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Hi y’all, this is my first ever time posting here so forgive me if this post isn’t formatted correctly. I’ve got a 1991 corvette, L98, that I am thinking about tuning. I have zero experience tuning so please try to format your response in a way I can follow and learn. The rpm cam is supposed to reach 6500 rpm’s and this car from my understanding only wants to do about 5-6k. So I think I’ll need an aftermarket computer. Tbh idek what a computer is I just know I’ll need one. Mods/recent fixes listed below, help on what my next step should look like would be much appreciated. I was running 91. I think that’s why the heads blew, gonna move up to 93 or higher.
There’s a good chance I forget something. I’ve put a lot of time, money, and parts into it.
- Edelbrock performance heads
- Edelbrock rpm cam
- Crane roller rockers
- Bored 30 over
- Forged pistons
- New crank shaft
- New high flow oil pump
- New bearings
- New Edelbrock head gaskets
- New wires and plugs
- New fuel pump
- Serviced the heads and got a valve job.
- New Toyo racing tires
Last edited by tcs0110; May 10, 2024 at 10:52 AM.
Reason: Format error.
Your intake may be choking it down. The stock plenums and runners do not flow very well. Pull the ECM and send it out to be recalibrated based on your modifications
So are you wanting to learn and diy? Or have someone else tune it?
I had an entire reply written and this damn website crashed. I want both. I want to learn and have some basic skills, so like another mentioned ecm. I have no idea what that means, what it does, where it is. So explain the tuning terms. And then ultimately I want to have a good, professional tune my car. So the advice I need is what should I do in between now and getting that tune? Because I know the 91 computers aren’t really advanced enough to handle what I want. But I only know that because a mechanic who’s helping me with it told me that. So idk how to fix that issue.
Your intake may be choking it down. The stock plenums and runners do not flow very well. Pull the ECM and send it out to be recalibrated based on your modifications
I have the K and N cold air intake, idk if that changes what you said or not. The plenum came with the head gasket kit if I remember correctly, that’s Edelbrock, at this point most of the engine is Edelbrock, I think there’s a couple crane parts too. Not sure what runners are though, also don’t know what ecm is. Sorry, I’m very new to this world so I’m trying to learn as I go.
I have the K and N cold air intake, idk if that changes what you said or not. The plenum came with the head gasket kit if I remember correctly, that’s Edelbrock, at this point most of the engine is Edelbrock, I think there’s a couple crane parts too. Not sure what runners are though, also don’t know what ecm is. Sorry, I’m very new to this world so I’m trying to learn as I go.
ECM (engine control module)= computer = brain for your fuel injected engine. Controls timing, fuel injectors, cooling fans, etc. 6,500 rpms is not why you need to update/upgrade your tune, you need the ECM calibrated to the new parameters of the changed components. Typically a TPI (L98) is done making the most power long before 6,500 rpms. You've invested a lot of money, make sure you invest in the proper tuning, I would be finding the closest reputable person to do just that, I would not run or drive it anymore than absolutely necessary, until this is done! How about some pictures? Good luck👍
ECM (engine control module)= computer = brain for your fuel injected engine. Controls timing, fuel injectors, cooling fans, etc. 6,500 rpms is not why you need to update/upgrade your tune, you need the ECM calibrated to the new parameters of the changed components. Typically a TPI (L98) is done making the most power long before 6,500 rpms. You've invested a lot of money, make sure you invest in the proper tuning, I would be finding the closest reputable person to do just that, I would not run or drive it anymore than absolutely necessary, until this is done! How about some pictures? Good luck👍
Thank you, that was a very well written response. That helps a lot. A buff and polish is on my list of things to do yet. Paint isn’t awful but could be better. Wheels aren’t stock 91 vette wheels either which some say is a bad thing but whatever I think they look nice. I should note, not all of the work was done by me, like the wheels. Trucks mine too thanks for the help
Because I know the 91 computers aren’t really advanced enough to handle what I want. But I only know that because a mechanic who’s helping me with it told me that
He doesnt know what he's talking about. Its actually amazing how much fidelity is built into an ECM of that vintage with how many fuel and spark parameters there are to customize.
Clearly there are more advanced ECMs. But the 91 ECM is easily able to handle your combo IMO.
With Tunerpro and PROM emulators and ability to patch in a wideband O2 for AFR data recording, ts a very tunable ECM.
He doesnt know what he's talking about. Its actually amazing how much fidelity is built into an ECM of that vintage with how many fuel and spark parameters there are to customize.
Clearly there are more advanced ECMs. But the 91 ECM is easily able to handle your combo IMO.
With Tunerpro and PROM emulators and ability to patch in a wideband O2 for AFR data recording, ts a very tunable ECM.
Very True. I know many people running some huge cubic inch motors in the 9s in 1/4 mile with a 91ECM, heck even older.
Very True. I know many people running some huge cubic inch motors in the 9s in 1/4 mile with a 91ECM, heck even older.
Then on top of it, all the support there still is for it.. like the S_AUJP enhanced bin with even more performance oriented features like VE tables going up to 6400 rpm.
AUJP is for Camaros obviously, but the basic code is the same for Corvettes with just a few parameters changes.
Hi y’all, this is my first ever time posting here so forgive me if this post isn’t formatted correctly. I’ve got a 1991 corvette, L98, that I am thinking about tuning. I have zero experience tuning so please try to format your response in a way I can follow and learn. The rpm cam is supposed to reach 6500 rpm’s and this car from my understanding only wants to do about 5-6k. So I think I’ll need an aftermarket computer. Tbh idek what a computer is I just know I’ll need one. Mods/recent fixes listed below, help on what my next step should look like would be much appreciated. I was running 91. I think that’s why the heads blew, gonna move up to 93 or higher.
There’s a good chance I forget something. I’ve put a lot of time, money, and parts into it.
- Edelbrock performance heads
- Edelbrock rpm cam
- Crane roller rockers
- Bored 30 over
- Forged pistons
- New crank shaft
- New high flow oil pump
- New bearings
- New Edelbrock head gaskets
- New wires and plugs
- New fuel pump
- Serviced the heads and got a valve job.
- New Toyo racing tires
This is the L98 I just built. It's dynoed 463hp and 510 ft.lbs. last week. Dump the tuned port is you want to make any power. Also, the stock heads flow like ****. Even ported, my 113 heads flowed almost 100 cfm LESS than my budget FloTek 200cc heads. Stock block 350 (L98) 9.5:1 compression. New .001 undersized tri-metal bearings (clevite). Standard bore with stock pistons. New standard bore moly rings (speed pro).
One thing I may add, if using an automatic, find a very very good builder. Not sure if Rossler still builds them, but ProBuilt is very good.
700R4/4L60s are weak above 400rwhp
Another question for all y’all. I’ve got some people saying I NEED to tune it before driving it and especially before racing her. I’ve got some people saying I can give her hell right away without a tune, but to expect less power than what my parts are capable of. So my other question is, do I NEED to tune it before testing the build? Will I cause damage if I don’t?
Get a tune prior to starting it. Might as well get it done right. Dont want the engine to wash cylinders down with too much fuel, if it says it needs it etc.
Many great tuners can get you very close so all you will need is to fine tune it with a lot of data logging.