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My drivers side is stuck. I think the hood release was harder to pull than usual and something might have popped. The cables and lever assembly in the car is fine. I can actually see the end of the cable moving back and forth a bit under the hood with a flashlight. It's like the cable is not attached to whatever releases the hood. I made a tool, but I can't get it to pop it open, and I know the end of the tool is right at the end of the cable. Any ideas what to do here?
Thanks, that makes some sense. I feel like I cant get that latch to move, like it's stuck. My tool is only 3/16 round steel bar, and I pushed till it bent. Perhaps my tool just isn't strong enough. I will see if pushing down makes it easier
I am by the ocean, so rust is likely the cause of all this. I was toying with the idea of spraying penetrating lubricant in there. Anyone think that will work?
I purchased this tool a few years back for this purpose. you insert it through the seal at the top front of the door. Insert to the tape, which is about 12 1/2" from the end, and then twist on the latch. The end you insert]is about 1 1/2". Ecklers has a set of instructions and a YouTube video on using it. Good luck.
Once you get it open, I would buy the emergency hood release cables that they sell. They are easy to install and do work.
Here's the one I made. Still trying to get a helper to try the push thing. Does it make sense to put penetrating lube in there? How about hit it with a pressure washer? Tool
That tool looks like it should work. You open the door, slide the tool in at the upper edge under the windshield about 12 1/2 inches with the end facing slightly outward. Once you get it into the latch area you need to rotate the handle outward. The latch releases by moving inward. I think if you watch the youtube video, it will be more apparent of how it works.
I do not know if you could get penetrating fluid in the correct spot with the hood closed. But once you get it open, it wouldn't hurt.
I couldnt get it with the tool blind tbh, it was too hard to feel. I ended up pulling the fender liner and then I had more room to see what my tool was doing.
So the battery is now dead and this is my only ride, so its from bad to much worse. I tried penetrating oil. Didn't do anything. Tried another tool. It seems like the latch doesn't want to move at all. How hard is it to do the driver side by taking the wheel off? Is there anything I need to know? I don't even have a garage to work in, so my situation is difficult. Am I going to be able to reach it? Can you see it?
It stuck for me in my 1984. Sharing my experience, who knows, maybe would be helpful. It was the driver side.
I took off the covers (2-3 items), removed the battery and got access to the latch. It's pretty closed, no access there. Also, I removed the lever from the interior. It didn't help.
Eventually, I ended up prying the wire in the cable with a screwdriver and it eventually opened. After that, I cleaned and greased the mechanism, but the next time it stuck again =) Pried the cable with a screwdriver and it popped. Probably need to adjust the cable length. Pulling the lever from the interior doesn't release the latch fully, so I had to pull the cable extra near the lever. But also it should be possible to move the latch directly by removing the covers under the fender with a removed wheel.
So I gave up and took it to the local classic vette guy, Gold Coast Corvette in Ft Lauderdale area. Very good shop. He said he usually gets them right away, like three twists of the tool. I think it took him 15 mins. It was really stuck. His tool was just like mnmthoele's. Thicker than mine. I think I was pushing on the latch, but mine just wasn't strong enough. It is rusty in there, lots of old cruddy grease. The cable has not moved on that end, but it is way too long. Will be ordering another cable and cleaning it all out. What should I clean and grease it with? Should I adjust it?
definitely clean that up. Unscrew three bolts and you'll see the mechanism in your hands. There is a spring and the latch. I believe it will be obvious what to grease (moving parts between metals).
In my case the latch counterpart was bent, so I hit it a couple times with a hammer to reduce the gap.
The area below the latch was flooded, and the tiny (1/8" ?) drain was clogged (stupid design). Of course that rusted everything, locked it up and then lengthened my cable. I cleaned and greased everything and it all is good except the length of that cable. Looks to be a clusterfuck to replace. What is this electronic thing in the way with big cooling fins? I need to minimize how much of a PITA this job is, as it is getting out of hand and I only have a driveway with 105* heat to work in right now. How do I shorten this cable? Could I just tie a knot in it and put it back? Some sort of crimp?
I decided to cut the old stop off the cable that needed to be shortened, and added two 1/16" stops from home depot. They seem to hold fine. Problem is I should have put it about 1/8" closer, as it isn't quite enough to open it. Is there any adjustment on these cables under the dash side? There is none under the hood on mine.
1994 - Hood stuck
