I'm running a stock thermostat in my 96CE w/ auto, 3.07, 85,000m. Not driving the vette lately since they really salt the roads in NJ. Will I get any heat with the 160 thermo? Has anyone had any bad luck w/ this?? thanks, terry :cool:

 

I had a 160* in for summer and it worked out great. As soon as winter hit and temps were in the <50*'s my engine temp wouldn't get above 158* and I had very little heat. I switched back to the 195* and all is back to normal.

 

as bad as NJ weather is i have to agree with the above post, a 195 in winter and 160 in summer. you'll make a few extra hp as long as you can keep the engine cool, like a manual fan switch or second prom to bring the fans on early.

 

I had the 160 thermo put in when I reprogrammed with hypertech. I live in Colorado and have driven it when it was below 20 degrees. I haven't had a problem with heat.

 

you won't have a problem with heat, your problem comes from not having enough of it. in cold weather you want the engine to come up to temp quickly and get to 180-190 deg just to get the moisture out of the oil. i have a 160therm and it's boarderline at 40deg outside, let alone colder.

 

I get good heat, if the fan didnt suck id get alot more. Averages here 40-55F. Although i rarely need to drive it when its colder than 30F.

In 45-55 degree weather, it still gets up to fan temperature (195) but oil stays in the 170-180 range.

 

I get enough heat with the 160 stat to satisfy my me. I've not driven in the real cold, but have had it out in the teens on several occasions.

 

Just thought I'd give you a few of my thoughts on the subject.
This past summer was the first for me, in having a 160* thermostat with four
.200 diameter holes drilled in the housing lip, as suggested by TPiS...for additional cooling during the summer months. Man, that mod works, and works damn good.

So good in fact, that I haven't even changed it out for a 180* thermostat that I run during the winter months (no drilled holes), which I usually do. The engine is purring so good, I just don't want to change a thing.

I thought I would just leave the 160* thermostat in the motor, and just take the Vette out a few times this winter, when the roads are clear.

Problem has been...the days that have been clear...with no moisture on the roads...seem to have been the coldest. I wasn't counting on that.

Twice, the past three weeks, I've taken my Vette out for a 40 minute runs.
With outside temperatures in the twenties...the only way I could get my engine temperature above 160*, was to go thru the gears a time or two, out on the Interstate, and then enjoy a blast of heat for all of a minute,...before the engine began running below 160*...and cold air coming out of the heat ducts.

What was I thinking? (Probably wishing 'spring' was already here).
I wonder how many other forum members have left their 160* thermostat 'in' for the winter months.

Next year, the 180* is going back in. I don't like pulling gears at 6200 RPM's with 'gloves' on. :D

TerryD: I'd suggest you go for the 180* thermostat with the four .200 holes drilled...if your motor isn't modified, and the 160* (with four .200 holes drilled) thermostat, if you've got your engine modified. Your 'chip' should be programmed accordingly.

If not, you'll continue to find your engine temperatures rising in the summer months...especially in stop 'n go traffic.

No need to be skeptical, Terry...many of us have been, where you are at the moment, on this subject.

I can remember, being stuck in very, very, heavy traffic, coming back from Ocean City, Maryland...about 12 summers ago, (before any mods done)...
and pulling off to the side of the road (about 6 times) to let the engine cool down, from the 240*-245* readings I was getting. All I could visualize was the motor cooking, the aluminum heads warping, and the entire engine locking-up.

That was not a pleasant feeling, and I've been running cooler thermostats ever since.

Don't give it a second thought, Terry...go for the cooler thermostat.


[Modified by UDLUV12, 7:41 PM 1/29/2003]

 

When a thermostat reaches the open point and water gains access to a well maintained cooling system, thermal transfer can be quite efficient, especially when the ambient temp is say, below +25F. I once had a thermostat stick OPEN during cold weather engine temp never went above 90F, however it was very cold. The 60 mile trip was no fun. During cold weather, 160F stat, vehicle movement, the thermostat is likely in a continuous cycle mode. Should one have a partially clogged radiator, winter months, it may hit 180 or so, maybe more, hard to say. Summer months, the thermostat opens at the design point, and one can quickly determine if the cooling system is functioning properly. C4 owners typically keep a sharp eye on temps. Cooler day at the drag strip, 160 makes sense. Other days, less so.

dlmeyers 90 coupe zf6 3 speed shocks

 

Please explain how drilling holes in the tstat is a good thing. :eek:

 

I think drilling the thermostat is a horrible idea. I had a 180 stat with (3) .200 holes drilled in it. It flowed way to much water when cold, such that my engine would never get up to temperature. I had trouble keeping it above 130F in 30 degree weather..! and it took a good half hour of driving to get it that far! I finally removed it, and while it was still in the thermostat housing, I put the hose up to it, and it flowed like the kitchen sink.:eek: BTW, the thermostat was closed when I did this test. I also verified the operation of the tstat in pot of water on the stove.

My car only heats up past 180 if I'm idling for quite awhile. It's good to get that oil hot to drive out moisture too. You'd have most problems with condensation living in cold climates, so you should avoid low temp stats.

All drilling does is keep the engine from reaching its operating temp quickly. IMO, the engine should reach its operating temp as soon as possible and stay there.

 

In answering the original poster's question:

Assuming you want your cabin temp at 65 degrees, and you switch from a stock stat to a 160 Undrilled Tstat, you're heating capacity will decrease by 23%. Just turning up the heater fan should easily make up for this.

 

I think I might go w/ 180 degree for rite now, it's too cold up hear!! How's installation on LT1? :chevy

 

The LT1 has a 180 degree Tstat from the factory.

 

this discussion is totally meaningless because some guys are talking about L98 and others are talking LT1. :smash:

my stock LT4 still runs at 200+ with a OE thermastat.

 

Installation on an LT1 is a breeze. Just changed mine to 160Deg. I'm in the south so very little cold weather. Remove the duct BT the TB & Air Filter. Drain coolant from the radiator to below t-stat. Be careful not to get OPTI wet. Radiator drain valve is on right side (you can reach it through wheel well) Remove two bolts on thermostat body, remove and change t-stat with new gasket ring. Install housing and top off coolant. Check for leaks. Be sure to vent system. One vent is right above thermostat and the other is on the drivers side below the TB. Took just a few minutes. Good Luck .. Jim

 

I agree partly... The "I'll show you mine if you show me yours" going on is pointless, but the principles are the same as I mentioned above. Switching to a 160 stat from 180 won't significantly affect your heater.

Just remember, at full open or fully closed, a 160 stat is a 180 stat is a 195 stat.. they're all the same. Changing the tstat will only affect how your car operates between 160 and 195 degrees, give or take 5 degrees. On a hot summer day with the a/c on, your thermostat rating won't make any difference. Drilling holes will help a little, but will cost you in colder temps.

To make your car run cooler after the thermostat is fully open there are 4 basic ways:

Clean your heat transfer surfaces
Increase surface area (by turning on heater, or upgrading radiator
Increase flow (high flow waterpump, or less restrictive thermostat, etc.)
Get more air across the radiator (drive faster or turn on elec fans sooner)
:steering:

 

Drilling the holes in the thermostat (I have done) allows coolant to flow all the time. This allows for a little better flow when conditions are warm, which is good, BUT it delays engine warm up time which is bad & at temperatures below about 50 degress the motor never reachs operating temperature, which is bad.

So I still think a 160 stat is ok to run year round and at least my heater runs fine, BUT a 160 stat or any stat with holes drilled in it is not a very good idea for street use in cold weather since the engine will be very slow in warming up and most likely in real cold weather will never get warm, thus poor heater performance.

 

I changed to a 160 degree thermo this past fall, and will go back to the 180 this spring. Just not enough heat when you want it.
I think the trick is to lower the temp that your cooling fans come on.
On stock motors, the temp rises to 230 degrees plus, which I think is crazy.
I plan on having the fans come on at 190 degrees and off at 180. This can all be done thru the chip. You can adjust this to whatever is comfortable to you. :cheers:

 

i just put in a 160 this past weekend, and I get plenty of heat. the engine hasn't heated up much unless i let it idle for a half hour. but i still get heat on the road. I live in NJ too.