Ok, is a turbo a turbo, I mean, if you used a turbo from a Diesel engine, is it the same as one from a gasoline engine?

The reason I am asking is there are many turbo diesel engines at the wreckers, and if I find one that is relatively new and well known, could I just use that?


Thanks
:cheers:

 

as far as i know you will be running alotmore boost!

 

Some of the diesel turbos use a different type of oil seal. It's typically not a problem though unless it's a draw through desing. It's relatively inexpensive to chang them though if necessary.

Just my opnion, but I'd definitely recommend a TO4 based turbo. There are alot more automotive options available, and parts are easily obtainable, interchangeable, and relatively inexpensive.

 

My dad drives a Semi and told me once he saw the meter go to 16PSI Boost, and this is on like a 12.4L inline 6 and you'll try to put it on a SBC? Wow you lost your marbels, :crazy: well unless you get a bobcat Diesel Turbo, those things are small, but I dont know how much power you'll make with them. :rofl:

 

since your in my field , i'll give you my .2. first , theyre are numerous turbos on different diesels. from 8" across to 18". the amount of boost they make will depend on they're size. for example, a turbo on a cummins n-14 makes 30 psi boost, but on you car will probably make none. the size of the impeller is so massive that your gasoline engine will probably hardly be able to turn it. another factor is cost. say you did find one that will work relatively well on your car, the replacement cost for these turbos arent cheap. anywhere from $650. to $1100. i agree that getting off a few bucks for a properly sized t-o4 is your best bet. if your dead set on a scrapped diesel turbo, one from a cummins 6b or an international dt466 may work, or or it may not. its your time and money.

 

monty, i have a question . did you make your turbo headers or buy them ? if you bought them , where? i want to do that to mine. :eek:

 

You know your right, I heard that the old turbos had Lag because they are so massiv, but now they got new ones that have lighter material and can spool up much quicker. So If you do get a wrecked Turbo it would be hard to get a new technology incorperated one, thats what I think. Also you could just get some small turbos that would work great with your car for likr $475-600 depending on how much power you want :crazy: Why mess around with something that huge? Plus the big ones are pretty heavy, and the headers to support them are pretty freakin thick too. Funnything is when a Truck somes from a day of driving you would think that the turbo would be hot, but if you touch the inlet side its pretty cool compared to the exhuast side :yesnod:

 

contact precision turbos. you can get the PT52s for 650 that will handle 1200+ HP ez. tough to build the engine to handle what they would put out.

even the stock buick v6 tubos are cheap and a pair should get you around 850 or more and you can pick them up in good shape cheap. they are a pretty decent turbo and have an integral wastgate.

I might just use a pair of them to check them out. a few TT v6 buicks have been build that made an ez 800 hp with a pair of them.

cya.

 

I made them with the assistance of a chassis shop, that builds alot of racecars for NMCA/NSCA and NMRA. He helped me design it, cut the tubing and tack it all together. We used 16 gauge 321 stainless materials and collectors from Burn's Stainless and Specialty Products Designs, I had the flanges EPD cut from 3/8" 321 s.s plate. I then finished all the welding at home with a TIG, polished them, and then had them ceramic coated.

When I first started the project last winter, I had just bought a Lincoln 175 Pro Squarwave TIG and wasn't confident yet in my welding skills. Appearance and durability were/are very important to me so I felt at the time that I'd get better results, as well as learn how to do it from an experienced pro.

It's actually very easy, but it can seem intimidating at first. TIG welding stainless steel is relatively easy, patience and rhythm is the key to the "row of coins" appearance. You want your welds to be gold or copper colored, not dark, grey or speckled. It's tempting for a beginning welder to use too much heat/amps. Also, anytime you are welding stainless, you should back-gas the weld or use Solarflux. If you don't, the backside of the weld (the inside of the tubing), will get contaminated from the air and "sugar" up. The result is a weaker weld which would be alot more prone to thermal fatigue and cracking than a proper weld.

Also, when you are making your headers, it's alot easier to ensure a good quality weld around the entire circumference of the tube if you don't weld the primary tube to the cylinder head flange and collector until you are done. After you have the primary's built and tacked, remove the primary tubes from the collector and head flange, weld the primary's on the welding table, back gassing them, then reassemble the primary's back into the flanges and collector and weld them into place.


Good luck!