For those of you with the LT1 Corvettes and have rotational play in the steering, I've repaired mine without having to buy any parts.

There are plenty of posts about the earlier C4 Vettes which use the concentric shafts with the pin, but I couldn't find any posts about the ones using a normal rag joint on the intermediate shaft.
The rag joint is non-serviceable on these cars as it is assembled with the lower u-joint. It's a good idea to make sure your steering play is coming from the rag joint before attempting to remove it. The procedure for removing it is cramped and not fun.
If you have big hands... good luck.

Here was my procedure, which closely follows the 1995 service manual

1. Disconnect the battery. My steering shaft has +12 volts going to it... I don't know if this is intended, but it certainly surprised me when it sparked against my ratchet.
2. Remove the idler pulley. You can remove the bolt first, then slide the pulley off its mount. This was easy, and I did not need to loosen the belt tension to do so.
3. Viewing down from the gap between the radiator and the alternator, you should be able to see the steering shaft and its protective plastic housing. Using a 1/4 inch socket and several extensions, you should be able to loosen the hose clamp holding the plastic housing to the steering rack. Slide the plastic housing toward the firewall to expose the pinch bolt.
4. Remove the pinch bolt. You may need to turn the steering wheel in order to get a socket over it. Its 11mm.
5. Now remove the other bolt on the shaft. This is located near the firewall, close to the brake lines and brake booster. Again, you may want to turn the wheel to make the bolt head accessible. 12mm socket.
6. Now, with both bolts removed, remove your key and lock the steering wheel in place. Do not turn the wheel as it can disturb the airbag wiring.
7. At this point the shaft is ready to be removed from the car, but it's a good idea to spray a lubricant on both ends of the shaft where the bolts were.
8. Slide the firewall side of the shaft off of the column. It is only captured on three sides (The bolt was the fourth). It should be very easy to remove. Do not apply excessive pressure toward the firewall with the shaft. The steering column is collapsible and the 30+ year old plastic pins will break easier than you think.
9. With the firewall side free, the rack side should now be able to slide off. I used a large screwdriver to separate the shaft from the housing.
10. With the shaft free, you should be able to remove it by pulling it up through the gap between the master cylinder and the ASR box.

First thing I did with the shaft out was clean it with brake clean and mark the orientation of the rag joint with a sharpie. Was able to tell that the rag joint was bad just from looking at it.
Now, I'm sure there are several better ways to go about repairing it, but here it what I did. I used a piece of 1/4" all thread and wedged it between the rag joint and back-up plate:



I seriously doubt this piece of thread would ever come out, it was wedged in there extremely tight, but I still put a very small weld on both sides and hit it with some paint:


With this all completed, I reversed the procedure. Unfortunately, I could not get that plastic protective housing back on (Step 3.). I fought that thing for an hour but couldn't get it back in place, so I left it out.
My steering feels amazing now, I used to have over an inch of backlash in the wheel, now I have none that I can tell.

I hope this helps

 

Been a few discussions on it.

 

I did the same as imaged above, years ago. I believe the machined joint came from Evil Engineering, made for an F body, fit the Vette just fine.

 

My 93 Fbody has a raggedy joint. Maybe this will work. Thanks for the fix idea.