Warped Superram Lid
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Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 90
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From: St Louis
Warped Superram Lid
In the process of dry fitting my Superram intake, and while it's relatively straightforward, the lid seems to be the old cast type that was notorious for leaking without a tube's worth of RTV sealing it. Placing it on the plenum and a flat surface to check, it definitely "bounces". Pushing one end flush raises the other end about 1/16 to 1/8 an inch. From what I read you used to be able to exchange these with Accel for a billet lid, but I don't think that's an option anymore...
The only options I can think of are to either deck the whole lid surface flat, or drill and tap an extra set of holes and double the screw count, doing what the prototype Superram did with its lid. Do either of these seem like viable solutions?
The only options I can think of are to either deck the whole lid surface flat, or drill and tap an extra set of holes and double the screw count, doing what the prototype Superram did with its lid. Do either of these seem like viable solutions?
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 17,699
Likes: 1,667
From: moraga ca
I ran a SuperRam for years. I rtv'd the lid down and didn't touch it during many teardowns. I accessed the bolts from below. As mentioned, the lid should tighten down when the bolts are tightened.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 3,715
Likes: 551
From: Seattle Washington
I put grease on my Gasket so that it wouldn't tear when I remove the Lid. It has the Bolts spaced close enough together that it could be warped pretty badly and still be tightened down and seal. OK so let's say that it is going to leak. Obviously, its going to be a minor leak at best. The Throttle Blades when closed have a bypass hole which is basically just an engineered leak to let the engine idle. The ECM should be able to compensate for a minor leak. When using a bigger Camshaft to get the engine to idle one might need to adjust the Throttle Blades to be open a bit anyway. When the engine is idling pull the Brake Booster Hose off which creates a huge leak. The ECM will stumble till it figures out what happened and then it will compensate but it should keep running. The last Autocross I did I made one lap and just looked things over and realized my Brake Booster was not hooked up. (Engine ran fine brakes not) OK let's say it a Boosted engine. Now you have Air leaking out when under Boost rather than in. Since the Air leaking is before the Injectors then it shouldn't cause an under-hood explosion. It does make one wonder how much Boost it can take before bulging it's a pretty large flat surface.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 931
Likes: 165
In the process of dry fitting my Superram intake, and while it's relatively straightforward, the lid seems to be the old cast type that was notorious for leaking without a tube's worth of RTV sealing it. Placing it on the plenum and a flat surface to check, it definitely "bounces". Pushing one end flush raises the other end about 1/16 to 1/8 an inch. From what I read you used to be able to exchange these with Accel for a billet lid, but I don't think that's an option anymore...
The only options I can think of are to either deck the whole lid surface flat, or drill and tap an extra set of holes and double the screw count, doing what the prototype Superram did with its lid. Do either of these seem like viable solutions?
The only options I can think of are to either deck the whole lid surface flat, or drill and tap an extra set of holes and double the screw count, doing what the prototype Superram did with its lid. Do either of these seem like viable solutions?
