Wrench time to remove diff housing from car?
I'm wanting to swap 4.11's for my 3.45's, and I've found what sounds like the most reputable shop in my area EXCEPT that they refuse to remove diff assy's from Corvettes! They've quoted a fair price for the new gears and labor ($640), but then I'd be stuck with taking the diff assembly off the car. How long would this take???
Thanks!
Thanks!
Depends a lot of your exhaust system, frankly. If your system is bolted together and not welded from the cat back, you should be able to do it in about 2 hours (including getting the car up on jack stands) Make sure you have a 21mm open end and socket for the torque arm (I know a lot of people don't get wrenches that big in the sets you buy from Sears or something). If you have someone that can put the trans in and out of gear for you while you rotate the driveshaft or wrench against it (U-joint strap bolts), it saves a lot of time. It's not really that hard to do, just sometimes aggravating. Make sure you have a jack to put under the trans, and one for under the diff (the diff isn't that heavy, but it sure is convenient to have a jack to move it).
Hey Seattle 6 speed- I am in Lynnwood! Where are you taking it? If it was the place I had my 3.73's done at, I would tell you to stay away. My gears are making more noise than I would like and the pinion seal is already leaking (only about 10 months old). Also, ask what their warrantee situation is. I supplied all my own parts, and since I did that, I have no warrantee (even though I provided parts superior to what they wanted to install), so I have to fix the seal myself, even though I know damn well they would have used the same Timken install kit.
On the subject of exhaust, it took me about an hour to remove my exhaust because the bolts on the driver side were very stubborn, as was the "slip-fit" on the passenger side. Definately use some liquid wrench on the bolts on the driver side where the exhaust mates with the cat and your life will be a little more enjoyable.
The rest of the job really is not that bad, just keep tract of where everything goes. I like to put hardware from each major assembly in a paper lunch bag and I write with a black sharpie what they are on the bag.
If you need some help, let me know since I've done it before and I'm local.
Mike
Good luck!
Mike
On the subject of exhaust, it took me about an hour to remove my exhaust because the bolts on the driver side were very stubborn, as was the "slip-fit" on the passenger side. Definately use some liquid wrench on the bolts on the driver side where the exhaust mates with the cat and your life will be a little more enjoyable.
The rest of the job really is not that bad, just keep tract of where everything goes. I like to put hardware from each major assembly in a paper lunch bag and I write with a black sharpie what they are on the bag.
If you need some help, let me know since I've done it before and I'm local.
Mike
Good luck!
Mike
Mike,
The place I'm talking about is Randy's Ring & Pinion in Everett. They have a website http://www.randysringandpinion.com if you wanna check them out. They came highly recommended in a recent issue of Chevy Rumble magazine (musclecar mag). I would anticipate that the exhaust would be the PITA of the job, just depends how "lucky" you get.
Anyway, thanks for the input... and just wondering, where'd you have your's done?
Oh, and I'm in West Seattle.
[Modified by Seattle 6spd, 9:39 AM 2/1/2003]
The place I'm talking about is Randy's Ring & Pinion in Everett. They have a website http://www.randysringandpinion.com if you wanna check them out. They came highly recommended in a recent issue of Chevy Rumble magazine (musclecar mag). I would anticipate that the exhaust would be the PITA of the job, just depends how "lucky" you get.
Anyway, thanks for the input... and just wondering, where'd you have your's done?
Oh, and I'm in West Seattle.
[Modified by Seattle 6spd, 9:39 AM 2/1/2003]
I knew it... Becareful with them. I took mine to RRP as well. Some people swear by them and some people swear AT them. My experience was not the best. I mean they did their job in a very timely manner, but the noise issue and the leaking pinion seal really sucks. Also I paid about 140 less for my install last spring, but perhaps you are having more done, or the Dana 44 just costs more to setup than the Dana 36 (that is what I have).
Apparently there is some history behind either the owner or the company, either he or the company was basically run out of California to be reestablished here. I have also talked to others that could not recommend them, but there are not too many shops around that do have experience like they do... I would say about the only other places I would try are those shops that setup race cars. They would have a lot of R&P setup experience one would think.
Mike
Apparently there is some history behind either the owner or the company, either he or the company was basically run out of California to be reestablished here. I have also talked to others that could not recommend them, but there are not too many shops around that do have experience like they do... I would say about the only other places I would try are those shops that setup race cars. They would have a lot of R&P setup experience one would think.
Mike
Well crud, I thought Randy's was THE place to go. Thanks for sharing your experience. Don't know why Dana rearends would be any different than others, but the tech I talked to from there didn't seem real pleased to be working on a Corvette. ??? Whatever.
Know any other shops around here that come highly recommended?
Know any other shops around here that come highly recommended?
They've quoted a fair price for the new gears and labor ($640), but then I'd be stuck with taking the diff assembly off the car. How long would this take???
Thanks!
Thanks!
I don't see why they would be so against taking the diff. out and back in, as it appears it's only approx. 120.00 in labor, it can't be that hard.
The thing is Randy's does a lot (A LOT) of ring and pinions, mostly on trucks. Their unwillingness to pull the rear is because you are would be occupying a host for a whole day, when they could be doing more trucks which go a lot quicker. Not to mention pulling the rear of a Vette out is harder work then what they are used to. I would chalk it up to laziness.
I would still give them a try, my one account does not mean they are bad. My driveshaft is a little out of balance (I get a harmonic vibration around 65-80), so that for 10k miles could have caused the problem just as easily...
Mike
I would still give them a try, my one account does not mean they are bad. My driveshaft is a little out of balance (I get a harmonic vibration around 65-80), so that for 10k miles could have caused the problem just as easily...
Mike
Thanks to all for the input. Before I'd even called this place I figured this job would be $1000, so at least it's cheaper than expected.
With Randy's it's just frustrating that they won't do the whole job. Maybe I just talked to the wrong tech on a Friday afternoon. ??? I flipped through my latest Corvette Fever mag last night and noticed they have TWO ads in there catering to Vettes. :bs
With Randy's it's just frustrating that they won't do the whole job. Maybe I just talked to the wrong tech on a Friday afternoon. ??? I flipped through my latest Corvette Fever mag last night and noticed they have TWO ads in there catering to Vettes. :bs
When I first contacted them, they did quote removing the rear for me, but that was an extra $800 in labour. Now that is a pile of :bs
When I called back to firm things up, they then said they would not pull the rear, and it did sound like someone else.
Oh well, good luck!
When I called back to firm things up, they then said they would not pull the rear, and it did sound like someone else.
Oh well, good luck!
You guys really scare me. $120 labor to remove/replace the differential sounds reasonable. If someone had quoted me $800 labor I wouldn't take anything to that guy, period. Even if he offered to do it for free later. And a place that advertizes it works on vette rear ends but then haves a bunch of caveats on what they do/don't do just sounds like a place that has found out vette owners are gullible (sp?). Working on truck rearends is one thing, vette (or any passenger car) rearend is something else again. I haven't set up a vette ring/pinion but have done others and all it usually takes is some patience, a few wrenches, a dial indicator, some gear paint, the factory manual and something to hold the housing. But then again I do all my own wrenching because years of experience says to buy the tools, learn, and only blame yourself if it goes wrong. Stay away from the places that think they are doing you a favor to work on your vette.









