (perhaps Chump has?), but I would do this to see if the PKE module is active and receiving signal from the FOB.
Ignition Key in LOCKED position.
Jumper terminals 8 and 5 in the diagnostic connector. Jumped between 5 and 8
Shake transmitter in range while watching PKE light.
What DTC(s) are Present? (DTC will change as different signals are received. Example DTC13 FOB asleep, should change to 14 or 15 when shaken.)

No DTC = Terminal 8 not grounded, or open circuit. (Open circuit not likely.) Got no DTC codes displayed. Note: my fob does "rattle" when shook.
DTC 12 = Replace PKE Receiver
(Bring a FOB in range.)
DTC 13 = Replace FOB battery. Does DTC 13 still flash? If = YES, check antennas.
DTC 14 = FOB has not been programmed.
DTC 15 = Exit diagnostic mode. Use CCM diagnostics to evaluate door key switch inputs. (We did this above using the Courtesy Lights.)

\ 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 /
\ 9 - 10-11-12-13-14-15-16/

If you have the Factory Service Manual all of this is in Book 1 Section 9K. Have manual and will start reading and see if I can ID next steps when get no codes.
If nothing jumps out and slaps we beside my head. If can find what I think I am looking for, if not to many questions, will reach out again. Thanks Bob

 

Before I address my “mystery” I performed the recent tests you suggested with the results below.

One thing I come up with that is not likely (because your radio probably works) (Yes radio works) is that Radio Batt Fuse #40 is open. This is the PKE's power source when the key is OFF. (I am using a 1995 FSM. You have a 1994. I have learned that there are year to year differences in layout and hardware such as fuse circuits. So double-check me.) If find any added info will pass it on – still digging thru my FSM. There are 3 fused circuits for the PKE. The other two fuses are good because the PKE light illuminates for bulb test. Actually, because it passed the "unlock the doors if the key is in the ignition" test, this third fuse is probably good too.

The FSM doesn't say if the key is left in the ignition or removed to check DTCs. Jumper 5&8 and try both ways. Tried both ways.

With the key OFF, measure for Voltage between 5&8. I have no idea what the value should be, probably 5-ish VDC, (Got a reading of 4.95V) but the value should not be Zero. Install your jumper between 5&8 and measure again. Should now be 0V. Good a reading of 0V.

Now for my mystery. Since all tests performed “passed”, just for the heck of it, I decided to try one more time to check for any PKE diagnostic codes available. Installed jumper, put key in switch in off position, shook the fob and this time the PKE light started flashing but got no codes. Based on info provided “No DTC = Terminal 8 not grounded, or open circuit”. Thought this was odd as when jumped 5 and 8 got a 0V reading indicating that this circuit was grounded. May be making a bad assumption. So decided to pack it up and start researching the “No DTC”. Now the mystery, I had the fob in my pocket and has I was walking away the doors locked. Walked back to the car and the doors opened. Then tried to lock the doors pushing the button on the fob. Hear noise within the driver’s door that sounds like it is locking but it does not lock. Locked driver’s door and try to open it with the fob and will not open. On the passenger’s door can unlock with fob but not lock it (no noise as with the driver’s door). The hatch button works just fine.

Bottom line, have no idea has to why I get no DTC codes unless it is because there are no problems, and therefore, there are no codes to throw. Again, an assumption on my part. Or maybe all the diagnostic procedures I have performed did some form of a magical “reset”. For the time being I will just see how long the fob continues to work, do some research as to what is going on in the driver’s door (i.e, sounds like trying to lock but doesn’t), do some research as to whether it is worth the effort and cost to try and find / buy another fob, and of course, keep digging thru the FSM and see where it leads me.

Once again, thanks for all your time and support. Bob

 

Once again, thanks. You just saved me a lot of research in regards to the fob. Bob