1986 Corvette not cooling down while driving.
Thread Starter
6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2024
Posts: 6
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1986 Corvette not cooling down while driving.
Recently my L1986 corvette stopped cooling down when I'm driving. Normally on my commute home it would probably go to 200 avg and drop to 185 and up to 215 depending on traffic but now even if there's no traffic the car just slightly inches up and up (drops by 5 occasionally when im at a stop light which is different) highest it got was 245 and I pulled over immediately. not sure if any of this is related but I recently had a leaky heater control valve just replaced it literally 5 mins ago it's leaking the TINIEST bit I think I just need to re adjust the hose a tad but it's hot rn. Tried 2 new MAF and got check engine light old one was fine but ran a bit rough now I'm getting code 33 (ordered a new MAF hopefully this one works it's arriving tomorrow I found it off this forum). I believe this has always been an issue for my car but the rad fan doesn't spin even with the A/C or coolant temp getting to 235 but works with paper clip.
Please any suggestions anything to put my mind at ease lol. I've literally never worked on cars before until I got this car so please go easy on me.
Please any suggestions anything to put my mind at ease lol. I've literally never worked on cars before until I got this car so please go easy on me.
Last edited by Satrim373; Apr 23, 2024 at 07:11 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 2,894
Likes: 592
From: New Port Richey FL
Have you looked at the front of radiator underneath the bumper for Walmart bags or general road debris, face it we drive highway Hoovers
Also look between AC and radiator it can get Furry in between there.
Also look between AC and radiator it can get Furry in between there.
Last edited by s carter; Apr 23, 2024 at 10:09 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 62,160
Likes: 1,733
From: Athens AL
C7 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist 2021
C4 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
First, verify the t-stat is opening. At 195F, the stock stat should open. Car temps will hover around that temperature and my cycle there before going upwards again.
Then check that fans are coming on. The main fan is ECM operated and should activate at 228F coolant. If you have the front pusher optional fan, that one is 238F, or about 10 degrees higher. This fan is run on a switch plugged in the drivers side cylinder head.
Look for weeping at the Water Pump.
Check the coolant, stop that leak, burp the system properly. That entails removing the radiator cap and letting the engine get up to t-stat open, at that time you hold the engine at about 2000rpm and the WP will suck down the coolant, this lets all air out of the system, you top off the coolant and replace the cap.
If nothing else is working, you probably have a lot of debris between the radiator and condensor, you cannot see it from the front or under the car. You have to remove the radiator shroud and you'll see all the junk in there blocking the air flow.
Then check that fans are coming on. The main fan is ECM operated and should activate at 228F coolant. If you have the front pusher optional fan, that one is 238F, or about 10 degrees higher. This fan is run on a switch plugged in the drivers side cylinder head.
Look for weeping at the Water Pump.
Check the coolant, stop that leak, burp the system properly. That entails removing the radiator cap and letting the engine get up to t-stat open, at that time you hold the engine at about 2000rpm and the WP will suck down the coolant, this lets all air out of the system, you top off the coolant and replace the cap.
If nothing else is working, you probably have a lot of debris between the radiator and condensor, you cannot see it from the front or under the car. You have to remove the radiator shroud and you'll see all the junk in there blocking the air flow.
