redc412345

Hi, I’m attempting to do my first ever cam install. I’ve done a bunch of research, and here’s my plan. I want 350whp, something not too aggressive, and a good low and middle end power/torque curve. I had wanted to do the heads, but my timeframe does not allow me to do that. I want to do as little custom work as possible, like I want to keep my stock valve covers (though I may need to cut out the baffle on them while retaining the center bolt area. I know I need a tune, headers, and valve springs. The rest may be necessary?
Here is my exact list so far-
CC 503 cam Hydraulic Roller Tappet Advertised Duration 276/281, Lift .503/.510 114LSA (need to grind dowel to fit)
Crane valve spring 10308 dual spring
Comp 1.6” NSA narrow 7/16” pro mags(need to clear stock valve cover)
guideplates? (I’ve heard of issues clearing head bolts with these)
ARP 7/16” rocker studs
7.2” chromoly pushrods
Long tube headers
Tune

Does this sound like 350whp is achievable with this setup? Can I go with 1.5” rockers or are the 1.6” necessary? (Again I don’t want clearance issues)
Thanks for any help!

Incorvettei

350 at the wheels? No way! Not without making it breath better. New heads, ported and polished or replacement intake. Etc

mike1111

what heads and intake manifold? good rocker arms don't really add HP. most likely need ported head or new heads

84 4+3

Since you are talking about grinding the dowel I'm going to assume this isn't an LT car. So I'll be blunt and say there is no way you are touching 350 hp either at the wheels or crank with only that cam... even on an LT engine... you'd have to do some other work to see 350 I'd say... sorry...

icsamerica

With a 224/230 cam and the other mods, you'll get to 350HP. I see it this way...
300 HP to start wth...
+25 HP in the cam
+20 HP in the long tubes,
+10 HP in the tune, at least.
+20 HP with a proper no baffel 2.5 nch exhaust wth X pipe.

The LT1 stock tune is very lean at WOT to save the converters, and it can also take +2 degrees of timing. There is some power to be found in the tune.
If you have an auto I'd also do a converter with that cam, it wll be soggy under 3500. Stick with a cam in the 218 range wth a tigher 112 LSA if auto with a stock converter.

7/16 studs are a great idea and pushrod length has to be measured carfully. Proper setup is important to get the correct arch swing of the rocker.
I think on the Lt1 heads you cant run guide plate and need self aligning rockers.

mike1111

stock head flow
LIFT: INTAKE: EXHAUST:
.100 59 44
.200 121 98
.300 169 127
.400 200 149
.500 203 160
.550 202 160
anything past .500 lift is useless
this is why people port heads

redc412345

Hey everyone, thanks for the replies.
I had completely forgotten to list the specs of my car. 1992 LT1 ZF6, 3.55 rear. Borla catback is the only mod currently.
I went with the CC503. I got 1605 springs, 7.2” chromoly pushrods (I have a length checker but that should be right) CC 1.6RR, and guideplates. I still need to pick out some headers, but I’ll do that when I finish and know the car runs properly. I know I should get the heads ported, but my timeframe at the moment doesn’t allow me to do that. Maybe something I can do this winter. Hopefully it’ll be suitable for now, and I’ve got a majority of the parts needed already if I decide to upgrade further. (Minus ported heads and bigger cam)
Also, I need to look around in the New England area to see if there’s anyone reputable that can dynotune the car. I’ve read a mail tune will work, but I’d prefer to spend the money specific to my setup.