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I have now blown up 2 transmission with both of them making it less than 200 miles.
The first transmission lasted about 200 miles and had to be pulled because of a grinding noise in first and reverse (rear planetary gears broke). The builder warrantied the transmission and said it could have been due to improper cooler flow (even though I bought an external beefy cooler) so I decided to go back to the factory radiator cooling setup that I know flows fine.
The second transmission I just got done installing earlier this week and was driving great and shifting much better than the last one did. But after about 80 miles or so I have now lost 2nd gear and OD (I'm assuming the 2-4 band is toast). Shifts were firm, shift points seemed great under partial and WOT.
Is there something I could completely be messing up on install to keep having these failures or does it seem like the builder is not doing something? Fluid level was perfect and TV adjustment felt pretty good, if anything a notch too high.
Is the builder prepared to do the NEXT build 'no charge' and include 'no charge' the required hard parts? The suggestion of 'another/different builder' is certainly understandable. Will this builder provide any form of restitution for their failed builds?
He did rebuild the first one for me after a lot of work to get into contact with him because he "got a new phone number". He didn't charge me for anything, however I have had to pull and bring the transmission to him 1 hour away, and reinstall it each time (kind of a pain in the *** because I'm a full time college student).
I haven't reached out to him yet about this one, however my transmission was one of the last ones he built before he retired and closed shop, so im not sure ill get any sort of help... That is why I'm trying to figure out how these catastrophic failures could have happened before I go harassing him and pointing fingers, but as with the research I have done so far it seems like a poor rebuild job unfortunately.
I bought brand new lines and cooler both times to make sure this wasn't an issue.
Being young, you can be given some leeway but buying new lines and cooler(not once but TWICE) based on a WAG from (it sounds like) a hack builder, is not a wise use of your money. If indeed it was from a lack of lube the first time, there would be other failed parts. The lube flow is not selective. Why buy these parts again after 200 miles??? It is more likely he did not closely inspect the planets/ring/sun for tooth faults and/or rocking on the planet axles. One thing to remember is that there is a vast difference between a shop advertising "rebuilt" or "remanufactured". A shady shop is only going to replace the absolute necessary parts with a new paper, rubber and seals kit. If it is "remanufactured" all parts are supposed to be brought up to factory specs. Regardless, there is still nothing stopping a shop from pumping out a redone trans and rolling the dice of their warranty period. Since you have lost 2nd and 4th, do you hear a ratcheting sound? Do you have reverse?
Being young, you can be given some leeway but buying new lines and cooler(not once but TWICE) based on a WAG from (it sounds like) a hack builder, is not a wise use of your money. If indeed it was from a lack of lube the first time, there would be other failed parts. The lube flow is not selective. Why buy these parts again after 200 miles??? It is more likely he did not closely inspect the planets/ring/sun for tooth faults and/or rocking on the planet axles. One thing to remember is that there is a vast difference between a shop advertising "rebuilt" or "remanufactured". A shady shop is only going to replace the absolute necessary parts with a new paper, rubber and seals kit. If it is "remanufactured" all parts are supposed to be brought up to factory specs. Regardless, there is still nothing stopping a shop from pumping out a redone trans and rolling the dice of their warranty period. Since you have lost 2nd and 4th, do you hear a ratcheting sound? Do you have reverse?
No ratcheting sound at all, just so much slippage that if feels like 2nd doesn't even exist and wont go into 4th. Also jumps down from 3rd to 1st when coming to a stop.
Also I used this builder based on recommendation from a guy who builds LT1 caprice/impalas and races them, and my high school Auto Tech teacher know him personally so I was under the impression he wasn't a hack builder and a trustworthy guy.
DIY time to learn what failed and how to prevent it. I would be curious about how the bushings look, end play correct, old 2-4 band used, how is 3-4 stack assembled, pump internals, etc etc
Buy an ATSG book. Read it. The 700R4 or 4L60E is simple to do. The hydraulics are key, hardpart assy is simple.
Not flushing the lines and cooler was not smart, but too late now. LUBE GUARD makes an excellent flush.
DIY time to learn what failed and how to prevent it. I would be curious about how the bushings look, end play correct, old 2-4 band used, how is 3-4 stack assembled, pump internals, etc etc
Buy an ATSG book. Read it. The 700R4 or 4L60E is simple to do. The hydraulics are key, hardpart assy is simple.
Not flushing the lines and cooler was not smart, but too late now. LUBE GUARD makes an excellent flush.
Why was not flushing the lines and cooler a bad idea? New AN lines are about $30-$40, and I was told by the builder that it could have possibly been improper cooler flow from the external cooler ( which I don't think that was the issue that caused the planetary gears to fail, however im not going to risk it by installing the same cooler again). Id rather spend the extra money and not have to worry about if i got every bit of junk out of the cooler.
So you ran new lines or not? External cooler, yes no issues. They flow the same via their inputs in my experience.
I did not understand what you stated over the posts. So please tell me what I missed. Not trying to be a dick. I have been rolled twice about 25 yrs back by junk trans shops, vowed to teach myself how to reman them and did
No ratcheting sound at all, just so much slippage that if feels like 2nd doesn't even exist and wont go into 4th. Also jumps down from 3rd to 1st when coming to a stop.
Also I used this builder based on recommendation from a guy who builds LT1 caprice/impalas and races them, and my high school Auto Tech teacher know him personally so I was under the impression he wasn't a hack builder and a trustworthy guy.
Life is a learning experience. As Horatio Caine used to say "Trust but verify".
In 2024 lots of parts are not made well, especially those from China. About 10 yrs ago I was helping evaluate a cooler that was going to be a part of the solution to the overheating LLY Duramax diesels. I forget right now the name of the company, however the president hand delivered me a sample when he and his wife had flown in for a Summit Racing show.
I looked down in one side and discovered that the Chinese had all but blocked off the vertical return tube by the cross tubes not being trimmed to the correct length. One side was correct,
the other incorrect. I shipped the cooler back to the folks and they had to tighten up their inspection and quality control, they didn't know how bad the parts were. They were a major name.
So inspect your parts just to make sure.
FWIW, my buddy trashed a 700R4 because the shop didn't set the TV cable correctly. I set it after the fact for him, but the damage was already done. It didn't take long from leaving the shop for the transmission to go.
In 2024 lots of parts are not made well, especially those from China. About 10 yrs ago I was helping evaluate a cooler that was going to be a part of the solution to the overheating LLY Duramax diesels. I forget right now the name of the company, however the president hand delivered me a sample when he and his wife had flown in for a Summit Racing show.
I looked down in one side and discovered that the Chinese had all but blocked off the vertical return tube by the cross tubes not being trimmed to the correct length. One side was correct,
the other incorrect. I shipped the cooler back to the folks and they had to tighten up their inspection and quality control, they didn't know how bad the parts were. They were a major name.
So inspect your parts just to make sure.
FWIW, my buddy trashed a 700R4 because the shop didn't set the TV cable correctly. I set it after the fact for him, but the damage was already done. It didn't take long from leaving the shop for the transmission to go.
In my opinion, a maladjusted TV cable is the major reason for 700R4/4L60 failure. The largest contributing factor is that a large portion of DIYer's don't have a clue what it is or what it does or the proper name for it and they spend too much time listening to Bubba instead of educating themselves with factory literature. Some call it a kickdown cable. Some call it a passing gear cable. Some call it a detent cable.(unbelievably, I have actually seen so-called automotive publications call them this) It is none of those. It is a TV(throttle valve cable). Its primary function is to increase line pressure in response to load and throttle position. It is not to be used for shift calibration. On these trans, you use the governor for that. As an example, on a transmission that actually does have a "kickdown cable or lever" you can disconnect it and beat on the transmission like a pedo in a park and nothing bad will happen. Disconnect the TV cable and do the same thing. Let me know how you make out.
So you ran new lines or not? External cooler, yes no issues. They flow the same via their inputs in my experience.
I did not understand what you stated over the posts. So please tell me what I missed. Not trying to be a dick. I have been rolled twice about 25 yrs back by junk trans shops, vowed to teach myself how to reman them and did
Do you have an actual parts/upgrade list?
Not sure if you’re mixing me and other relies up, but I posted above “I bought brand new lines and cooler both times to make sure this wasn't an issue.”
Also I will try to find and attach a picture of what “parts list” i was given, although it is pretty basic.