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in an effort to catapult my 89 coupe into the 12s i decided that it was time to swap torque converters. so about 2 weeks ago a friend of mine and i raised the car on jackstands and proceeded to try to remove the trans from the car. this didnt prove to difficult, and in a few hours we were swimming in ATF, but the old converter was out and the new one was pushed into place.
we called it a day at that point. since then ive tryed to put the trans back in myself and cannot get the trans to line up correctly with the engine. it seems the motor tilted back a little bit, making it necessary to angle the trans upon installation. it seems the trans gets hung up on something and wont move once i get it within 1 - 2 inches away from the engine. maybe it just requires someone to push it while i put the bolts in. anyway, my friend is coming back over tomorrow to help me try to align it so i can get this car back on the road. im really getting excited because ive heard a converter swap really wakes up these TPI Vettes of ours. i cant wait to do my first 2500 rpm launch on some unsuspecting stang :D
PS- sorry for the rant, i just had to tell someone the problems ive been dealing with. i figured you Vette guys would understand
No problem on the rant. You can put a jack under the engine's oil pan
with a scrap of wood (plywood or 2x4) between them to raise the back of
the engine some. I think you'd need to do this, and it gives you another
"adjustment" point for lining things up.
The biggest thing though is to make sure the new converter is all the way
in. This is tricky, because when you slide it in it will feel like it engages the
splines on the input shafts a couple of times, but it usually still has one
more "clunk" to go. This is to engage the dogs that drive the pump.
Once you have the converter where you think it's in all the way, grab
the "snout" and lift and push a little while spinning the converter as fast
as you can, and usually after 3-4 revolutions it will fall back another 3/4
inch or so. Now it's in all the way. If you don't get it in all the way, the snout
of the converter will contact the back of the crankshaft before the bellhousing
meets the block, which might explain why you couldn't get the transmission
in all the way.
A good check to use on making sure your convertor is all the way back take a straight edge and lay across the bell housing and measure back to the convertor mounting holes. This should be about 3/4 of an inch. Right before you slide the tranny all the way up visually check it again, because when your jacking around trying to get it in the convertor sometimes moves forward. Another good trick is , as you know the top bell housing bolts are a bear to get to. Swap these out with studs and use nuts to tighten instead of bolts. You won't believe how much easier line up is.
I hope your not disapointed with the convertor. There are a-lot of people who think that a 2500 stall convertor is going to launch you like dumping the clutch at 2500 RPM. This isn't going to happen. depending on your cam, vehicle weight, torque, H/P , ect. you could not even notice any change. Anyway good luck. If you start getting pissed lineing that thing up walk away for while.
The biggest thing though is to make sure the new converter is all the way
in.
:iagree: If you do not ensure the converter is fully in you will get with in a few inches and will stop If you start a Bolt and force it you will here a pop then it will bolt rite up the problem is the pop is when the front pump broke and the trany will then need a New front pump. A TIP I take and cut the head off 2 bolts champher the ends and cut a slot across the top with a hack saw. Then you insert the 2 bolts in the bottom 2 holes on the block and it will help greatly with installing your trany once you start the other bolts just take a flat blade and and remove the screws (thats why I cut the grovce with a hack saw)
Hope this helps Also next time rent a trany Jack they are normaly $5-$10 a day at your local rental place it saves a lot of time and effort.
I agree with jacking the motor up a little under the oil pan, I had to on mine. As for it getting stuck it could be that the TC isn't seated all the way but it sounds like it may just be getting stuck on the guide pins that are on each side of the bell housing. :smash:
im pretty sure the converter is in all the way. ill double check (it never hurts to), but i cant even get the converter to contact the flywheel yet, its stopping a few inches away as if the actual trans is contacting something. it may be different with 2 people working on it, ill find out this weekend when i get some help. i may have to try jacking up the engine a little, it sounds like that will ease the installation.
VIC- the converter in question is the same one you have, a GM 2500 stall out of an S10 truck i believe. the car had even more potential than the 13.20 run it made back in Oct, due to a overly rich condition caused by a exhaust leak right over the O2 sensor. ill have that problem resolved when i finish up the trans and reinstall my MAD ypipe. with the new converter and the TPIS cold air, i should be seeing 12.8s or so at 105 - 106 mph
Make sure that the large cable that runs from the battery across the top of the bell housing/block to the starter has not slipped into the space between the bell housing and the engine block. This has happened to me twice, and is a PITA.