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Hello all.
long story short I need to replace my driver O2.
1994 LT1.
I tried using an offset O2 socket to remove it. The metal shield interferes with the socket. I tried it anyways and rounded the sensor.
looking for thoughts/options.
First option is remove the cat section so I can actually remove and replace the O2 sensor.
Another option is what happens if I leave the sensor disconnected? Is there a delete option?
anything I’m missing?
I’ve had this c4 for 3 weeks now and I already want to delete all the stupid computer crap and make it a normal carburetored sbc
Hello all.
long story short I need to replace my driver O2.
1994 LT1.
I tried using an offset O2 socket to remove it. The metal shield interferes with the socket. I tried it anyways and rounded the sensor.
looking for thoughts/options.
First option is remove the cat section so I can actually remove and replace the O2 sensor.
Another option is what happens if I leave the sensor disconnected? Is there a delete option?
anything I’m missing?
I’ve had this c4 for 3 weeks now and I already want to delete all the stupid computer crap and make it a normal carburetored sbc
When I change an old O2 sensor I kinda take a different approach than most people. I start by taking a grinder with a cut off wheel and I cut off the sensor so the only thing sticking out is the part for a wrench. Then I don't need a special socket or even a deep well for that matter. Then I shoot it with some PB Blast and hit it with an impact. It will either come out nicely or strip the threads. If it strips the threads I chance them with a tap. If they're too bad for that I drill it out and weld in a new bung. Then the new sensor gets a good coat of anti seize so it doesn't happen again.
But if you can't get any tools on it then the best thing for your own sanity is to remove the pipe from the car and do it on a work bench. If it is rounded off badly you can cut them off like I said before and weld a big nut to the stub and get them out that way. Good luck.
Removed the cat section.
broke all three studs from the manifold.
downstream cat bolts came out fine.
with the cat section out I tried to remove the O2 and it’s welded in there. It’s completely rounded now.
I’ve had this c4 for 3 weeks now and I already want to delete all the stupid computer crap and make it a normal carburetored sbc
Dont blame the car. Blame the mechanic. Previous and current. Previous could have over tightened, not used anti seize. You should not have used an offset socket, but something like this
Also, heat is your friend breaking the rust bond.
But I wish you luck on spending hundreds of you are frugal up to thousands if you are not, to fix a problem that can be solved for under 50 bucks.
Used heat and pb blaster. Those are my go to for exhaust bolts.
The offset was recommended on a thread here for the driver side removal. I actually went out and bought it for this replacement.
im looking at my options from making a new cat section(but without the cat) to long tube headers and fabbing the connection to the resonator.
What happens to the computer if I delete the O2 sensors? Does it just stay open loop?
Got the driver side manifold off. Not too bad. It’s dumb you have to loosen the compressor to get to the one bracket from cylinder 3 to behind the compressor. I was debating on just deleting that bracket.
i do like that the fender well comes off. Great access.
the header/exhaust scene is not as plentiful as it is for gen 1 SBCs. I’m assuming that’s because the LT1 was only 3ish years for the c4?
either way, I’m not paying $1k for shorty headers or $2k for a full exhaust.
Now that the manifold and cat section is off I’ll be welding in a new O2 bung and then removing the broken manifold studs.
since the manifold is off I’ll replace the spark plugs and wires. Much easier access.
Before all this I was planning on changing the passenger O2 as well. I think I’ll wait til it throws a code lol
A hardware store torch with the yellow map gas bottle, heat it, quench with water, maybe 1-2 times then remove it. Don't heat the sensor, heat the bung, in a circular motion around it. Once a warm red glow quench it. Guaranteed it will loosen up. Don't be surprised if the threads are galled, plan on running an O2 sensor tap through it before installing the new sensor. Probably several YouTube videos on removing a stick o2 sensor with heat out there.
Got the O2 sensor out last week. Along with the manifold studs.
I was anticipating welding in a new bung but the threads cleaned up just fine. Manifold studs weren’t too bad to remove.
Tune up is in progress, wires/plugs/belt. I did discover the #7 plug was finger tight and had a lot of soot past where the plug would seal with the head.
im wondering if that the plug was loose enough to suck air into the cylinder, thus causing an actual lean condition and potential knock.
driver side is almost all done. Then just gotta do passenger. I also bought a snap on mt2500. Should be useful for future troubleshooting.
Everything is all out back together. Drove it 10 miles, let it get hot, the issue is fixed so far. Whether it was failed O2 or the loose spark plug, it’s all sorted out now.
also my cats are now “high flow” cats….if you know what I mean.